Home brew Danish oil finish

[John K Jordan]

I have found that with Watco DO following the duration can work best. “Wipe off excess after 15 to 30 minutes “

Yes, that works well with some wood. The thing is I end up with different procedures for different wood. I used some the last few days on some persimmon, and while it has some pores it is hard and fine grain the the "danish" stuff barely soaks into the surface. In that case every hour or so I can wipe off the last and apply more. The environment may make a difference. My shop is temperature and humidity controlled.

JKJ

 

[Jon Rista]

@Steve Tiedman Thank you for the detailed post. Helpful.

I probably don't know how to apply wax properly. The first several times I tried to apply wax over poly finished bowls, which was Feb/March last year, the only thing I felt the wax did was to dull the finish. It was hard for me, as I'd never really done much with poly before (this was mostly minwax WOP) and it took a lot of effort and time to get a nice, glossy finish with the poly. I did eventually succeed, mostly (nibs...oh, I hate nibs with poly!!), until I put the wax on. Then the gloss was just gone. I had a satin sheen instead, and it didn't seem to matter if I got it out of a can and wiped it on or applied it with a buffing wheel. Gloss isn't always my goal, but that was the goal with these pieces (in large part, just to see what it would really take to get a glossy finish with poly...and it took a lot more than I expected!)

I've only used modern polyurethane, so, its a urethane meaning its a synthetic resin thats more similar to rubber or plastic. I've never had the pleasure of using old style varnishes, even though I have wanted to. I'd love to use a varnish that utilized natural resins instead of a modern synthetic. Some of that is just who I am, I prefer natural substances as much as I can (probably one of the reasons I don't care much for water based finishes), but I also have seen pieces and even furniture finished with varnishes made from natural resins, and they are stunning!

In any case...I am curious, from a general application method standpoint...is there any benefit in applying just oil to start, 2-3 penetrating coats, before using a danish oil or similar home made mix? Would starting with pure oil cause any problems for the varnish in the DO/HomeBrew adhering to the wood or anything like that? I ask, because something I do love about oil finishes is, when they penetrate, they really bring out the most beautiful characteristics of the wood, maximize the chatoyance, figure, etc.

One of the reasons I use shellac rather than other kinds of wood selaers (and I have several other kinds including chestnut, mylands and some kind of nano-particle water based sealer with UV protective properties), is shellac, at least when thinned right, also seems to penetrate a bit, and while it doesn't penetrate as deep as oil can, it does also seem to bring out the chatoyance and other featured of the wood better. The cellulose sanding sealer from mylands and whatever chestnut sealer is, they seem to be more of a surface film that just doesn't do the same thing as oil or shellac when they penetrate a bit.

Anyway. I need to see a pro finish a DO/varnish finish with wax... See how it turns out. I work from home, shop is in my home, so, I don't get out much and don't know many (well, really now, any) woodworkers locally. I knew a few at the local woodcraft, a number of guys in their late 50s to mid 70s, all who really knew their stuff, and we chatted all the time in 2020 and early 2021. I think they all retired or something sometime around 2021, and that was the last I saw of them. I actually did not have any contact info, they often had their own works shown around cases in the shop, and I just knew them from the shop. They were all great guys, but since they departed that woodcraft, I haven't really met many other turners, and the couple that I have has mostly been in passing (and most are younger like me or younger than that, and newer to woodworking.)

 

[J. Paul Fennell]

Interesting thread. For years, my go-to oil finish is homemade and consists of one part each of BLO, pure tung oil, gloss varnish and odorless mineral spirits or turpentine. It is sometimes called the "Maloof Finish" if you use Polyurethane instead of varnish. One quart each part yields a gallon. The trick in low-humidity Arizona is to store it in several containers, the best of which would be sixteen repurposed16-oz aluminum beer cans with the sealed screw top cap. You need to get the beer out of the cans first (an added benefit if you are so inclined!). Lasts for years. Works great on turnings, table tops, cabinets etc. But it is not food safe.

 

[Jon Rista]

Interesting thread. For years, my go-to oil finish is homemade and consists of one part each of BLO, pure tung oil, gloss varnish and odorless mineral spirits or turpentine. It is sometimes called the "Maloof Finish" if you use Polyurethane instead of varnish. One quart each part yields a gallon.

How well does turpentine work? The odorless ms I have doesn't work for anything, and turpentine is the only other decent solvent I have access to.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Yes, that works well with some wood. The thing is I end up with different procedures for different wood. I used some the last few days on some persimmon, and while it has some pores it is hard and fine grain the the "danish" stuff barely soaks into the surface. In that case every hour or so I can wipe off the last and apply more. The environment may make a difference. My shop is temperature and humidity controlled.

JKJ

I've learned that the harder, the denser, wood is, the less anything will soak it. Which, stands to reason. With cocobolo, you may as well stop after one light coat of any penetrating oil, after that I've found it pretty much sits on the surface. I had made a few cocobolo gear shift knobs for manual transmision cars, and in time (couple years) the oil finish on the cocobolo actually became gummy on the surface. Knobs made from other woods, even hard maple, never had that reaction, they just looked better with time and use.

 

[Pat Wisniewski]

Great thread! I made up some 1/3MS, 1/3BLO, 1/3Poly to refinish a MSM table but the resulting finish scratched quite easily. I need to re-do the finish. Any suggestions (less poly?)

Bill Alston,
How did you make the abrasive wax you mentioned?

Bill Alston said:
“I made some abrasive wax a couple of years ago. Even buying small quantities of the ingredients it still worked out at about 25% of the cost of the commercial products and was incredibly easy to make. I gave some to friends to try and they all gave it the thumbs up.”

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

For those of you who mix tung oil and BLO, what advantage does that give over either oil when used individually?

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Hello @Jon Rista,

Wax application and dulling- what did you use to apply and remove the wax? I'm simple about this- a small piece of old, very soft 100% cotton undershirt works great for this. I apply it off or on the lathe, just a couple quick swipes to apply a thin coat fully. Wait a bit for the solvents to mostly flash off, then a clean rag of the same material to gently buff it off, on the lathe or off. I don't use any powered buffing wheels. Carnuba wax paste waxes will offer shine (as I mentioned earlier, by filling the nearly invisible micro scratches on the surface) better than softer waxes like beeswax. I also don't use any of the abrasive buffing waxes. Here are the two cans of wax that have been in my shop for a good 20 years. A little wax on the rag goes a very long way. Also showing the three Tried & True polymerized linseed oil finishes I use. The danish oil on top is the one I seem to use most, and it is straight polymerized linseed oil. "Original" contains beeswax, "Varnish Oil" contains pine resin- it really is not a high gloss finish like the typical gloss polyurethane varnishes.


Shellac can also be appied over the top of oil finishes, the caveat I'd offer is to allow full, complete curing of the oil. Me- I'd probably wait 30 days for that curing before shellac. But shellac over a couple coats of penetrating oil would look great for all the reasons you mentioned. And yes, oil based varnish will work just fine over preliminary coats of penetrating oil, but I'd use straight oil for that, not a wax-oil blend.

Here's a snap from Bob Flexner's book I mentioned earlier about shellac, quick list of pros and cons. He covers 14 pages on shellac alone, including color photos. Great book, I highly recommend it. Has sections on wood prep and sanding for finishing, and waxes, as well. I hope all of this helps.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

For those of you who mix tung oil and BLO, what advantage does that give over either oil when used individually?

Kent, I have not blended them, but I see no reason, nor advantage, to doing so. I've gone through a lot of each over the years with great results. I'm sticking to T&T product now for its polymerizing of the oil, cures relatively faster (but still slowly) than pure tung oil. Behlan's pure tung is what I used in my 1:1:1 mixes.

 

[Aaron Harris]

Though I make and use a number of home-made finishes (shine juice, etc.), I keep coming back to Tried and True Danish Oil for really fine pieces I want to take to the next level; it's totally food-safe, and is just literally boiled linseed oils. I guess my application method is similar to John K. Jordan's, with about six coats applied with an old t-shirt square not quite soaking wet with mineral spirits so I can apply lighter coats of oil and really level it out with lots of burnishing. Then on a really special piece like a recent Oregon black walnut platter with just crazy figure, I rubbed in another three coats of Tried and True Varnish Oil that contains some pine resin with more of the same treatment, and it just lit that figure up with a gloss that is deep and rich without being plastic looking. On a really special piece that I'm not in a hurry to get done for a market, this process might take a couple of weeks, less if we get a string of sunny, dry and windy weather so that I can really cure them quickly on my south-facing deck.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Kent, I have not blended them, but I see no reason, nor advantage, to doing so. I've gone through a lot of each over the years with great results. I'm sticking to T&T product now for its polymerizing of the oil, cures relatively faster (but still slowly) than pure tung oil. Behlan's pure tung is what I used in my 1:1:1 mixes.

Tried and True are my go-to finishes as well.

 

[John K Jordan]

Here's a snap from Bob Flexner's book I mentioned earlier about shellac, quick list of pros and cons.

I have the book, about time to read it again.

To the cons of shellac I’d add that shellac can soften with alcohol. I don’t use it on things like bottle stoppers or platters someone may set a drink on, just in case.

Don’t use it on things like horse riders crops and things that get a lot of handing, sometimes in harsh conditions - usually stick with TruOil for those.

Examples.



Anyone want to make some money might try making these. Have to find the right venue - best at equestrian competitions, Hunter Jumper class.

I only sell things when someone twists my arm but the last person who found about about these was happy to pay $300. For a rider who spends $60,000 for a horse and a couple of thousand for the required outfits this is nothing.
These are my personal design - I don't know if anyone else is making them now but at the time they were unique. I have specs in info if anyone's interested. I make them mostly for friends. Also, cheap to make - a few dollars for the crop shaft with leather on the end, an 8" spindle blank, some epoxy.

JKJ

 

[Doug Freeman]

Great thread! I made up some 1/3MS, 1/3BLO, 1/3Poly to refinish a MSM table but the resulting finish scratched quite easily. I need to re-do the finish. Any suggestions (less poly?)

More poly. More oil softens the cured finish. For a table where high abrasion resistance is needed, pure poly ( can be thinned) will provide the best abrasion resistance.

 

[John K Jordan]

More poly. More oil softens the cured finish. For a table where high abrasion resistance is needed, pure poly ( can be thinned) will provide the best abrasion resistance.

A pro furniture maker I know uses only water-based poly on his work. Extremely durable on the pieces have from him.

 

[Doug Freeman]

is there any benefit in applying just oil to start, 2-3 penetrating coats, before using a danish oil or similar home made mix? Would starting with pure oil cause any problems for the varnish in the DO/HomeBrew adhering to the wood or anything like that? I ask, because something I do love about oil finishes is, when they penetrate, they really bring out the most beautiful characteristics of the wood, maximize the chatoyance, figure, etc.

I have found no benefit starting with oil, in fact a bit of detriment - the higher the varnish content the fewer coats to fully seal the surface. In my tests I found poly varnish to provide the same grain/figure/chatoyance improvement as oil. This is with the poly thinned 1:1 and applied like do.

One thing that has a major impact on grain enhancement is color variation. Some oils have more color than varnish, and its the color difference that adds to enhancement. At times I use oil based dyes in my spar varnish for this reason. It doesn’t take much. The liquid (non pigment) part of most box store stains is dye, and can be mixed directly into varnish or oil. I find large popsickle sticks give me a cheap source of wood to test color on.

 

[Fred Hargis]

For those of you who mix tung oil and BLO, what advantage does that give over either oil when used individually?

I'm glad you asked that, I was wondering the same thing.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

With all the wood finishes that are available commercially I have never understood why one would spend time making a "home brew" wood finish. I can't believe that any "home brew" would be superior to that available in the marketplace.

Help me understand the reason(s) for "home brew" wood finishes. - John

Back in the day, the home-brews were better than the commercial products IMO, and MUCH cheaper. When I taught finishing in a college wood program, I taught my students to buy a can of quality alkyd varnish (easy to find then, not now), a jug of boiled linseed oil, and a jug of mineral spirits and we made 1) Danish oil (oil-varnish blend, more correctly) and 2) wiping varnish. and 3) 'stain conditioner' which is just a bit of oil in a lot of mineral spirits... we could control the consistency exactly, and it was cheap and reliable. I had other recipes, but I'd have to stop and think. Now, I am a convert to Osmo Polyx, so I won't be making up home-brews for interior stuff. For tools handles etc. that might be used outside, I will stick with my wiping varnish home-brew, made with marine varnish, until I can investigate what Osmo has for that.

ETA that Bob Flexner book was a classic, and I had each of my students buy it as a required text for years. If you hadn't heard, he died in December; quite a guy, and a useful life.https://blog.lostartpress.com/2025/03/15/bob-flexner-1940-2024/

 

[John K Jordan]

For tools handles etc. that might be used outside, I will stick with my wiping varnish home-brew, made with marine varnish, until I can investigate what Osmo has for that.

ETA that Bob Flexner book was a classic, and I had each of my students buy it as a required text for years. If you hadn't heard, he died in December; quite a guy, and a useful life.

Around the farm, I often use straight BLO for wooden tool handles, decks on big trailers, and on the outsides of barn doors. Slather it on, protects well.

Sorry to hear about Bob Flexner.
His book was my favorite go-to sources for good information.

JKJ

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Around the farm, I often use straight BLO for wooden tool handles, decks on big trailers, and on the outsides of barn doors. Slather it on, protects well.

Sorry to hear about Bob Flexner.
His book was my favorite go-to sources for good information.

JKJ

If it's rough stuff, like a shovel handle, BLO if anything. I was thinking more of finer tools like slicks, framing chisels, froes etc. They get the marine wiping varnish.

 

[Jon Rista]

ETA that Bob Flexner book was a classic, and I had each of my students buy it as a required text for years. If you hadn't heard, he died in December; quite a guy, and a useful life.https://blog.lostartpress.com/2025/03/15/bob-flexner-1940-2024/

That is very sad. His book was one of the first I purchased after I started turning. I haven't read all of it, it has a TON of information in it, but I have read many of the most important bits. That man was a man of deep research, if nothing else!!