How do you clean your tools?

[Alan Weinberg]

There are threads on deep cleaning and disassembly of chucks as well as rust removing from lathes. But what’s a good way to clean tools, especially after turning green wet wood? Are mineral spirits such as Klean Strip the way to go? How do you keep your tools in good condition?

 

[robo hippy]

Best 'how to take your chuck apart, clean it, and put it back together came from Ian Robbo Robertson from Australia. He takes apart a Vicmark and a Nova Chuck. He is most famous for his 'Why you don't use a roughing gouge for turning bowls video. Practical, and to the point.

I prefer to turn sloppy wet wood and let it dry and warp. For cleaning my tools, mostly it is wipe them off with a rag, taking care to avoid sharp edges. If I leave them over night and the gunk dries on the tool, I do keep one grinder with a wire wheel on it in my shop. The wire wheel is really good for cleaning up that gunk. I have my 'sanding chuck' which has the extended jaws. Those jaws get a lot of sawdust and walnut oil on them. Again, I take them to the wire wheel. Some times bit of solvent is necessary.

robo hippy

 

[Dave Landers]

But what’s a good way to clean tools, especially after turning green wet wood? Are mineral spirits such as Klean Strip the way to go? How do you keep your tools in good condition?

I try to remember to blow/brush the chips off the lathe bed after turning wet wood. And don't leave logs sitting on the lathe bed or saw table. If I forget, a little fine sandpaper or steel wool (maybe with wd40) gets the surface rust. If things need obvious attention (like the tailstock quill not turning smoothly etc) then I address it. The only kind of regular thing I do is to wipe a candle across the bottom of the banjo to make it slide smoother - but I only do that when it isn't sliding well. No other maintenance schedule for me. I expect it helps a lot that I live in a dry climate.

 

[Chuck Engstrom]

A small wire brush shaped pretty much like a toothbrush is handy for clearing gunk off tools, try to get it done before the green wood particles dry hard onto the surface.

 

[Odie]

I'm one who also uses a hand held wire brush for cleaning lathe tools of gunk. Narrow bristles, like a toothbrush work the best. Always brush toward the cutting edge, as opposed to starting at the cutting edge and brushing away from it. This one from HF, I've found to work the best for me:

Steel Bristle Brush

Amazing deals on this Steel Bristle Brush at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

-o-

 

[hughie]

I have something similar, but the brush is brass wire

 

[Doug Freeman]

Hand held Brass brush if the stuff has dried. Sometimes there’s still some stuff on the tool - a little household ammonia sprayed on and let sit for a minute and all the stains etc wipe away with a cloth.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

a little household ammonia

@Doug,I read this as homemade ammonia and I wondered how you made that.

 

[Tom Gall]

If we're talking about gouges, etc. - I have a little bottle that has a narrow spout with lacquer thinner (any solvent would probably work). A few drops and an old toothbrush will do the trick. If stubborn I'll use a brass brush instead - but rarely needed.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

For the rusted parts and for polishing tool flutes (which get quite dirty from resin buildup when turning) I use Klingspor Sandflex. It works extremely well for rust and caked resin. Every time I sharpen I polish the flutes.

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/SA99996/

 

[Neil S]

Every time I sharpen I polish the flutes.

I power 'polish' the last 1" of the flute with a rag wheel and chromium compound about every five sharpenings. It is very quick on the rag wheel at about 5s per gouge. That is not about keeping the flute clean but keeping the flute surface near the edge at a high polish. I find that gives a longer lasting edge.

At the end of a green turning session I just swipe off any damp crud build-up in the flute with a brush. If any resin has set hard on them then that will be removed the next time I power polish the flute with the rag wheel.

I have never cleaned any other parts of my turning tools and never bothered with any solvents, etc. Most of my well used tools look like they are very well used... I'm not running a dental surgery or showroom!

I find that my very well used looking tools do the job just as well as any of my new clean looking ones...

 

[Neil McWilliams]

I prefer to prevent sticky build up turning green wood by wiping tools during use with piece of paper toweling saturated with a couple sprays of the CRC 6-56 marine lubricant (my preference over WD-40)., Watch out for green honey locust shavings; left on steel or cast iron for more than a few minutes creates immediate oxidation (rust).