I didn't get that memo?

[Sam Fleisher]

I've been making some bead embellished platters and bowls and experimenting with different finishes to try to preserve the color.

I have one where after the finish darkened the wood my color almost disappeared because it blended in so I sent a email to the manufacture with questions and this is what I received today.

"As Pitt Artist Pens were not designed to be used on wood, we don't have any specific information on how the pens interact with polyurethane or acrylic finishes after they've dried. Generally, the Pitt Artist Pen is permanent on porous surfaces but applying it with either could weaken the pigment and cause it to bleed, run or fade, and over a finished surface could lead to issues with adhesion, and it may rub off easily. We would have to recommend testing for the desired effect before proceeding with your project."

Specifically I wondered about using the pens on top of a wood finish like poly or acrylic and if it would stick.

So, have I been doing it wrong and you just put your color on the beads and leave it unprotected?

Also, isn't paper made from wood?

 

[Jim McLain]

Sam - I have always used them on bare wood without any problems. Historically I always sprayed the inked area with Krylon matte but recently tried danish oil over an inked area without any problems. Would not have tried danish oil but Curt Fuller has used it regularly without problems.

 

[William Rogers]

About the same a Jim. I have also use lacquer (rattle can spray) without problems, but recently switched to Krylon acrylic spray. The make several different sheens and some contain UV inhibitors. I am going to try the Danish oil next.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

Thats what I have been using is mostly a rattle can acrylic clear coat, satin and gloss. And also some wipe on poly. But I do like watco danish oil on my bowls so I'll give that a shot.

I just thought the "bead colors" from the markers needed some kind of film protection because that's what i've seen used in different videos.

I was kind of surprised by the politician type answer from the manufacturer representative. Lots of words but committed to nothing. Basically you're on your own...

 

[Richard Coers]

The solvent of the fluid in the marker is the issue. Use an alcohol based ink marker and shellac becomes an issue. Alcohol or water based ink will very easily wick into the cells of the bare wood.