Hi, Mark Mandell+Chainsaw

[W.C. Turner]

Hi Mark,

<<"Always set your saw at about a 15° angle to the line of the pith">>

This is from your post of 05-27-2006,"A pithy problem"

Do you try to hold that 15° angle throughout the cut, and how do you maneuver if the log is longer than your bar?

Thanks.

W.C.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Hi WC,

If the bolt [log section] is longer than my saw's bar I have two options. (1)- I can set my saw from each end of the bolt as illustrated, or (2) - I can stay at one end of the log and reset my saw from the top such that it's nose-down with the chain cutting "up" through the rings and the nose is clear of the log. Which option I choose depends upon the wood I'm cutting. If I'm working in a piece with lots of compression wood like cherry, apple or pear and the keft wants to close, I could opt for the top-set to keep the nose clear of the kerf and avoid potential kickback as much as possible. Either way, however, if my bar is shorter than the bolt, I'm going to have that nose in the kerf at some point in the cut. My big saw has a 28" bar so you have to remember that the longer the bar the more force get's imparted to a kickback at the nose. I therefore prefer cutting from both ends because I can get a firmer grip with the dawg teeth set in the end-grain, and that increased grip will help me control any kickback if it occurs. When I can't avoid putting the nose in the kerf, I will always use some wood wedges in the top of the kerf to prevent the thing from closing up on me.

This situation only comes up where I want to maintain a maximum diameter for a bowl. In that situation I'll have cut the bolt's length to be several inches longer than the trunk is wide. With a 28" bar on my big saw, I'm not too likely to exceed its capacity since I don't do many bowls bigger than 28" regardless of how big the tree is.

m

PS I will keep my bar angled as long as possible, but at some point I will have to go "horizontal" to finish the cut. This is ok because at that point I've got a "A" shape left in the middle of the cut. When I flatten out my bar, I'm still getting shorter ribbons. I can also roll the bolt to put the kerf down, insert the bar and finish the cut with an up-stroke using the kickback force to my advantage to power up through the remaining wood on an angle. This cut is not to be done without a lot of caution, however, because the forces involved can get away from the operater very quickly.

M

 

[W.C. Turner]

Hey Mark,

I try to cut similiar to what you describe, although, I need a lot more practice.

I have difficulty in getting a flat blank when I'm finished. A lot of times, I'll have a slight shelf, or cleft, on the face of the blank.

Are your blanks usually flat on the faces when you're finished cutting?

Thanks,

W.C.

 

[Mark Mandell]

WC,

It's a "trick" to keep the cut surface flat and to get two cuts to line up when your bar is not long enough to make a single-set cut. Two things that will inprove your chances are a properly dressed and squared bar and a carefully sharpened chain. If the rails of your bar have worn more on one side than the other, the chain will run slanted to the "low" side and make it nearly impossible to get a straight and flat cut. So too, if your chain's cutters are not balanced for sharpness and depth set, they will tend to pull the cut off-line. If these are your problems, it's time for a bit of maintenence on your bar and chain. Check your bar with a good square to see if one of the rails has worn a bit more than the other. It they're not deadnuts square to the side of the bar, the bar can be lightly dressed on your bench grinder with a flat tool rest followed by a fine file to remove any formed burr, but be careful not to grind the points on your nose sprocket.

If you file sharpen, it's very hard to get all cutters precisely even in pitch and angle and length. This is fine for cross cutting. However variations between the two sides of the chain will cause it to pull to one side or the other and make things difficult in a rip-cut. A careful regrinding on a good sharpening rig will balance out the cutters so they'll run straight and true. I put a bit of care into my chains and actually mic the cutters when switching between sides to make sure they come out precisely even. Makes a big difference in the tool.

 

[Jeff Jilg]

I agree that it is sometimes tough to cut a straight line. This is especially true when you are cutting from both sides.

For larger pieces (over 12") you can position the piece so that the straight cut will be vertical. Then draw lines on both sides using a ruler and a grease pencil. By going back and forth from one side to the other you can usually get it.

But it's not like cutting firewood. If you use this method you have to watch where the saw is headed to maintain the straight line. Sometimes I have had a nearly perfect cut on a 20" piece (and no one was there to see the amazing cut). And sometimes I was not able to straighten it out and was off by 1". In this latter case, SWMBO typically comes out to see progress and asks why the cut isn't straighter. :cool2:

In the end it's just wood and it all grows on trees. So there's more where it came from.

 

[Hugh]

I think I need more practice in wood cutting after reading this. Is there anyone out there with a load of wood they would like to deliver to me to practice on?
Hugh

 

[Wilford Bickel]

Wedge

Reading Mark's post reminded me of the hard plastic wedge I bought over 25 years ago and would be lost without when I am cutting with a chain saw. Anytime I see a cut starting to pinch behind the blade I pull this little plastic wedge out of my hip pocket and using the heel of my hand seat it in the cut behind the saw. It has some grooves on it that prevent the log from pushing it back out and being plastic if you do allow the chain to touch it there is no damage to the chain. I don't know if these are still made but you should be able to make one from wood that would do the same job.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Reading Mark's post reminded me of the hard plastic wedge I bought over 25 years ago and would be lost without when I am cutting with a chain saw. Anytime I see a cut starting to pinch behind the blade I pull this little plastic wedge out of my hip pocket and using the heel of my hand seat it in the cut behind the saw. It has some grooves on it that prevent the log from pushing it back out and being plastic if you do allow the chain to touch it there is no damage to the chain. I don't know if these are still made but you should be able to make one from wood that would do the same job.

They hang in blister-paks on every chainsaw supply rack I've ever seen.

I carry 5-6 felling wedges in my saw toolbox. I make them out of scrap wood in different thicknesses. I use them for squirrelly kerfs and also as jacks to give more control when dropping the tree. They're saved my chains and bars (and probably me as well) many times.

 

[Wilford Bickel]

Good to know

I have not looked for them in a long time - good to know they are still on the market. I can't tell you how many times that little yellow plastic wedge has saved me!!