How thick should I make my green bowl sides. For the best result
the business of "equal thickness" doesn't apply.
You're saying even/equal wall thickness isn't applicable?
Not sure why a smooth surface on a rough bowl would help anything, but good tool technique will produce one automatically, even when you're hurrying hauling trash out of the way. Turns out the easiest and fastest way produces the best surface, with wet wood easier to slice than dry in most cases.
the business of "equal thickness" doesn't apply.
You're saying even/equal wall thickness isn't applicable?
If a roughed bowl has bump, ridges, tearout, it will be harder to reshape round and will require more wood removal.
When I return a bowl I try to turn the out of round to the one or two lines on the outside of the bowl that are in round.
This yields the largest bowl.
Rarely do I need to reshape this curve.
Require more wood removal? Something happening other than the normal shrink because you didn't make things slick? The difference along versus across grain will be the same regardless.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/BroadOutProgressive.jpg The short (end) grain needs to be cut to get to circular.
Inside http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/BroadInStaging.jpg The long grain needs to be cut.
....a quarter inch difference in thickness is not significant. In the right place, even a half! ...
Boy I'll agree with Reed on that. Where you live has huge amounts to do with how the wood dries and that's probably why there are so many different techniques. What works for me might not work for you and vice/versa. If we all had ideal storage areas it might be different but most of us are forced to store the wood in less than ideal situations and consequently simply have to experiment and find what works best for us.
... Not sure why a smooth surface on a rough bowl would help anything, but good tool technique will produce one automatically ...
Yes I am. I'll go one further and say that the business of a thinner bottom doesn't apply. Since there's no consistency in dry rate, there's no need to try to be consistent in thickness....
NB I haven't ever had any problem leaving the edges sharp while drying. But it makes sense to round them over in case you should brush against them after they dry.
MM,
The wood shrinks the same,
If you are returning a rough surface you sort of have to go through the roughing process again
Any ridge will have the same undulating warp of the rim.
The smoother the surface on the roughed out bowl the easier it is to return
Al
Rounding over the rims does make a difference. Dale Larson does it with long cylinders, I do it on all my bowls. Now, as to why it works, that I haven't really figured out yet. It could be in part because the sharp corner will dry faster because it is so fine, where if you round it over, it keeps things closer to 'even wall thickness', so the stresses will balance better. Not really sure, but it does make a measurable difference in drying success. The same goes for wrapping the rims of my once turned bowls with plastic stretch film.
robo hippy
MM,
If you think it is easier to return rough surfaced dried bowls have at it.
You are most welcome to keep on turning rough surfaced bowls if that is what you prefer.
If you balance the rim the for returning the bowl is not unbalanced just out of round.
Two high spots equidistance from the head stock,, two low spots equidistance from the headstock.
Easy to do with the bowl Jamed on a an open chuck.
Your post in the bottom doesn't lend itself to balancing which is why you have unbalance returns.
I made this statement in the my first post and you seemed to have gotten all wrapped up in refuting it.
Again if you want to recommend leaving rough surfaces fine, I think it bad advice.
I don't think MM uses a bevel rubbing cut for his finish cut. It isn't easily visible from his video clips. It is more of the so called 'shear scrape' with his broad nose/continental gouges. 2 handed push cut. Interesting cut, but I prefer the bevel rub cut. The higher shear angle on MM's style cut does a good job, but I find rubbing the bevel leaves a bit cleaner surface, especially on really difficult woods.
robo hippy
His inside cuts are off the bevel, can't remember about the outside cut so much. The advantage of the continental gouge is that it has a larger ,sweet spot' than other fluted gouges. I think he used the same cut on the outside as well. Interesting thing is that with this high angle shear cut, the shavings come off with a twist type curl. I can get the same cut with Doug Thompson's fluteless gouges, but I rub the bevel.
I won't be able to make it to Tampa. I am really disappointed, but have a conflicting event. Fishing trip to a conservation lake in NW Ontario Canada with my 90 year old/young Dad, a couple of brothers, brother in law, cousin in law, and a few others, or Tampa. Well, no thought to it, have to fish. I will be in Phoenix next year.
robo hippy
His inside cuts are off the bevel, can't remember about the outside cut so much.
Mm
So after all this you are agreeing it is easier to return a smooth surface?
Wow!
A few days you criticized the bevel riding push cut and then posted videos of the bevel riding push cut as your preferred method.
Woodturning lacks a common language. But .....
I use the Ellsworth. Grind and get curled shaving when I do light cuts.Interesting thing is that with this high angle shear cut, the shavings come off with a twist type curl. I can get the same cut with Doug Thompson's fluteless gouges, but I rub the bevel
robo hippy
Al, I don't have pictures, but the two types of curls are very different. Can't really describe though. The high shear angle ones are like you grabbed the two ends and twirl them between your fingers several times. Not at all like any I can get with my standard gouges....