How to part off the base?

[John Torchick]

This is a "sort of" goblet that I have been sweating over for the last two days. Totally new to inletting or hollowing end grain or any grain, for that matter. Need to work on some of my interior technique as I left some tool marks. Posting a photo as how to part off part of the base on the left side. Plus, I want to recess the base a bit so it will sit straight. Best way to part? How to hold the piece to recess the base? Many thanks to the forum!
Walt Wager was most helpful in getting started. Mike Waldt has a video that expanded on using various tools for inletting end grain. Thanks to both!!!!

 

[john lucas]

I assume.its between centers now. I use the parting tool.to get close. Then I use the toe of the skew and cut in as far as I can. Then I carve away the rest and use my drill.chuck in the headstock with sanding discs to finish it. You can just leave.off the skew and sand a lot more after using the parti g tool.

 

[john lucas]

Here is a video I made showing using the skew to clean up end grain.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZVlhr9fLCM&t=359s

 

[Tom Albrecht]

Can you re-post that photo, or describe exactly where you want to part that piece?

If you have room and material to spare on the left, make a relief cut by parting down to about one quarter inch with a 1/8" tool close to where you want the finished bottom. Then, with light tail stock pressure, use the narrowest parting tool you have to part in on slight angle to the right as you simultaneously hold your left hand loosely around the piece in order to catch it when it comes off. A bit of hand sanding will be required to smooth out the bottom. Using a thin saw blade when you want a recess is not an option.

 

[John Torchick]

Tom, want to part the left end just about even with the left of the "READ THIS FIRST" sign. Only have a 1/4" parting tool...for now. The headstock has a multi-tooth center, FYI.

 

[Dean Center]

John, in order to hollow the end grain, you will need to chuck up the base end. It's really important when you have something hanging out that far, to have a really well made tenon. The face of the chuck jaws need to make solid, uniform contact with the perfectly square and flat end of the piece. Keep that in mind as you plan your parting off.

If this is something you haven't done before, 5 minutes with one of the coaches from your local club would save a lot of grief.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

That's cool, the 1/4" tool will work okay. So you'll make a part straight in, then start another parting cut angling your way slightly to the right to get your dished bottom. A sharp tool is important, high speed is NOT.

 

[John Torchick]

Sharp tools are a necessity. I have been watching a DVD by Lyle Jameison on bowl turning. He says if you think the tool needs sharpening, you are overdue for sharpening. Got a lot going today so I might have some time tomorrow or Sunday to finish this turning. Got some others in mind, too. Thanks for the replies.

 

[Mike Johnson]

If you have an adjustable chuck you can cut a tenon on the top or bottom of the piece between centers and then move the piece into the chuck and work on the top or bottom profile.
This simplifies the parting process as the piece is firmly mounted in the chuck to avoid the rookie mistake of letting the piece bounce off the floor when parting off. If you are hollowing this piece you will want it mounted in the adjustable chuck to allow your end grain hollowing or drilling with the tailstock mounted Jacobs chuck. You can turn a tenon the proper size and part it most of the way with your parting tool and finish cutting it off with a hand saw, this reduces the rookie mistake of bouncing the piece off the floor when parting the work piece when the lathe is running. With practice you will be able to part pieces off on the lathe while it is running but that usually takes time to develop the skills and control to run the parting tool and hold onto the piece while it is turning on the lathe.

 

[John Torchick]

Part is already hollowed, just need trimming. Have a couple of ideas based on replies and from my own mind (scary, isn't it?).

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

There are several steps involved in the process, the first has already been mentioned and that is to first mount it in a 4 jaw scroll chuck and what I would add is you should have enough excess material as in the photo to work on the under side of the base. The piece in the upper left of the photo is what is left over. The bases on the goblets are deeply under cut such that the outer rim is the only thing contacting the surface.