Is an inexpensive chainsaw a bad choice?

[Webb Willmott]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

 

[Doug Freeman]

Good question, interested to here from folks that have had the ~$125 saw. There are many more of those available today than 10 yrs ago when I bought a Jonsered (which has been a good one).

 

[Brian Gustin]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Depends. - A lot can depend on how often it may be used, and how "savvy" you are (They want you to run 25:1 mix , but that tends to assume a non-chainsaw oil... I run a 50:1 mix oil mixed at closer to a 40:1 mix ratio) Be aware, they are gas hogs - you'll use 3 times as much fuel to do the same work. (can you tell I got one? a Dereal brand) However, for the amount of use I put on one, it'll probably last as long as I do... If I was going to be out cutting (I.E. Firewood) near daily basis all day long, I'd spend for the known brand (Echo is my preferred brand, BTW, I'd splurge on a CS-590 Timberwolf, or a CS-680)

 

[Nate Hawkes]

You have to consider how much it costs, and how much you're willing to put up with in terms of servicing. For example, I own a commercial Stihl MS-361. In the time I've owned it, I've put hundreds of hours on it. I have replaced the air filter and spark plugs, and sprocket gears. All wearable parts, and quite inexpensive. My father has gone through two farmboss Stihl saws. He ended up spending more on two saws than I did for my one commercial saw. I realize you're not trying to spend $700 on a saw, but I would buy it again.

 

[john lucas]

I have found cheap saws hard to start. My husky has always started easily.

 

[Dwayne Watt]

The question in my mind becomes whether or not you want to be disposing of a saw the day you really, really need it. Low end chainsaws tend to be finicky (even so called name brands). An upper grade consumer saw from Stihl would be my choice for occasional wood cutting for turning or firewood. I gave away a low end, nearly new Echo I bought at an estate sale (pure trash, the saw, not the sale) that simply was not worth the constant irritation of fighting to get it started and running for the occasional needs I have.

 

[Dave Hulett]

I've been using an Oregan electric saw for years. I love it. no maintenance, always starts, just plug in pull the trigger. has a built in sharpening system that really works. $125 on amazon.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Interesting ethical question. 4 clones made in China with a xx% likelihood of working as well as a name brand made in the EU or Japan under relatively strict manufacturing, labor and environmental standards. It probably pencils out for the occasional user if you ignore externalities. How do you feel about disposing of xx chainsaws that don't work out because you opted for the cheap ones? Are you up for buying one at a time, shitcanning it if it doesn't pan out and doing it again?

 

[Webb Willmott]

Husqvarna has 6 plants and Stihl has 2 plants in China which manufacture some saw models and saw parts used in production in other countries. It is an interesting ethical question without a clear answer.

I have no issues replacing an item that is intended to be disposable. I’m curious if the cheapie is junk or decent value when you consider it a disposable item.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Sometimes it's the little things about a cheap engine-type power tool that makes it junk in the end for anyone, but in particular it's market audience. Little things, like tiny oil reservoirs that crack and leak in the first few months, had one of those once. Or chain tensioners that need constant tention attention (as is the case in my otherwise great electric Oregon corded electric chain saw, made in China). My now 20+ yo Stihl 290 Farm Boss, it just runs, even if I don't use it very much at all these days.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Chainsaws are like lathes, I suggest you buy your last lathe first and the same goes for chainsaws.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I have no issues replacing an item that is intended to be disposable.

Regarding a substantial tool like a chainsaw as disposable doesn't sit right with me. I prefer to invest in tools designed to be reliable and repairable, not dumped in a landfill when their components give out. Just my $.02.

From a strict financial perspective the clones are probably a good deal on balance for an infrequent user. The good units seem to do the job at an attractive price. If you can get a good one out of every two or three and each one is 1/4 the cost of a name brand then you are ahead of the game.

 

[Webb Willmott]

Regarding a substantial tool like a chainsaw as disposable doesn't sit right with me. I prefer to invest in tools designed to be reliable and repairable, not dumped in a landfill when their components give out.

I absolutely agree. I would much prefer to place my hands on a better quality tool but more importantly I expect that tool to meet my expectations. If it meets or exceeds, I’m good and will toss without remorse when the time comes. Or better yet and leave it on the curb so one man can find a treasure that was my junk.

 

[robo hippy]

My first chainsaw was a Husky 365 or some number like that. I think I paid $400 or so for it. I needed a tune up and took it in and was told parts were months out, and would be about $400. Since it was 30 years old, I figured I could get a new one since I needed it right away. New one was over $1000! Same Husky model. My bar was new so I didn't have to pay for that. I did find out that it started differently. I traced the problem to the clear gas I was using. The price at the station had gone down, as had the octane level. I went back up to the higher octane and starting problems were gone. If you only use one in the shop, then an electric can be handy, and they have come a LONG way since I bought one, 20 or so years ago. Even the cordless ones are pretty good now. Check out Project Farm for tool reviews on cordless and corded saws. I will stick with my Husky. Many prefer Stihl. I see both a lot when watching arborists.

robo hippy

 

[Richard Coers]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Definitely bad for me, but I have no idea how much you use one. My old Stihl Farm Boss is at least 25 years old and has never been back to the shop.

 

[hockenbery]

I can buy 4 60cc 20” cheap saws for the price of a Stihl or Husky and can consider them disposable as opposed to servicing a more expensive saw at $100+ per hour and plus parts.

Good or bad choice?

Different tree removal crews I’m familiar with use either the throw away saws or the run forever Stihl products.
The advantage the tree removal crews have is they have backup saws on the truck.

I’d go with Stihl. If you use ethanol free gas the maintenance on the saw is pretty minimal.

As needed new sprocket, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, new bar.
Unless you cut a lot these are once a year jobs maybe every 2 years.
If you can operate a wrench and a screw driver you can do the maintenance.

 

[John K Jordan]

Depends. - A lot can depend on how often it may be used, and how "savvy" you are

I agree with this - how much use is expected and how good you are at taking care of it. I have 4 Stihls (one corded electric) and used to do a LOT of chainsawing. All have served me well - reliable, always start easily. I do my own service (I found a good general chainsaw book with a chapter specific to Stihls.

However, I have friends who saw more casually and they are happy with cheap saws but I think good care is important, even with a pro saw.

Use the good fuel, good oil at the right mix, keep the air filter clean (replace as needed) and clean the spark plug. Also, pay attention to the chain and sprocket, keep good chain oil in the tank. ALSO check that the oil is getting to the chain every time the saw is started - that the pump is not clogged with dirt/sawdust (clean the outside before removing the cap.)

Another thing I do is flip the bar occasionally to even the wear, file the bar to smooth as needed, and make sure the chain is not too loose in the rail from wear (I use a rail closer tool to tighten as needed). Also, check for wear on the sprocket as the chain ages and stretches. I tend to by sets of good chains and bars from Bailey’s Online.

Note that if a saw starts getting “cranky” it is usually pretty cheap to replace the carb.

I recently bought a couple of cordless electric Milwaukee saws, one a pole saw, for quick and “casual” sawing. What a great convenience!

JKJ

 

[David Shumaker]

Thats a great question. The chainsaws I use are a Stihl 064 and a Stihl 880. The 880 is used in a mill exclusively. Neither saw has given me any trouble or failed to start even after sitting for extended periods of time, The 064 was used routinely for cutting firewood for years. Both were purchased used at a savings from new. Considering the amount of work both have done I consider that money well spent, When the country "closed up" for covid I bought a clone 660 kit for less than $300. I put it together mostly as an exersize in learning small engine repair. It has not been a consistently reliable saw but since I assembled it perhaps the fault lies with me. It has helped me learn a bit about repairing small engines. That being said, I don't think that the savings on initial cost has outweighed the frustration of having a saw that may run well all day or may not. In my opinion the money would be better spent on a reliable saw from a reputable manufacturer that will not let you down if you by chance find a highly figured maple at the local log dump.

 

[Cary Hulse]

A couple of thoughts on this:

• The best brand is the one you can get quality service for. I've used both Husky and Stihl (and a few others) in a pro setting (logger and arborist) and they all make good saws. Moore important is having a trusted saw shop that can get you parts quickly. When I was logging in my youth, I had one of my saws fail to start one day (bad ignition module) and my local shop, knowing I made a living with my saw, pulled the part out of a new saw on the showroom floor just to get be back to work that morning. Customer for life (or at least until I moved away).
• Second thing to consider is that the big brands make both pro saws and homeowner saws. Nothing wrong with a homeowner grade saw as long as your expectations and intended usage suits it. But you get what you pay for.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I heat with wood, plus we are on a sort of abandoned one-lane county road. If we get a storm of some kind, help is not probably not coming if trees down over our road. Yes, my Husky 550xp was pricey, but I'm confident it will start and run strong when I really need it. It's also got plenty of power in a lightweight package. A cheap saw might be a bit heavier and/or not as powerful-- A sort of double whammy when having to run it for hours. I'm old enough that any way to make my work easier is a bonus.

I had a Stihl 026 before it that lasted me about 25 years. I could probably mess with it and get to run, but it just became a little too unreliable. Somehow Stihl changed the design, and despite keeping the same model number, there was a 2nd line of replacement parts. I had to have the saw and/or serial number to order parts. They never seemed to have parts in stock, and I really didn't care for the attitudes at the local Stihl dealer.

 

[Webb Willmott]

I appreciate all the responses and learned a lot from other’s responses. The adage of buy once cry once surfaces its head.

Decided to buy a pro line Stihl. I can afford any saw in the usage range needed but being a good steward of my money, I wanted the best bang for my buck. If I needed one for a one time use, I would buy a clone, but in the long term and multiple uses over several years, cheap is a bad buy. I don’t need a proline saw but there is a great deal of satisfaction of using a higher end tool.

- can’t get a Husky serviced because parts are hard to get
- Stihl can easily get serviced here
- Don’t like cheap tools. Buy cheap buy twice or more times
- Anti-vibe important
- Dependability, as in they just work years later
- Proline weigh less
- HP greater
- I can buy locally and support the local guy (major importance to me)

Why go coach when for a few bucks more you can go first class.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I would go with the first response. It kind of depends on your use of the saw. If you are going to put it to heavy duty and frequent use, I'd say a cheaper saw is likely to fail quickly. About a year ago, I bought my first chainsaw. I use a chainsaw infrequently and for lighter duty work, like cutting up branches or cutting small logs into blanks. Since I already had Dewalt's 20V Max battery system, I decided to buy a smaller Dewalt battery chainsaw. So far, it has had the power to do what I want it to do. For me, it was an experiment. I had the battery platform for several other Dewalt tools (one larger capacity battery) already. My only outlay was for the Dewalt bare tool chainsaw. I saw that saw only for around $200 but, when I bought it, it was on sale for less. If that works and it ultimately wears out, I would try something a bit larger and, if possible, stick with the Dewalt battery system.

Again, though, if I was doing heavy duty sawing or using it to cut up larger logs into blanks, I most likely would have gone for something like Stihl. Whatever you do, you might want to consider cordless chainsaws. These days they get better and better. The fact that they require less maintenance probably makes them a good consideration. Plus, the tests I've seen between comparable battery powered saws and gas powered seem to show power isn't really any different.

So, in the end, consider what your use is. Then do a little research online. There are a lot of tests (some good and some not) which may not make your decision for you but will help you understand what you might need and what you sure don't want.