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How to properly use parting tools on the wood lathe by Dick Sing

Well, trying to remember, but the fluted parting tools, the ones with the hollow grind on the bottom, I was told they should be used with the flute up rather than down like he uses it here.
Don't know for sure. That is the way I always used them. I do tell people that when using them, you should cut on a tangent to the cylinder.

robo hippy
 
Great video!

Using a peeling cut on some woods leaves a ragged edge because some surface fibers get lifted and torn.
Most of the time this doesn’t matter.

If I do want a cleaner edge, I use a Stewart batty trick and start the cut with the point down.
This begins as sort of a negative rake scraper. Pushing the handle down transitions to the peeling cut.
trim.83C551BB-9B2E-4034-A2FA-66911E2AB926.gif
 
A tool I’ve only used a few times. This was useful advice. Thanks for sharing it. Now to find that monster parter with the carbide for bowl hollowing?
 
robo hippy said:
Well, trying to remember, but the fluted parting tools, the ones with the hollow grind on the bottom, I was told they should be used with the flute up rather than down like he uses it here.
Don't know for sure. That is the way I always used them. I do tell people that when using them, you should cut on a tangent to the cylinder.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
I have one of those, that I don't like, so I did a dive recently trying to figure it out. All the manufacturers I looked at, and most of the people that have them (lots of threads online) say to use them flute down. I still don't like it.
 
I've been using the Nick Cook fluted parting tool.....and, here's my take on it's use.

I use this tool with the flute up. I'm using this tool with a ground bur, and by putting it within the flute, this makes it easy to resharpen the tip using a diamond hone while preserving the ground bur. I guess I must use this parting tool 10x times, re-honing after each use, before I return it to the grinder.

Sing also suggests using the parting tool while beginning the cut with the handle down. In my case, I start the cut very delicately with the cutting edge pointing directly towards the center.....and, THEN, AFTER THE CUT HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED, the handle can then be lowered into the peeling cut. I noticed Dick Sing had a slight "slip" in the video when initiating the cut, and this is the problem with starting the cut with the handle lowered. A little slip like this is much more likely when establishing the cut with the handle lowered. This is unacceptable to me, because I'm parting a waste block away from a finished bowl.......one little slip like this on a finished bowl, would be a disaster!

-o-
 
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@odie
As always, helpful info. Moving sideways, what do you use to attach your waste blocks and do you use brown paper between the two woods? Thanks.
 
Alan Weinberg said:
@odie
As always, helpful info. Moving sideways, what do you use to attach your waste blocks and do you use brown paper between the two woods? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Howdy Alan.....I'm using Titebond without any paper between the wasteblock and bowl. The wasteblock is parted, leaving a strip of about 1/16" of the wasteblock still attached. The bowl is then reverse mounted, and what's left of the wasteblock is turned away while the foot is formed.

I did use some newspaper between the wasteblock and bowl way back in the beginning, but didn't have good success doing it that way.

(Does anyone remember having a stack of newspapers? :) )

-o-
 
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odie said:
Howdy Alan.....I'm using Titebond without any paper between the wasteblock and bowl. The wasteblock is parted, leaving a strip of about 1/16" of the wasteblock still attached. The bowl is then reverse mounted, and what's left of the wasteblock is turned away while the foot is turned.

I did use some newspaper between the wasteblock and bowl way back in the beginning, but didn't have good success doing it that way.

(Does anyone remember having a stack of newspapers? :) )

-o-
Click to expand...
What's a Newspaper?:)
 
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