Anyone using these? Good - Bad - Fair - Partly cloudy ??? Notably cyroCut - which seems to be their brand name for M2 steel tools.
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Hurricane Gouges
- Thread starter Tony Giroux
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2021
- Messages
- 1,771
- Likes
- 1,585
- Location
- Roulette, PA
- Website
- www.reallyruralwoodworks.com
I got a Hurricane Cryo 1/2" spindle gouge (black handle) , holds its edge quite well (Although the way they polished the flute left the cutting edge at a negative rake for a while until it was finally sharpened away) If you need to buy several tools at once on a tight budget, Hurricane (And Benjamin's Best) are fairly decent brands for budget conscious, but if you are targeting a single specific tool (or replacement) then I'd recommend splurging - Carter & Sons, Thompson, D-Way, Robust are probably all excellent better quality brands - My experience with them has all been excellent , far better quality than the off brand names like Hurricane , Benjamin's Best, PSI, etc.
That said, I'd not say to not buy a Hurricane tool, (they're solid) but I'd strongly suggest if you were going for quality, then there is better out there.
That said, I'd not say to not buy a Hurricane tool, (they're solid) but I'd strongly suggest if you were going for quality, then there is better out there.
I only have one Hurricane non-cryo roughing gouge. It’s ok, but not as good as the Crown. Sorby, etc higher end tools. I also have one cryo tool. 1/4” parting tool. Can’t say there it that much advantage to the cryo tools. I don’t have much experience with either.
I have had concerns about Hurricane Tools and the skimpy amount of wood where the tool inserts into the handle. Without seeing what this one looks like, it's impossible to say if that concern is valid for this tool. Benjamins Best have a little more meat in that area, or did in the past.
You all are parroting what I was thinking. I usually use Sorby, Thompson, Carter, etc. But I'm looking for a new 1/2" spindle gouge and Phil's out of stock. I saw the Hurricanes on Amazon, but didn't know what they were worth. I'll look elsewhere. thanks for the tips.
I have 2 HSS Hurricane bowl gouges: 5/8” and 1/2” (the two in front). Not M2. Both work great for me. Hold their edges well, sharpens easily (straight 45 degree angle). Full round rod goes into the handle - don’t know what happens inside the handle.
I bought there set of 3 hss bowl gouges 8 years ago using mostly the 5/8 gouge. About 2 years ago I had to replace it as my primary gouge and regrind it to a bottom feeder because it was running out of flute for a fingernail grind. It served me well turning many bowls and hollow forms. It held its edge long enough that I could turn decent size bowls without having to resharpen. For the price they are a great value for someone that is not cranking out multiple bowls a day and is on a budget.
My daily-use 5/8" and 1/2" bowl gouges are Hurricane (non-M42). I bought them before I really knew much. They have been good gouges, but predictably, don't hold an edge as well as an M42, cryo, etc. They are good enough that I don't feel the need to replace them immediately.
I have a number of Hurricane gouges and have found them to be an excellent value. ie: I bought a Crown Ellsworth tool from a club member that didn't use and discovered that the Hurricane 5/8" bowl gouge I already owned was just as good for 1/3rd the price. same HSS steel. I have a Hurricane parting tool that's going on 12 years of use. I also have 4 scrapers and bought 5 sets of tools (5/8" BG, 1/4"BG, 1/2" scraper, parting tool and SRG) for student use in our intro to workworking classes. I highly recommend them.
I have a couple of Hurricane gouges (M2) and have had good luck with them. I bought a couple of Benjamin's Best scrapers and have had bad luck with the edge-holding. Since I am upgrading my lathe next week, I'll be upgrading my tool choices, too. I imagine that they will easily outlast me.
I was going to start by saying there are no bad gouges but I rephrase to there are very few bad gouges (I reference that by a fellow woodturner who brought his Benjamin's Best gouges over because he couldn't get them to cut). The sparks didn't look right and when I ran a file across them it was taking metal off. I told him to send them back. But for me there is 3 categories good, better and best. and that is M2, M42 and 10V/15V. Now I use nothing but the best. When you go to buy your first or your next gouge check the prices between the three and I don't believe you will find a whole lot of difference between the prices of each category. My advice is spend a little extra and get better or best.
I have some Hurricane spindle gouges and Ben's Best bowl gouges and scrapers. The gouges for both are ~10 years old, and I have a lot of BB scrapers old and recent as 2-3 years ago. I have a set of Japanese hardness test files. Both brands pass the Rc 60 file, and in use do fine. The BB bowl gouges have parabolic flutes, a real plus. I see the prices for Hurricane tools have increased significantly over the years, appearing to equal or exceed Crown tools, which I also have. Today BB tools appear to be at the top of the "hi value" tools - pretty damn good for the $.
For newer turners I recommend BB tools. These folks don't know what they don't know yet. They need to try different tool sizes, different grinds, learn how to sharpen, figure out what tools they use the most and what tools they don't use. Why use hi $ tools to sort through all of that? Gradually, as they figure out grinds and sharpening and a few particular tools they use all the time, go spend some $ on hi end tools. The cheaper tools are still there, ready to have a a different bevel angle or grind tried, or as an additional tool ready to go in the middle of a project.
For the more experienced who' learned all of the above, neither brand is a good choice. Personally I find Crown tools, specifically their Razor M42 series, to be a good combination of flute design (parabolic BG's), material - M42, flute/tool length, reasonably nice handles, at good prices (have a look at Hartville Hardware). Prices tend to be less than other mfrs unhandled tool prices. Others have posted several other very good brands. As far as what tool steel is best, good enough, etc, have a look at this
For newer turners I recommend BB tools. These folks don't know what they don't know yet. They need to try different tool sizes, different grinds, learn how to sharpen, figure out what tools they use the most and what tools they don't use. Why use hi $ tools to sort through all of that? Gradually, as they figure out grinds and sharpening and a few particular tools they use all the time, go spend some $ on hi end tools. The cheaper tools are still there, ready to have a a different bevel angle or grind tried, or as an additional tool ready to go in the middle of a project.
For the more experienced who' learned all of the above, neither brand is a good choice. Personally I find Crown tools, specifically their Razor M42 series, to be a good combination of flute design (parabolic BG's), material - M42, flute/tool length, reasonably nice handles, at good prices (have a look at Hartville Hardware). Prices tend to be less than other mfrs unhandled tool prices. Others have posted several other very good brands. As far as what tool steel is best, good enough, etc, have a look at this
I have an assortment of bowl gouges from bottom to mid-range. I haven't bought or even tried any of the top signature brands yet. I've had a quite a number of new turners in my shop and after some basics, I like to put a gouge in their hands and have them try it out. As they get used to making a cut, I have them try better quality gouges that are sharpened the same way. It's interesting to me, how many novice turners will pick out one they like; enough so they ask what brand, where to buy it.
Nobody picks Benjamins Best or Yellowhammer, but wonder if swapping the steel into a better handle would make a difference. The steel is likely inferior, but even their handles feel like lower density, lighter crap compared to handles on better tools.
So far, all almost all of my tools have been with handles, or the few that weren't got stuck into homemade handles. A better test would be to have a handle that would allow me to swap in different steel for a truer comparison.
Nobody picks Benjamins Best or Yellowhammer, but wonder if swapping the steel into a better handle would make a difference. The steel is likely inferior, but even their handles feel like lower density, lighter crap compared to handles on better tools.
So far, all almost all of my tools have been with handles, or the few that weren't got stuck into homemade handles. A better test would be to have a handle that would allow me to swap in different steel for a truer comparison.
You may have seen this before but maybe some haven't. I have more tools without handles than with - make inserts like this, lets me store more tools in a smaller space than if they had handles. (Why so many identical tools? I can swap for a sharp one before stopping to set up the jig and sharpen the lot.)
Years ago I bought some inserts but I didn't like several things about them so I started making my own. (They are a LOT cheaper to make than to buy!)
These can be turned on the wood lathe with woodturning tools. For a club demo a few years ago I wrote a document on how to, brought some aluminum blanks. I know some who are still making them.
JKJ
Those look great, but I think I'd prefer a tool-less design. I'm thinking something with a sleeve/cap and have both parts with very slightly off-center holes for a twist lock. I haven't made a mockup yet, (I also have a metal lathe in my other shop) but it can't be too hard to figure out.
Agreed, these tools go the heart of wood turning, daily use in a variety of wood and projects. OK they wont make you a better turner, but you will be less frustrated, no good battling technique, poor handles and lousy steel that wont hold an edge.
I like this idea although I dont have any at present , the insertion length always looks a bit short to me . I like atleast 75mm or 3". The double locking screws may make it a bit fiddly perhaps, but nothing comes loose with double screws.
You can easily make the insertion length anything you want. This length is just right for my use. Someone turning big wood with gusto might want something beefier.
I have also mentioned this before: I drill a deep smaller diameter hole down inside the handle for excess tool shaft. That way as the tool gets shorter from sharpening I can still keep the amount extended the same, to what I found works best for me. I dislike a LONG amount of the tool extended past the end of the handle.
For small diameter tools (eg. 1/4") I sometimes to make the inserts on the metal lathe from steel instead of aluminum. This lets me use smaller set screws with finer threads.
Large diameter tools (5/8" or so) get larger inserts. This one is from a brass rod I found at the scrap yard.
I keep T-handle hex keys stuck to my lathe with magnets so loosening/tightening the set screws is quick and easy.
Some handles with inserts. (I didn't make but bought the third one from the left. I think the metal diameter is much too big for the 1/4" tool shaft. I made the other two on the left, the smaller one from steel lets me comfortably hold the handle close to the tool rest. I also think the fourth one from the left for a 3/8" tool is too big for comfort - both of those from the same person, they made them all from 1" round stock. It was after using these I decided to make my own.
Also, I'm a huge fan of short handles for detail work, especially on spindles.
BTW, I'm imagining securely tightening a keyless twist lock might depend somewhat on hand strength and fairly large diameter knurled parts. Set screws can be secured or removed with the T-handle-hex key held between thumb and forefinger. I do grind most set screws shorter to fit better in small inserts - hold them in a T-handle snd rotate against a grinding wheel.
Back on topic - many of my tools are Thompson and Hunter; these handles don't care what type or brand of tool they hold!
JKJ
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Lol, yes I turn a lot of hardwood and no doubt this effects my handles. But I take your point, its horses for courses. The idea of having handles with multiple tools is something I agree with and the only difference is my handles are foam covdered stainless tube. But yes I have and do the same
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Oh, are they like the old Monster tool handles? I have several of those, some long. Wonderful handles, especially for big turning. When ordering I had the back end of one drilled for a different diameter tool - one handle, two sizes.
I can only imagine what it would cost to mail the Monster handles today. I have or had two, I know there is at least one in the cabinet. But they are heavy.