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Is this a new grinder platform? Anyone tried it?

J

JeffSmith

Joined
Aug 6, 2009
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Lummi Island, WA
Stumbled across this grinder platform - actually, saw an ad on FB for it (one of those that just shows up in your feed. Looks to be well made, decent design, there’s an option to fit wolverine base. Has anyone actually seen one? I’m very happy with the Robo Rest I’ve been using for the past several years, so not in the market, but have seen discussions on alternatives since Robo got out of the business.

www.rightanglenow.com

TALON - Rail Mount | Right Angle

The TALON, rail-mount (rail mount for use with the OneWay rail system), offers very fast, easy, accurate repeatability for 32 grinding angles using increments within 2 degrees. The range is from about 22 degrees to about 70 degrees depending on the mount and tilt adjustment. A skew adapter is...
www.rightanglenow.com www.rightanglenow.com

Not easy to locate the Wolverine mount option, but its there…there’s also another version with six or so adjustable presets.
 
I have one of those setup for the Wolverine base. It works well for me. You mark your individual tools with the number that represents the angle you wish to sharpen each time. It is a quick changeover (matter of seconds) between the Wolverine / vari-grind jig and this platform. Mike Waldt has a YouTube video if you wish to see it in use. The product ships from a small business in Iowa.
 
I can't remember their name right now. They had 2 versions of this rest displayed at SWAT last year. One has long screws with nuts that you adjust for your particular grind and tool. There are about 8 of them. the other one is just like the one pictured above. very solid and high quality. Had I not modified my Kodiak rest with more holes to fit every 5 degrees I would have bought one of these. I think they are the best tool rest on the market right now.
 
Mike Waldt did a review of them on one of his videos. Here is a link:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNvKd3OMTLg


I ordered both the freestanding since I do all of my sharpening on a platform, and the Oneway compatible ones. They are a good piece of equipment. I think I would still prefer approximate angles. They do sit a little higher on the wheel than my robo rest did. They are a bit heavier metal stock than my rests were as well. Oh, first marketed as Right Angle platforms. I have tried to find the perfect angle for my plane irons and bench chisels, but it is kind of in between. I need to get the one with adjustable bolts set up so that angle can be a perfect 25 degrees.

robo hippy
 
I have had the talon version since last fall and love it. I use the Batty angle gauges to initially calibrate it. It’s well made and makes changing angles quick and very repeatable.
I took mine to Arrowmont last week for Rudy Lopez’ bowl class and I think everyone asked where to get one.
 
I am guessing his prices are in line with what metal costs would account for. I know they have really gone up. I was looking at an angled table for the drill press from Woodpeckers. It had geared teeth that were spring loaded on one side, and a cam lock on the other side. Lots of possibilities. I wrote to them about it and their response was "thanks for the feedback". I did get one just to look at it. I think it could be another step up from my robo rest. My rest was off by 5 degrees all the way through the scale, and I have no clue why. In theory, it should have been right, so 40 degrees is actually 35. I do sharpen plane irons on it, and the 25 degree setting is a bit off, but not by much....

robo hippy
 
I'm not sure if anyone is still looking at this but for the price of the talon I'm just thinking ill buy 4 wolverine platforms. I freehand all my tools so I could have each set up and just swap them like Glenn lucas does. Hose clamps as stoppers and then the platform locked into place permanently.
If anyone takes a look at this and has any input as to why that wouldn't be a good idea I'm all ears!
 
Andrew Hobbs said:
I'm not sure if anyone is still looking at this but for the price of the talon I'm just thinking ill buy 4 wolverine platforms. I freehand all my tools so I could have each set up and just swap them like Glenn lucas does. Hose clamps as stoppers and then the platform locked into place permanently.
If anyone takes a look at this and has any input as to why that wouldn't be a good idea I'm all ears!
Click to expand...
I use two platforms myself, one angle set for spindle roughing gouges and one set for bowl scrapers. I use stop collars instead of a hose clamp but same difference. I got the idea from someone on here.
 
Sam Fleisher said:
I use two platforms myself, one angle set for spindle roughing gouges and one set for bowl scrapers. I use stop collars instead of a hose clamp but same difference. I got the idea from someone on here.
Click to expand...
Got it! I just think for the price it's better..especially because then you can switch to different grit wheels if you have your wolverine setup identically spaced on both sides.
I'm cheap. And with a company like talon..it is a great idea. And it looks like it's made extremely well. I would just want two. And I can't justify spending that kind of money on platforms. Although I wish I could help support them. I've heard they're great people at the company as well.
 
I just bought the Right Angle Talon rail mount model two weeks ago. After I got it all adjusted for my grinder and dialed it in for my angles it works great. As Robo said above it sits a little higher on the wheel than my old one did. Rock solid and I use 7 different angles on the platform. I adjusted the depth stop if I ever need to remove it from the mount it will go back to the exact same spot. I made a chart at my grinder with the number of the hole that corresponds to the angles I use. It's quick and easy. It's kind of pricey but I think it's worth it. Takes about two seconds to change the angle.
 
Vincent Vogel said:
I just bought the Right Angle Talon rail mount model two weeks ago. After I got it all adjusted for my grinder and dialed it in for my angles it works great. As Robo said above it sits a little higher on the wheel than my old one did. Rock solid and I use 7 different angles on the platform. I adjusted the depth stop if I ever need to remove it from the mount it will go back to the exact same spot. I made a chart at my grinder with the number of the hole that corresponds to the angles I use. It's quick and easy. It's kind of pricey but I think it's worth it. Takes about two seconds to change the angle.
Click to expand...
That's all I hear..how great it is. I'm conflicted!
What grit do you have it set up on?
Is use 180 for my 4040 and spindles
And then 80 grit for the scrapers.
And then don't sharpen my skews so often. Hone them alot but don't sharpen often.
 
Andrew Hobbs said:
I'm just thinking ill buy 4 wolverine platforms
Click to expand...

I bought multiple Wolverine bases and platforms. If you haven't seen it, take a look at the Mini Platform:

oneway-mini-platform.jpg

Amazon.com: Oneway 3945 Mini Platform Assembly for Wolverine Sharpening System : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Oneway 3945 Mini Platform Assembly for Wolverine Sharpening System : Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com

These are what I use the most. They are especially handy when a tool has been sharpened so much over the years it's too short to fit on the standard platform. (I know there are workarounds)

JKJ
 
John K Jordan said:
I bought multiple Wolverine bases and platforms. If you haven't seen it, take a look at the Mini Platform:

View attachment 77293

Amazon.com: Oneway 3945 Mini Platform Assembly for Wolverine Sharpening System : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Oneway 3945 Mini Platform Assembly for Wolverine Sharpening System : Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com

These are what I use the most. They are especially handy when a tool has been sharpened so much over the years it's too short to fit on the standard platform. (I know there are workarounds)

JKJ
Click to expand...
Thank you! I was just thinking that earlier. But I tend to make my own ferrules out of steel pipe with two threaded holes for set screws. I really like being able to take out my tools for this very purpose. And it's easier with the big bowl gouges.
I really would like some of the quick twist adapters. But they're all so expensive. I can't justify the expense and I would want. 6 of them!
 
Andrew Hobbs said:
But I tend to make my own ferrules out of steel pipe with two threaded holes for set screws. I really like being able to take out my tools for this very purpose. And it's easier with the big bowl gouges.
Click to expand...

I do a similar thing with many tools, and often remove the tool from the handle when sharpening. I like to make these inserts so when the tool is new, some of the length will fit down inside the handle so as it gets shorter I can keep the exposed working length the same, far better for some detail work. This type of handle also lets you reverse the tool to protect the sharpened end while traveling for demos and classes.

The inserts work for any type of gouge with round shaft and many with square or rectangular shafts like large skews.

handle_adapters.jpg handle_adapter_extension.jpg finished_small.jpg

These are very inexpensive to make - just a few bucks for the material. I posted a document here on how to make them on a woodturning lathe with standard woodturning tools. I've had students make some.

shavings_IMG_20150420_12241.jpg

These can be made to fit any size tool. Saves buying more of the large commercial tool handles for big gouges.

Doug Thompson now makes handles with extra space inside. (and some other nice features)

I sharpen many tools by hand using just a platform. But, I have a number of older tools that were bought with permanent handles. Some of these are getting short so the small platform is helpful to me.

I looked at some of the quick adapters and decided they were not for me and the type of turning I do. Good thing we all don't like the same thing or life sure would be boring.

JKJ
 
John K Jordan said:
I do a similar thing with many tools, and often remove the tool from the handle when sharpening. I like to make these inserts so when the tool is new, some of the length will fit down inside the handle so as it gets shorter I can keep the exposed working length the same, far better for some detail work. This type of handle also lets you reverse the tool to protect the sharpened end while traveling for demos and classes.

The inserts work for any type of gouge with round shaft and many with square or rectangular shafts like large skews.

View attachment 77299 View attachment 77300 View attachment 77301

These are very inexpensive to make - just a few bucks for the material. I posted a document here on how to make them on a woodturning lathe with standard woodturning tools. I've had students make some.

View attachment 77302

These can be made to fit any size tool. Saves buying more of the large commercial tool handles for big gouges.

Doug Thompson now makes handles with extra space inside. (and some other nice features)

I sharpen many tools by hand using just a platform. But, I have a number of older tools that were bought with permanent handles. Some of these are getting short so the small platform is helpful to me.

I looked at some of the quick adapters and decided they were not for me and the type of turning I do. Good thing we all don't like the same thing or life sure would be boring.

JKJ
Click to expand...
Wow. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. This is infinitely better than the way I make my handles. And I think I can retrofit my handles to just use these now. Especially since I tend to make my handles a little long...

I'm still at that point where I don't like to remove too much wood. manifests in all aspects of my turning haha. I am getting better with it though.

I love Thompson tools. And he's amazing as well..I've now called multiple times with questions and he always answers and speaks to me for way longer than he has any obligation to.
I would like to purchase the handles but I'm cheap! I like just buying the steel.

I'm getting some aluminum today and will start making these tonight after my 4 yr old son goes down. I find your writeup.
Thank you again!
 
Andrew Hobbs said:
That's all I hear..how great it is. I'm conflicted!
What grit do you have it set up on?
Is use 180 for my 4040 and spindles
And then 80 grit for the scrapers.
And then don't sharpen my skews so often. Hone them alot but don't sharpen often.
Click to expand...
I have it set up on the 180 grit cbn. I use that grit for any gouge or scraper I have because I don’t have an 80 grit wheel yet to do scrapers. I might set another grinder up with 80 and 600 grit. I’m a firm believer in doing what works for you. Everyone has different likes and budgets.
 
If the Wolverine platforms had cut outs for the 1 1/2 inch wide CBN wheels, they would probably sell more. I did cut one out that way, and use it for a hollow grind on my chisels and plane irons.

robo hippy
 
Andrew Hobbs said:
I'm getting some aluminum today and will start making these tonight after my 4 yr old son goes down. I find your writeup.
Thank you again!
Click to expand...

You're welcome. I've been making these for years after I bought my first one from someone, can't remember who. It was fine but I think mine are better. 😁
All that were available at the time were made from 1" diameter stock. I thought this was silly for a 1/4" spindle gouge - for fine detail I like to hold the tool up close and the large diameter insert made this more awkward. However, for aluminum you do need a little extra thickness, not for strength on a small shaft, but to allow for enough threads for the set screws. (higher TPI set screws helps since there can be more threads in the metal - small tools don't need to be incredibly strong.) I ended up making some from steel for the 1/4" tools, easy since I have a little machine shop.

When I did a demo on these (in 2022) I took a bunch of aluminum pieces and was surprised at the number of people who wanted one. (There was also interest in smaller diameter brass pieces as used in the document for little feet on the lidded box.)

Aluminum is the easiest to turn. I usually buy from Online Metals but recently, on the suggestion of someone here, I bought a variety of sizes from here:

For drilling longer handles it helps to have a nice variety of drill bits. For most drilling on the wood lathe I've switched to taper shank bits unless I need special bits for deep holes. (Usually start with a short bit, then deepen the hole with a longer bit. Stubby bits are fantastically sturdy!) In case you haven't tried them, I found the hefty center drills are great for starting a hole in wood, especially to get a bit started right to minimize wandering in end grain.

center drills.jpg

JKJ
 
John K Jordan said:
I do a similar thing with many tools, and often remove the tool from the handle when sharpening. I like to make these inserts so when the tool is new, some of the length will fit down inside the handle so as it gets shorter I can keep the exposed working length the same, far better for some detail work. This type of handle also lets you reverse the tool to protect the sharpened end while traveling for demos and classes.

The inserts work for any type of gouge with round shaft and many with square or rectangular shafts like large skews.

View attachment 77299 View attachment 77300 View attachment 77301

These are very inexpensive to make - just a few bucks for the material. I posted a document here on how to make them on a woodturning lathe with standard woodturning tools. I've had students make some.

View attachment 77302

These can be made to fit any size tool. Saves buying more of the large commercial tool handles for big gouges.

Doug Thompson now makes handles with extra space inside. (and some other nice features)

I sharpen many tools by hand using just a platform. But, I have a number of older tools that were bought with permanent handles. Some of these are getting short so the small platform is helpful to me.

I looked at some of the quick adapters and decided they were not for me and the type of turning I do. Good thing we all don't like the same thing or life sure would be boring.

JKJ
Click to expand...
I did a search but couldn't find the document. Is it possible to share it again? Also, any recommendations on the stubby self centering bits? have tried a couple sets from Amazon but the tips tended to break with light pressure. Last question - amny tips on helpin to center the holes for the set screws? I have tried it on some round aluminum thick wall tube that I use for a handl. But seem to always be slightly off center.

Thanks
Ricc
 
Don’t forget a drop of oil when drilling metal. Or better yet Boelube is my go to when drilling. Having drilled hundreds of holes when building an aluminum airplane (and sometimes steel), it helps cut and saves your bits.

Use a punch so the bit won’t drift and gives a starting divot so you will drill where you want. A pilot hole also helps give the larger bit a guide and keeps the hole where you want.
 
Since I established a fool-proof way of sharpening my gouges, scrapers, and hollowing tools, I don't even look at new sharpening jigs or tools on the market (or even old ones). The only way I have found to perfect my sharpening skills is to find a method I'm comfortable with, jigs that give me good results, and then repeatedly use the method and tools/jigs until it's something I don't even have to think about. I'm not sure it matters what setup you use as long as you dedicate your sharpening time to using it..
 
Doug Freeman said:
If interested in the type of tool handle JKJ makes but would rather buy them, Cindy Drozda has them for $22 each.

Cindy Drozda - Tool Handle Adapters

Elegant, Exquisite, Museum Quality Lidded Finial Vessels and Urns hand made by Woodturner and Artist, Cindy Drozda. Woodturning instruction, Demonstrations and Instructional DVDs.
www.cindydrozda.com
Click to expand...
Ah I forgot about those. I'm going to see what the price of aluminum is and then see if it's worth my ti
Randy Heinemann said:
Since I established a fool-proof way of sharpening my gouges, scrapers, and hollowing tools, I don't even look at new sharpening jigs or tools on the market (or even old ones). The only way I have found to perfect my sharpening skills is to find a method I'm comfortable with, jigs that give me good results, and then repeatedly use the method and tools/jigs until it's something I don't even have to think about. I'm not sure it matters what setup you use as long as you dedicate your sharpening time to using it..
Click to expand...
That's what I'm looking for! I have two platforms and two grinders and 3 main angles I use often. And sharpen freehand so I can get repeatability at this point freehand I just want enough platforms that I can have 3 that are set exactly the same all the time and then a 4th as my play around one for when I sharpen specialty stuff and the top of nrs.
Or two platforms that do everything like the talon. At this point for $34 per wolverine platform I'm just going to the wolverine route and then I'll be there for the rest of my life haha.
 
John K Jordan said:
You're welcome. I've been making these for years after I bought my first one from someone, can't remember who. It was fine but I think mine are better. 😁
All that were available at the time were made from 1" diameter stock. I thought this was silly for a 1/4" spindle gouge - for fine detail I like to hold the tool up close and the large diameter insert made this more awkward. However, for aluminum you do need a little extra thickness, not for strength on a small shaft, but to allow for enough threads for the set screws. (higher TPI set screws helps since there can be more threads in the metal - small tools don't need to be incredibly strong.) I ended up making some from steel for the 1/4" tools, easy since I have a little machine shop.

When I did a demo on these (in 2022) I took a bunch of aluminum pieces and was surprised at the number of people who wanted one. (There was also interest in smaller diameter brass pieces as used in the document for little feet on the lidded box.)

Aluminum is the easiest to turn. I usually buy from Online Metals but recently, on the suggestion of someone here, I bought a variety of sizes from here:

For drilling longer handles it helps to have a nice variety of drill bits. For most drilling on the wood lathe I've switched to taper shank bits unless I need special bits for deep holes. (Usually start with a short bit, then deepen the hole with a longer bit. Stubby bits are fantastically sturdy!) In case you haven't tried them, I found the hefty center drills are great for starting a hole in wood, especially to get a bit started right to minimize wandering in end grain.

View attachment 77309

JKJ
Click to expand...
You're a wealth of info. Amazon comes clutch..I'm glad I didn't drive the 30 min down to metal supermarket yet. They have it but Amazon is cheaper! Go figure!
Stubbys and taper shank bits. I'm going to order some.
Those center starters are so clutch. I've made a few tools and when I started using those to get the hole started it made life significantly easier.
 
Ricc Havens said:
I did a search but couldn't find the document. Is it possible to share it again? Also, any recommendations on the stubby self centering bits? have tried a couple sets from Amazon but the tips tended to break with light pressure. Last question - amny tips on helpin to center the holes for the set screws? I have tried it on some round aluminum thick wall tube that I use for a handl. But seem to always be slightly off center.

Thanks
Ricc
Click to expand...
Ricc,
The doc I wrote should be here, in the Tutorials and Tips sub-forum:
John K Jordan

Thread 'Turning metal on a wood lathe'

I wrote this PFD document for a demo I did on turning metals, primarily aluminum and brass, on a wood lathe with woodturning tools. Relativity easy to do!

For an example I show how I make inserts for lathe tools. The one I show is fairly small but the method is the same for any size.

JKJ
  • Like

For drilling holes for the set screws: I described the basics on page 7 in the doc. A v-block can work and I've used one several times. I like to use a vise to hold the turned insert between two thin pieces of wood and clamp the vise down to the table. A drilling any piece of metal held by hand is hazardous.

I like use clamps made for drill presses that fasten to the slots in the table. I use a vise made for drill presses. Lots of options, on Amazon and elsewhere.

It can be a trick to get the hole exactly in the center of the insert. I try to get it as close as possible but fortunately small variations are not going to hurt anything for this application.

It's nice to use a center punch on the hole location, but you have to be careful to position the punch mark at the highest part of the diameter. You can also skip the center punch and start the hole with one of the center drills shown - they are so short and stubby they don't wander unless your drill press is sloppy. I use a small one to start the hole, then drill with the right size drill bit. I'd hate to try it with a hand-held drill. Remember to check the recommended drill speed for the material.

I also see drill guides made for centering a drill over a round piece, such as this one:
But it looks way too big for the inserts I make. Maybe someone makes a smaller one. A good machinist could make one just for these inserts.

To get the two holes in a straight line once piece in the vise is positioned directly under the drill bit I'll clamp the vise to the table then clamp a straight piece of metal to the drill press table snug against the flat end of the vise to function as a fence. Drill the 1st hole. Release the clamp holding the vise and slide it to the next hole position. Clamp the vise again, and drill the 2nd hole. After drilling I remove the insert and tap by hand.

As Webb pointed out, don't forget to use lubrication when drilling and tapping, especially in steel but also in softer metals. I use a drop of cutting/tapping lube.

I buy a lot of tools, including the center drills, from Little Machine Shop. I've never broken one. Another option for starting a hole in metal is to use a "spotting" bit often used with CNC machines. I have those too but prefer the center bit. (Note that the center bits work well for starting a hole but they are not actually made for that. They are made for drilling a 60-deg hole the end of a metal piece to be held by the 60-deg deadcenter on a metal lathe. They need a bit of lubrication for that.)

JKJ
 
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