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Higher grade face shield

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I know this has been beat to death on forums. But I’ll ask anyway. Is there a higher grade face shield than the popular ones offered on many woodturners supply sites?
Not just the shield, but the head harness. I have broken two so far. I am not talking about ones with filtering.
Tired of this junky stuff!
 
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I recently bought a Bionic Uvex face shield from Amazon that's says it's ANSI Z87 certified and I'm not impressed. It's the same model sold by several woodworking retailers. It's all plastic with nylon screws that don't hold. The plastic is very clear and seems to be scratch resistant but very thin. It works fine as a dust shield or for protecting your face from some very small pieces of wood. It would not stop a larger pieces so I'm in the market for something more sturdy. It's hard to find a face shield that doesn't come with a respirator system.
 
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Before I got my Versaflo, I bought this Jackson face shield from one of the big box stores:
It’s about twice as sturdy as the Uvex Bionic face shields. I still use it when I teach and demo. If you really want something seriously sturdy and with good head protection, you could buy just the Versaflo helmet and use it without the gasket or air connection. I’d say it’s about 10x sturdier than the Bionic.
 
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I've used a 3M Ansi Z87 faceshield for a very long time, actually 2 of them, one at each lathe. I've replaced a couple of shields when I could no longer see through the stuck on CA glue. (don't use it much anymore) The harness part has held up very well. At our high school, where the students swap and resize multiple times daily, the harnesses don't hold up so well, but for one person, they should last indefinitely. I wear mine over a welder's bandana/cap for a more comfortable fit and no sawdust on what's left of the hair. I will say, I've seen an apparently 3M faceshield with thin, flexible plastic for a shield and would not recommend that model.
 
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I found some details on these safety ratings and their tests, and was especially interested in the difference between Z87 and Z87+. While the tests don't mimic the hazards we turners face, there's an obvious advantage to Z87+ where the high velocity impact test fires a 1/4" steel ball at the plastic at a speed of either 102mph or 170mph "depending on the eye ware." https://www.hexarmor.com/posts/what-do-lens-markings-and-z87-mean

My practice, and what I suggest to students, is to wear safety glasses under the shield if there's bark that may fly off or the blank (bowl usually) is very unbalanced or heavy. I feel more concern about something blowing up (hollow form, or bowl with cracks or being turned very thin) than simply departing whole from the lathe. At our lathes, the rare flyaway (which happened to me today) tends to ricochet between the tool rest and the dust hood and then straight to the floor. With dents.
 
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Before I got my Versaflo, I bought this Jackson face shield from one of the big box stores:
It’s about twice as sturdy as the Uvex Bionic face shields. I still use it when I teach and demo. If you really want something seriously sturdy and with good head protection, you could buy just the Versaflo helmet and use it without the gasket or air connection. I’d say it’s about 10x sturdier than the Bionic.

I have that one, too. With the high humidity in Tennessee, it fogs despite the anti-fog coating. But it's sturdy, like you say.
 
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John, if I looked at the right one, there's no frame at the bottom? That seems a lack of protection for the turner's throat/larynx. Just a thought....
The shield is longer enough that it hangs down to the larynx area. Someone other than 3M was making and selling a similar looking faceshield that had a thin metal strip around the bottom edge, but the plastic itself was thinner and maybe more brittle than the 3M, and apparently there were problems with it. The Bionic looks like it should be more robust with that wide plastic material at the bottom, but that knockoff faceshield showed how looks can be deceiving. The 3M plastic itself is good protection, in my experience. My 3M Airshield PAPR is even better. (Wow, it sure sounds like I'm a marketing person for 3M, but it just happens I've got and like their products)
 
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The Z78+ shield on my Lincoln Electric Omni Shield (found it on Amazon) finally needed to be replaced. At our next turners group meeting I placed the used shield on the floor and pounded it with a ball peen hammer. Finally a corner broke off, due to there being a hole in the area. Convinced us that the shield is not going to break if struck by a flying piece of wood. Now the headgear part comes down IMO to personal comfort and ease of adjustment.
 
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Redding, CA
I know this has been beat to death on forums. But I’ll ask anyway. Is there a higher grade face shield than the popular ones offered on many woodturners supply sites?
Not just the shield, but the head harness. I have broken two so far. I am not talking about ones with filtering.
Tired of this junky stuff!
When my filtered helmet needs a re-charge but I don’t, I grab my welding helmet (with clear view plate insert). It’s made of pretty solid stuff.
 
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The Bionic looks like it should be more robust with that wide plastic material at the bottom, but that knockoff faceshield showed how looks can be deceiving. The 3M plastic itself is good protection, in my experience.
The Bionic plastic shield is so thin and it's just clipped into the bottom. Plus the plastic frame is pretty thin too. A piece of wood larger than an inch or two is going straight through it.
 

Roger Wiegand

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The Bionic plastic shield is so thin and it's just clipped into the bottom. Plus the plastic frame is pretty thin too. A piece of wood larger than an inch or two is going straight through it.
I can tell you from repeated personal experience that this is not true.

To get the Z87.1 rating shields need to pass a number of tests including 1) a 0.25-inch steel ball fired at 6 specific spots on the lens at 150 feet per second, 2) a high mass impact test performed by dropping a 500 g steel ball from 50 inches, 3) a puncture test performed by dropping a sharp needle weighing 1.56 ounces on the lens from 50 inches. All evidence suggests this is adequate for most woodworking applications, especially if combined with safety glasses under the shield.

If you want to step up from that you can get glasses rated MIL-PRF 32432 that will stop a small bullet.
 
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I can tell you from repeated personal experience that this is not true.

To get the Z87.1 rating shields need to pass a number of tests including 1) a 0.25-inch steel ball fired at 6 specific spots on the lens at 150 feet per second, 2) a high mass impact test performed by dropping a 500 g steel ball from 50 inches, 3) a puncture test performed by dropping a sharp needle weighing 1.56 ounces on the lens from 50 inches. All evidence suggests this is adequate for most woodworking applications, especially if combined with safety glasses under the shield.

If you want to step up from that you can get glasses rated MIL-PRF 32432 that will stop a small bullet.
I think what he means is, if something hits the clear shield itself only, the retaining means for the lens to the helmet itself may be such that the lens can flex or break out of the face frame (That is, the weak link is where you remove and install lens to replace it within the helmet), and once that happens a large bulky piece (Such as a one inch chunk of wood) can drive its way through the gap between frame and lens thus created (or even just driving the lens itself) right back into the wearer's face? Do they test the WHOLE HELMET as an assembly, or just the lens, would be the main question, I suspect?
 

hockenbery

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The Bionic plastic shield is so thin and it's just clipped into the bottom. Plus the plastic frame is pretty thin too. A piece of wood larger than an inch or two is going straight through it.

A z78.1 bionic face shield will provide significant protection. See @Roger Wiegand
But realize a large block hitting the head at velocity will like cause a concussion regardless of whether it penetrates or crushes the shield. Concussion effects vary from no symptoms to death. Virtually nothing you wear exists to protect you from being hit straight on by a 50
pound block. A steel cage over the turning will keep you from being hit.

Protection starts with learning about wood stability, holding techniques, turning techquiques, body position.
Staying out of the line of fire is a start. However a piece bouncing off the tool rest creates a wide angle line of ricochet.
 
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I was looking for a unit for safety and hearing protection that was comfortable. Not much out their but came across this unit and love it. Its comfortable and works well. I changed the clear shield with the bionic unit and works great for what I was looking for. Found it on Amazon for 80 dollars Canadian. Use it for chainsawing, and many other shop jobs.

GREEN DEVIL Forestry Safety Helmet Chainsaw Helmet with Face Shield and Ear Muffs 3 in 1 Forestry Hard Hat …​

 

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Roger Wiegand

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I think what he means is, if something hits the clear shield itself only, the retaining means for the lens to the helmet itself may be such that the lens can flex or break out of the face frame (That is, the weak link is where you remove and install lens to replace it within the helmet), and once that happens a large bulky piece (Such as a one inch chunk of wood) can drive its way through the gap between frame and lens thus created (or even just driving the lens itself) right back into the wearer's face? Do they test the WHOLE HELMET as an assembly, or just the lens, would be the main question, I suspect?
The test also requires that the lens not be dislodged from the frame.
 
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But realize a large block hitting the head at velocity will like cause a concussion regardless of whether it penetrates or crushes the shield. Concussion effects vary from no symptoms to death. Virtually nothing you wear exists to protect you from being hit straight on by a 50 pound block. A steel cage over the turning will keep you from being hit.
I don't need to stop a 50 pound blank just some from a few ounces to a couple of pounds. :) Most of the pieces I've been hit with were, at most, large splinters that ricochet off the lathe. After reading this thread I feel better about my face protection (and tempted to go pound on a scratched up lens with a hammer). It's why I read and ask questions here, somebody will know the answer or have experience with the item or technique.
 
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I have a Bionic face shield that’s part of my Peke CleanAir, been wearing it religiously for 2-3 years. Haven’t had any serious blocks fly into it but it’s stopped all of the nuisance stuff and I’m very comfortable with the protection it provides (especially for my lungs).

My question is: there are LOTS of Bionic face shields out there, has anyone experienced a failure with it?
 
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I have a Bionic face shield that’s part of my Peke CleanAir, been wearing it religiously for 2-3 years. Haven’t had any serious blocks fly into it but it’s stopped all of the nuisance stuff and I’m very comfortable with the protection it provides (especially for my lungs).

My question is: there are LOTS of Bionic face shields out there, has anyone experienced a failure with it?
I broke the straps....twice. Could be my giant head
 

odie

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I use the Versaflo helmet most of the time. When turning green wood or other times when dust protection isn't critical, I just wear my Stihl chainsaw helmet with the clear face shield instead of the wire face cage.
 
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No impact failures here - had a few chunks come off in the last two decades plus of turning, but most fell harmlessly. Early on, mentors stressed staying out of the line of fire and checking the wood for flaws before and while turning. Had a couple of pieces hit the face mask in the past, but neither did any damage although it was a wake-up call to get back to basics.

I’ve seen threads in the past on heavier duty recommendations that resulted in suggestions that everything from riot gear to catcher’s masks and hockey equipment being worn. I’d suggest that if you’ve got that many heavy chunks flying around you may want to adjust your technique. It’s cheaper and safer.

I’m in the camp of those who believe industry testing represents real-world conditions for the most part. The design of a good mask should help redirect the force of the impact not necessarily stop a Mack truck head on. That mask may not survive a heavy impact - just like your car has crumple zones built in - but you should come out of the process without substantial damage. I bought a new Bionic mask - the plus version with anti-fog on sale for less than $35 a while back to have on the shelf as a spare. Cheap insurance. My everyday wear is still in reasonably good shape and provides protection while being light in weight and unintrusive.
 
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I believe this was a Bionic shield.
The guy that had been wearing it got a cracked skull, concussion and a dozen and a half stitches.
Roughing a large Oak blank approx. 20 inches. Thought he had a nice crotch section, was faux crotch. He was in the line of fire when the bark inclusion failed.
He recovered well,,after which I had some strong words for him about this approach, how one needs to be behind the piece, turning from the tailstock end. Regardless of what you’re wearing, you simply cannot be in-line with your piece, especially when roughing.

Be safe, y’all!

IMG_1401.jpeg
 
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I , Regardless of what you’re wearing, you simply cannot be in-line with your piece, especially when roughing.
yeah - that’s hard to argue. if you’re going to insist on standing in the line of fire you need more than riot gear to keep you safe. Perhaps one of those old-school copper diving helmets would help.
 
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Bernie, I had been looking at the Omni Shield and your review sold me. I ordered the XC chin guard model from cyberweld.com.

I don't know about the Omni shield. Does not have the safety rating forimpact. That I can see, and says you can wear safety glasses under it. So seems like it's for grinding sparks. I could be wrong.


edit. Ok I found out it only meets z87 not the better and higher standard z87+ which is better for impacts.
 
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Glenn

Check the Amazon link I posted above. It’s a different Omni Shield than what’s in the other link, and it’s Z87+
. It’s made of very thick hard clear plastic so it doesn’t need a frame around the lens
 
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