Heat Source for Drying Chamber

[Ed Weingarden]

I built an insulated drying chamber a number of years ago (about 50 cubic ft) and have been using incandescent bulbs as the heat source. Those bulbs are pretty hard to find these days.. What's another method for heating the box? TIA

 

[John Whitley]

Heat lamp bulbs, e.g. for chicken coops, reptile habitats, etc. are still readily available. The heat is the point, so these aren't likely to be subsumed by cool lights like LEDs anytime soon. See also "ceramic heat emitter", which fits in a standard bulb socket but emits only heat.

 

[William Rogers]

I use the lizard ceramic “bulb".

This is an example, https://www.amazon.com/LUCKY-HERP-C...80adb7e8d4b2989f51&qid=1766264378&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[Wally Crawford]

I use a 750W space heater on a thermostat. Keeps my box within 2* all the time and recovers heat quickly.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

@John Whitly & William Rogers - do you know if the ceramic heat lamp bulbs will get a 50 cu ft enclosure up to at least 100 degrees?

Same question for @Wally Crawford with the space heater.

 

[William Rogers]

My chamber is 25 cu. ft. I have two 75 watt bulbs and I can get to 140 F. They are on separate switches so I can turn one off. I only need 1 to get to 100F. With two bulbs I have gone to 140 F and might have been able to go higher. You can get 150 watt. It would only be a guess, but I think a 150 watt would get you there. Of course your insulation will play a part in your temperature.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Thanks William

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Wood won't burn until way past these temps. But something is itching the back of my brain about not drying wood at temps higher than xxx°, and 140° is what I'm thinking. Something about the wood fibers and... I dunno. I could be completely wrong on both accounts, but worth considering.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

I usually get the temp up to about 110 degress with a 100w incandescent.

 

[William Rogers]

Wood won't burn until way past these temps. But something is itching the back of my brain about not drying wood at temps higher than xxx°, and 140° is what I'm thinking. Something about the wood fibers and... I dunno. I could be completely wrong on both accounts, but worth considering.

The 140F was for when I was trying to do Windsor chairs, not for drying wood. You “super dry” the dowel ends before assembly. I was just saying what temperatures I could get to in my system. To kill insects I think you need to get to 133F for at least 30 minutes.. My wood generally does not have insect activity and usually my final temp is 125F. I run 4 cycles one week each starting at 95F, 115f, 120F, and finally 125F. Weight is checked and sometimes I need an additional week at 125F.

 

[Wally Crawford]

My box, a converted commercial freezer, is approximately 75cubic feet. Depending on their size, I can dry 35-50 bowls at a time. My drying process starts at 80* and winds up at 110* although that happens over a course of weeks. I have learned that slower is better. I weigh in grams and when they quit losing weight, I know they have equalized.

 

[Wally Crawford]

I should add that 750W is probably not necessary, but it is what I had. Like William said, it depends on our insulation and box construction.

 

[Richard Coers]

I use a $10 hot plate I got on sale at Menards. I had a couple huge aluminum heat sinks laying in my hoarding pile, so put that on the hot plate and a tiny desk fan in the upright freezer I use.

 

[Dean Center]

My drier box for fishing rods uses halogen puck lights. They may also be hard to find, but I got them at Lowes at the time.