How to secure this lathe

[Raif Harik]

Hi, I'm getting a new laguna lathe. My shop is ... well, it's basically got a dirt floor. So I was going to get some 6x6 PT lumber, and set them in the ground 4-5" then bolt the lathe down to those. So, question is a) does that sound like a good idea? and b) should I go long ways so one side of both legs attaches to one 6x6 or short ways so one 6x6 per leg?
Thanks,
R

 

[Charlie Knighton]

imho u should dig 4 holes like 10 x 10 x10
buy some bags of cement and mix in hole....use 2 x 4 & level to balance level

 

[Mark Jundanian]

should I go long ways so one side of both legs attaches to one 6x6 or short ways so one 6x6 per leg?

Take a look at where you put your feet when you turn. You can lay down a piece of cardboard or 'two by' lumber to mimic where your 6x6 is going to be and see if it's in the way (or maybe a convenient foot rest).

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Can you pour a pad of concrete where you want to place the lathe? You can even buy precast pieces like for setting an air conditioner on. I think you'll appreciate a solid footing.

 

[Bob Sheppard]

I'd go with the concrete pad, like others have suggested.
But if you do use the 6x6s, I'd suggest drilling through them, and then driving some rebar through them and a foot or more into the ground, to anchor the timbers. Doing it at an angle would be a good idea, to help reduce lifting up.

 

[Robert D Evans]

The problem I see is that you will need a way to level your lathe. If it's not level, the bed will twist and the headstock will be out of line with the tailstock. I think the constant vibration of the lathe will cause it to settle on dirt and get out of alignment pretty quickly. Pressure treated lumber is notorious for moving, cracking and twisting as it drys. Pouring a concrete pad to put the lathe on is going to be the best solution. Get it as close to level as possible but you will have individual leg adjustments to fine tune it. It's probably not necessary to bolt it down. You can just add weight (sand bags) on a shelf between the legs as ballast.

It's probably time to break out the wheelbarrow.

 

[Raif Harik]

I'm not sure what the feet of this thing look like, but I'm presuming that they will have some sort of leveling device which I can use even if I switch the foot out for a bolt. And as I write this that seems less and less certain. But I'm sure there's a way.
That said I could get two 30x30x3 concrete air conditioner pads for ~120. I've never poured a slab before I don't know if that would be easier that getting the slabs. Lastly I know they put pier and beam houses on those 10x10 cylindrical concrete tubes. And those would be pretty easy to do. but then my target would only be a 10" inch circle. I don't know if I'll find that to be a problem.
R

 

[Gary Beasley]

Pouring a concrete pad is not that hard, mixing the concrete is the hardest part. I had a decent size project several years ago and bought a mixer from Harbor Freight, still have it. You can also rent one pretty cheap and be worth the money. Just be sure to build a base up with gravel for drainage and do the piers to prevent settling. You can probably find plenty of videos online detailing how to build a secure pad. If you shed is not too big why not pour a full floor?

 

[Arkriver]

Ok, assume you get the lathe secure and level. Now, as you stand there and turn and move your feet around and sweep up chips and dirt you will start to develop a hole where you stand. So go ahead and pour a reasonable size pad. You will have chips in an area that may approach 10 x 10. I would pour a pad about that size. As is often said, do it right the first time. Allyn

 

[robo hippy]

Best bet would be a poured concrete pad, 4 inches thick, big enough for the lathe, and probably for you to stand on and walk around on. Compacted gravel under the pad. You could do 4 pier pads, and I would consider the extra work to about equal the extra cost of a full sized pad. I would not use the air conditioner pads. They also require a compacted base to sit on or they will settle over time. You might be able to get away with them, but dig them into the ground. Remove all loose dirt, add gravel, maybe some fine sand on top of the gravel to fill all voids, and add some water to help it settle, and a hand tamper will do an okay job, but to do it right, you need a compactor. You would need them to be level with each other as well. Again, the extra work for getting them is about equal to getting a full sized concrete pad. You can probably find one of those trucks that mix what you need on the spot, and they all probably have a list of contractors who can do small pads like what you will need. A 9 by 9 pad, 4 inches thick is one cubic yard of concrete. That is a lot to mix by hand, and the first part will be hard by the time you get to the last part.... I did residential concrete for 30 years.... Depending on the size of your shop, it may be reasonable to put the whole floor in. It doesn't hurt to ask. If it is covered and leak free, contractors love to have a job like this during rainy weather.

robo hippy