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Homemade Threading Jig

I posted a while back on how to make a threading jig. Taking the ideas from the post, searching the web, and input form a club member I was finally able to make one with somewhat repeatable results. The biggest challenge is eliminating runout. Dealing with off the shelf components and several mods I am somewhere between 0.005” and 0.009” runout consistently. I don’t think I can get it down any further and getting to this point was not without a lot of modifications. This jig is nowhere in the same class as one of the Baxter, Hope or ChefsWear jigs. It is big and bulky, but does work ok at a reduced price. I size the threads the same as the Alan Batty video using hand thread tools.

Description
Threading 2.jpeg

1. Sliding vice from HF cost was $69 (with $20 coupon) The vice is mounted on a piece of walnut and I used a piece of corian between the way to maintain position.
2. Base wood block. This was drilled when installed in the sliding vice to maintain center.
3. Cast hand wheel, $14 from Amazon,
4. 3/4” 10 tpi all thread $5
5. Jam nut used to stop the advance into the part.
6. 1 1/4” aluminum bar I threaded. I tried the 3/4” rod couplings, but way too much slop in those threads. Left over material from another project and I already had the tap.
7. I added 3 set screws on each end of the aluminum bar to take up any backlash in the threads. There is a leather plug in the bottom of the set screws.
8. One Way 3/4” to 1 1/4” adapter.

thread 3.jpeg

9. Indicator. This is a must have. Way too much backlash in the HF threads and the scale for the vise is way too coarse. Also I do not cut when reversing the part. I back off the cutter reverse the wood and then bring the cutter back to cutting using the indicator.

thread 4.jpeg

10. BMwood collet system $89 Amazon. I didnt have one, but can use it for other things in addition to this.
11. 3/4" Diameter, 3/16" Wide 60° Double Angle Cutter, HSS, Amazon $40

Thread 5.jpeg

12. I use the banjo as a stop so I can slide the jig back to check the male threads against the female threads and return to the same place (using the indicator) if addition cutting depth is needed.
 
Click to expand...
I am able to do 3 different tpi’s with this jig

Thread 6.jpeg

13. This has a 3/4” 16 tpi all thread. One disadvantage is I could not find a 3/4” 16 tpi to 1 1/4” 8 tpi. Only thing was a 3/4” 16 tpi to 1” 8 tpi and only have one chuck that will fit.
14. This was the original jig. It has a 1 1/4” 8 tpi all thread where I can use most of my chuck right from the lathe. Instead of a threaded bar through it has 1 1/4” 8 tpi nuts welded to flat washers and those are screwed to the wood.

Here are some examples.

IMG_4508.jpeg

IMG_4509.jpeg

Left to right Elm 8 tpi, hackberry 10 tpi, Red Oak 16 tpi and ash 10 tpi

Closer view of the Red Oak with 16 tpi

IMG_4510.jpeg
 
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Very cool. I'm sure the indicator takes a lot of the guesswork out of it.

I built my own as well a few years ago. I sort of built it in my head, but actually put it together a few days or maybe a week before I had to do a demonstration for our club. It worked pretty well, but I'd like to reduce the play in the threads. I used a foot of 1" x 8tpi all thread and a few nuts. A few wraps of teflon tape worked pretty well, but it it would get snagged and have to be redone.

I bought a very cheap (all plastic) digital caliper to use on mine. I cut off the jaws for inside and outside measurements, as well as the depth gauge. One part got fixed to the base, and the other to the sliding carriage. My base goes into the banjo, but the digital readout allows it to move away, then return to the same spot.
 
@Darryl Fective I did watch your video on your homemade threading jig. I thought it was one of the better homemade jigs. Very clever in putting it together in just a few days and seemed to work well. You will notice the plastic screws in my 1 1/4 - 8 fixture I got from your video. A club member used the HF sliding vice and me overkilling went down that route. Took me much more than a couple of days. For my jig I tried welding 10 tpi nuts to fender washers for the 10 tpi thread like I did for the 8 tpi, but just not very robust. The 8 tpi works great as those nuts are massive. I did just order a 1” 8 tpi female to 1 1/4” 8 tpi male adapter to use for the 16 tpi fixture. I’ll need to see if the runout is excessive, but can use my other chucks that would be a plus.
 
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