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Harbor Freight tools?

E

Eric Friedman

Joined
Dec 24, 2024
Messages
18
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25
Location
Berkeley, CA
I've been very happy with my Carter and Son tools. But I've had a few occasions where I've needed to turn a spindle and I don't have a roughing gouge for that. So I've been knocking corners off on the bandsaw and doing the rest with a bowl gouge and a lot of sharpening.

Given how infrequently I do this, I was wondering if the Harbor Freight gouge is of acceptable quality? Their set is about $50 and also includes other tools I don't have. if they aren't TERRIBLE, I figure I could use them for a while and then step up if I find the need.

Thanks for your help
 
I have the HSS set - specifically for the SRG. It works just fine. Since I use it on a lot of bark covered spindle blanks, I don’t mind having to sharpen it all the time.

I then re-ground the other tools into various “specialty” tools. I put an asymmetric grind on the gouge (I think it’s a spindle gouge) and really like that grind (see Richard Raffan and Tomi Tomasic videos).
 
Harbor Freight has been working hard to improve its image in recent years. Most of the tools they sell today are a step or two above what they sold five years ago. The 20% coupons and free flashlights and free scissors are not often seen anymore. What they sell now may be less expensive than premium brands, but in most cases they are good quality.

If you decide to buy carbon steel turning tools, realize that they should not be used on CBN grinding wheels. The CBN wheels should be reserved for high speed steel.
 
I’m with @Dean Center, ben’s best from PSI are the best value tools these days. A lot of the cheaper tools that used to be m2 are now “hi speed steel” which could be various grades, all lesser grade for turning vs m2. The BB’s are still m2.

I still use tools from an HF set from ~15 yrs ago (have maroon colored handles, I think they were “Windsor” brand) that are m2 and work pretty well, but havent been available for 5+ yrs.

IUse a 5/8” shaft bowl gouge vs srg most of the time for roughing > ~3” spindle blanks, and definitely if bark is involved. With a long wing grind, using a slicing pull cut, a bg will rough things down quickly.
 
Ric Taylor said:
Harbor Freight has been working hard to improve its image in recent years. Most of the tools they sell today are a step or two above what they sold five years ago. The 20% coupons and free flashlights and free scissors are not often seen anymore. What they sell now may be less expensive than premium brands, but in most cases they are good quality.

If you decide to buy carbon steel turning tools, realize that they should not be used on CBN grinding wheels. The CBN wheels should be reserved for high speed steel.
Click to expand...
Why not carbon steel on CBN?
 
Mark Jundanian said:
High carbon steel clogs the CBN wheels. HSS does not.
Click to expand...
It sure does, but if you soak the wheel in diesel overnight, you can clean it with a toothbrush. I do this once or twice a year because I have two really good skews and a scraper that are carbon steel that I sharpen on my cbn. Not recommended I agree, but it works for me. Finebuy tools are relatively inexpensive M2 and have really good reviews. https://www.findbuytool.com/collections/traditional-woodturning-tools
 
Tim Mortimer said:
It sure does, but if you soak the wheel in diesel overnight, you can clean it with a toothbrush. I do this once or twice a year because I have two really good skews and a scraper that are carbon steel that I sharpen on my cbn. Not recommended I agree, but it works for me. Finebuy tools are relatively inexpensive M2 and have really good reviews. https://www.findbuytool.com/collections/traditional-woodturning-tools
Click to expand...
Thanks for your suggestion. I'm afraid my original tools are carbon steel. I checked for some other tools I recently purchased; shows high speed steel. Thanks for the link, too.
Note: Harbor Freight tools are now listed a high speed steel.
 
The Bauer set is hss and not too bad.
Click to expand...
That's good to know. Most of my tools are for bowl turning, but I occasionally have to turn a spindle (rolling pins and tool handles). I'll take a look next time I'm in there.

The 20% coupons and free flashlights and free scissors are not often seen anymore.
Click to expand...
If you are on their e-mail list, you get them on a regular basis.

I have been gradually transferring my disorganized supplies to HF storage boxes. I now have two of the large boxes filled with my 2" sanding disks in custom 3D-printed bins sized to fit the discs and the storage box. All of my paints, gilding, and embellishing supplies are in others. No more wasting time trying to find things.

1769705060602.png
 
For cleaning your CBN wheels of built up soft metal, you can continue to sharpen HSS tools and it will eventually remove most of the build up. If you are in a hurry, then if you have an old aluminum oxide wheel around you can apply that to the spinning wheel. It does a fair job. It does make a LOT of dust.... Once, on an old wheel that was almost worn out, I intentionally loaded it up with copper, aluminum, brass, and soft steel. It left big lines on the wheel. After another month, all visible signs were gone.

I still don't trust the quality of Harbor Freight tools, mostly because of what they "used" to be, which was pretty much junk. They have tried to improve their image lately. I still would opt for a single SRG. Most of the time when you buy a "set" of tools, you will use one or two, and then the rest gather dust. If you need a skew, then by all means get the set. Even little old bowl turner me uses the skew chisel....

robo hippy
 
There's more to consider when shopping for low priced gouges than just the steel. The Hurricane tools were an example where the collar of wood around the base of the gouge was so thin that breakage was very possible. (disclaimer: I haven't looked at Hurricane Tools in a couple years, so this may be different, now) Others here on the forum have pointed out that some of the lower priced tools aren't hardened the full length of the tool, so when you get past the first inch or two, you may have 'soft' steel. The flute shape on the lower priced tools, including Benjamin's Best, will be an unknown and may be less than ideal.

With a sharpening jig and a little coaching, it's pretty easy to learn to take off a small amount of steel with each trip, so I've come around to thinking that an M2 gouge from a name brand supplier may be the best way for beginner's to start. (Taylor, Crown, Hamlet, Sorby on sale)
 
John Torchick said:
Why not carbon steel on CBN?
Click to expand...

Sharpening hardened High carbon steel tools on CBN wheels
You CAN sharpen "high" carbon steel tools on CBN if you keep one thing in mind: do not overheat the edge. If overheated, the steel loses it's hardness and gets softer, bad for woodturning and bad for CBN wheels. If the edge of the wood gets into purple and to blue the edge is shot. (For comparison HSS can get red hot and not be damaged.) Continuing to grind when soft can transfer the softers steel to the CBN. Coarser CBN wheels may be easier on hardened high carbon steel than very fine, but still a gently touch with frequent cooling is recommended.

If the tools are kept cool there is no problem. This means a light touch at the grinder with frequent dipping in water. A water wheel such as the Tormek prevents the heat, but a CBN wheel should not be used in water unless the water container is removed and the wheel carefully dried after every use. Omit this and the wheel can be damaged.

If sharpening hardened carbon steel tools, keep in mind that some are only hardened for a short length from the tip. Grind through this and you'll get into soft steel. I test old tools with a file. If the file skids and doesn't cut, that steel is hardened. If the file cuts, that steel is not hardened. I have a set of calibrated hardness testing files that will give tell the hardness but a normal file is fine for turning tools.

It is theoretically possible to re-harden high carbon steel but it's best to know the type of steel since different steels have different methods: temperatures, controlled cooling (type of quenching) and annealing (to prevent brittleness). For example, I buy O1 steel: preheat and hold, heat to correct temperature, quench in oil, then anneal to 400F. It's easy to build a small kiln for this from firebricks and propane torches. Plenty of info on knifemaker sites and forums.

JKJ
 
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