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I tried my Lyle Jamieson System

David Wyke

David Wyke

Joined
Nov 22, 2023
Messages
521
Likes
3,931
Location
Morganton, NC
Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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David Wyke said:
Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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Hi David, Thanks for sharing the photos. Great piece, beautiful shape. I wish my first hollow form looked that good. You picked a very difficult shape for the first piece using the captured boring bar. With the small entry hole and flat top there is a fiddle factor to reach it all. You can do any shape you like but some just take a lot more time to reach the entire inside shape with a nice clean surface. And the need to use all three of the reach capabilities of the hollowing system. Did you use the swivel cutter in the other end of the boring bar with the 45 degree hole, to get way over to the largest diameter?? May I suggest you review my DVD again and consider using a faceplate. A chuck is a weak link that might lead to some vibration issues with vessels that size. Keep in touch.
 
Bent hollowing bars make that easier. I have both the Jamieson and a DIY articulated hollowing system that was based on the KOBRA design. I've worked through 5/8" holes with the KOBRA design and some custom tool bars. You can also hollow through the bottom and fill that hole with a plug of wood taken from the same blank. Then you can show a 1/4" hole in the top if you want to. There is also the late John Jordan's technique to hollow through a larger hole, then add a contrasting material to make a collar with a smaller opening.
 
Lyle Jamieson said:
Hi David, Thanks for sharing the photos. Great piece, beautiful shape. I wish my first hollow form looked that good. You picked a very difficult shape for the first piece using the captured boring bar. With the small entry hole and flat top there is a fiddle factor to reach it all. You can do any shape you like but some just take a lot more time to reach the entire inside shape with a nice clean surface. And the need to use all three of the reach capabilities of the hollowing system. Did you use the swivel cutter in the other end of the boring bar with the 45 degree hole, to get way over to the largest diameter?? May I suggest you review my DVD again and consider using a faceplate. A chuck is a weak link that might lead to some vibration issues with vessels that size. Keep in touch.
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Thanks Lyle! I didn’t use the 45* bar but thought about it. I knew this was not the piece to start with but I’m hardheaded😁. I figured I’d see just how good I could do for a first attempt. I used every fiddle factor you show except the 45*😁. The maple was not a hard turn so I decided to give the chuck a go instead of the faceplate. I’ll use the faceplate for the next one and try an easier shape. The system works great and very happy with it, I just need more practice.
 
Richard Coers said:
Bent hollowing bars make that easier. I have both the Jamieson and a DIY articulated hollowing system that was based on the KOBRA design. I've worked through 5/8" holes with the KOBRA design and some custom tool bars. You can also hollow through the bottom and fill that hole with a plug of wood taken from the same blank. Then you can show a 1/4" hole in the top if you want to. There is also the late John Jordan's technique to hollow through a larger hole, then add a contrasting material to make a collar with a smaller opening.
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I’m sure once I turn a few it will get easier and then go to more challenging pieces. I’ve seen the hollowing through the bottom and plugging but really don’t want to go that way. I like a challenge and can’t wait to try my next form.
 
For a wide hollow form, that's a really good result. Impressive. It took me about 8 years to feel competent as a wood turner, and another 5 to get over doing things the hard way. You're on your way!
 
Dean Center said:
For a wide hollow form, that's a really good result. Impressive. It took me about 8 years to feel competent as a wood turner, and another 5 to get over doing things the hard way. You're on your way!
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Thank you, I have been turning for about 5 years however only halfway knew what I was doing for the last 2-1/2 years after finally watching some videos. Self taught and have a passion for turning( no longer build hobby furniture😁). The hollow form is something I really want to conquer and then get into more artistic pieces.
 
David Wyke said:
Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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Great form on this piece, would love to see the bottom when finished!
 
David Wyke said:
I’m sure once I turn a few it will get easier and then go to more challenging pieces. I’ve seen the hollowing through the bottom and plugging but really don’t want to go that way. I like a challenge and can’t wait to try my next form.
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Nothing wrong with going through the bottom. This one is 6" tall and weighs 2.9 ounces. 5/16" hole in the top. Pictures of the form and the bottom
 

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Turned my second and third hollow forms today, both cherry.
First one I’m not happy with the shape but it was for practice. I was able to keep the walls a uniform thickness and measures 6-1/4 x 7-1/2.
Second one was harder but I kept the thickness uniform and used every piece of Lyle’s system 😁, measures 7/1/4 x10-1/4.
I’ve have a long ways to go but starting to get the hang of it.
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Like Lyle said, it takes some fiddling with all the options supplied with his system to figure out what configuration is best for various areas. Your forms look pretty good to me. The more you do the better you get.
 
David Wyke said:
Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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I used the Stewart system bar for the piece to the left. The part is RS210 made by Sorby: https://federatedtool.com/robert-sorby-rs210-reversible-hooker-for-rs2000-system/

Oneway makes something similar: https://www.thewoodturningstore.com...-with-cutter-for-the-oneway-hollowing-system/

I don't know whether either of these would fit Lyle's system but I've made several similar bars for smaller openings from hot-rolled steel bars.
 
Graham Dolby said:
I used the Stewart system bar for the piece to the left. The part is RS210 made by Sorby: https://federatedtool.com/robert-sorby-rs210-reversible-hooker-for-rs2000-system/

Oneway makes something similar: https://www.thewoodturningstore.com...-with-cutter-for-the-oneway-hollowing-system/

I don't know whether either of these would fit Lyle's system but I've made several similar bars for smaller openings from hot-rolled steel bars.
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Not sure if they would fit. Lyle has a 45* on one of the bars and it really helps with the reach.
 
What Richard said - I usually just go by what I think it is worth to me, considering the wood, my time, and just by how it looks (Do I think it's pretty, etc.) - If it doesn't sell by the last market of the year, I appraise it for whether I feel it is good enough to go to the artisan center (and add a bit of markup to it) , otherwise I set it out next year with a marked down price. On the other hand, If they seem to sell quickly I will bump my starting prices up a touch, until it seems people will *almost* buy it but see the price and put it back down, then I can back off on it a bit. In other words, it is a moving target, no set formula.
 
Brian Gustin said:
What Richard said - I usually just go by what I think it is worth to me, considering the wood, my time, and just by how it looks (Do I think it's pretty, etc.) - If it doesn't sell by the last market of the year, I appraise it for whether I feel it is good enough to go to the artisan center (and add a bit of markup to it) , otherwise I set it out next year with a marked down price. On the other hand, If they seem to sell quickly I will bump my starting prices up a touch, until it seems people will *almost* buy it but see the price and put it back down, then I can back off on it a bit. In other words, it is a moving target, no set formula.
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I do a similar pricing but use the basic formula as a starting point for bowls. I was just wondering if there was a basic starting point for hollow forms.
 
DON FRANK said:
I'm pretty sure I can speak for most of us. I wish my first three hollow forms looked that nice.
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Thank you! I figured by starting with a tougher shape I could learn more even if it took me longer to complete. Some great looking hollow forms on this site and I know I have a lot more to learn. Since I have about 120 bowls drying I thought this would be a good time to start learning hollow forms!
 
Ric Williams said:
Just curious, what finish did you use on the completed ones? They all look great!
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I applied two coats of Tried and True Danish Oil, once dry I applied 3 coats of satin lacquer. The fourth coat was semi gloss which I picked up by mistake and after this photo was taken I applied another coat of satin to bring the sheen down some.
 
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