Inboard NR scraper recommendation?

Scott Luallin · 2025-09-02T01:13:02-0400

Hi all!

I have been working on the Bird's Beak natural edge bowl I posted in "what's on your lathe" thread. The outside is done, sanded to 320 and will be finished with Tried and True. Looks like it will be a nice piece.

The inside, however, is deep. Bowl is too narrow for my current bowl gouges. I am WAY WAY WAY out over my rest for carbides (which I am trying to avoid), which keep grabbing like hell. I am a newbie - 8 months on the lathe.

Seems like a good use for an inside NR scraper??? Any recommendations under $100? I have a slow speed grinder and CBN so can shape and sharpen.

--Scott

Scott Luallin · 2025-09-02T01:17:36-0400

Bowl in question. Mineral oil sneak peak on the outside is awesome. (this pic is unfinished, of course)

Kent Reisdorph · 2025-09-02T08:27:07-0400

I use a 5/8" bowl gouge ground to a micro bevel (aka bottom feeder). You can read about it here: https://turnawoodbowl.com/micro-bevel-gouge-wood-bowl-secret-weapon/ . The 5/8 shaft helps with stability. I also turn my long tool rest sideways to get inside the bowl. I have tried to use curved tool rests but I just can't get used to them.

Mark Jundanian · 2025-09-02T09:55:59-0400

Yes, turn your tool rest to get it farther into the bowl. I prefer a "J" shaped tool rest for this sort of application. (But lately I've been loving the "Finial Rest" from Advanced Lathe Tools for deep light work).

A NRS is most commonly used to smooth the surface, very like a cabinet scraper in flat work. But a NRS still needs tool rest support near the action. If I was trying to remove material a NRS would not be the first tool I would think of.

If you had one, a hollowing rig could really help here.

robo hippy · 2025-09-02T10:53:48-0400

NRSs are for very minimal clean up, and not for heavy stock removal like roughing cuts on bowls. For me, I use the 40/40 grind for most of my bowl stock removal, well, after the scrapers have done the job, and then clean up cuts with gouges. Since that one is deep, it may not be easy. A more pointed nose gouge could go down the side fairly well, but you would need a BOB (bottom of bowl) gouge to make the transition and across the bottom. The carbide scrapers will only get you so far. If you have some of Mike Hunt's cup shaped carbide cutters, they can do the job.

robo hippy

Scott Luallin · 2025-09-02T14:45:31-0400

Thanks guys!

I was to use my swept back gouge and a bottom feeder for 80% of the inside of the bowl. I had to go to round carbide for the last 20% or so, mostly smoothing out the bottom of the bowl transition. The wings on the bowl make it almost impossible to get a nice, smooth, complete cut all of the way down the side.

So I am done removing bulk material, I just want to remove some tool marks and smooth the inside out a bit more before I start sanding.

thanks for the feedback!

--Scott

Mark Jundanian · 2025-09-02T16:13:49-0400

Scott Luallin said:
, I just want to remove some tool marks and smooth the inside out a bit more before I start sanding.

Then a NRS could be a good choice.

Dean Center · 2025-09-02T17:30:01-0400

And you don't have to spend $100. You can take an inexpensive M2 skew or scraper and reshape/regrind it into a very serviceable NRS. M2 will not keep a burr very long, but you probably won't appreciate the difference from more expensive steel at this point in your journey, and the saved few seconds will probably not be worth the doubled or tripled price for the tool.

Darryn Achall · 2025-09-02T22:47:13-0400

For something that deep I sometimes set up the articulating arm captured hollower with a negative rake scraper on the bar. Takes a few minutes to set it up but eliminates almost all the risk.