Is redwood always so soft?

[Michael Nathal]

Being from Ohio, I don't see redwood very often. But I did get a piece (normal wood, not burl) from another turner recently. I turned a platter from the piece, and the curl/chatoyance is excellent. The piece just glows. But, twice now, after fully sanding and ready to finish, I did a final inspection and see dents, scratches, etc. The wood is so soft, it doesn't take much: fingernails, or perhaps just sneezing in the same room. Much softer than pine or boxelder, other woods that I consider "soft." So is this typical? Is there any way short of resin infiltration to make the surface more durable? Will WOP provide some hardness to the surface?

 

[John Hicks]

Yes, it is soft! I live in Northern California and have access to a bunch of Redwood. I turned a platter and found it to be very soft, easy to tear out, not to mention a lumpy texture; But, that color and grain are worth it. My friend gave me a couple slabs meant for live edge table tops......needles to say, they are being cut into circles.
For a finish, I'd recommend resisthane, it hardens the wood a bit and can be cut with denatured alcohol and applied like a friction polish.

 

[robo hippy]

I think you got it right when you said "just sneezing in the same room". The burl is a bit better, but not much. Also, like fir, pine, cedar, and others, there is a big difference between early and late wood in the growth rings. You can get an aged look, with raised late wood growth rings with a light sand blasting with walnut shell bits. Not sure what beach sand would do to it....

robo hippy

 

[Odie]

I've turned about a dozen bowls out of Redwood burls, and it always does seem very soft.

It has some similar characteristics to walnut, in that it cuts easier than harder woods, but sanding, ready to apply a finish, is a bit more difficult.

It is important to use random orbit in the final stages of sanding.

-----odie-----

 

[Doug Freeman]

Will WOP provide some hardness to the surface?

Havent turned redwood but have turned other soft punky wood. I’m becoming a fan of using resin cut 1:1 with acetone and brushing it on. Takes poly a lot longer to cure out. Have to have excellent ventilation - I take it outside. Icut the piece down to ~1/8” or so of the wall thickness desired, apply the resin, cure, then finish cut the surface to remove problems.