jointer thoughts

[Steven Forrest]

I need a 6 - 8" benchtop jointer to complete a project. I'm torn between something older/used/Craigslist, cast iron, 2 blades, versus something newer with inserts, spiral or helical. Alas, the newer stuff tends to have aluminum fences and/or tables, quality of manufacturing may or may not be an issue. I like the idea of the inserts, especially if they are carbide, and I don't expect to do tons of critical jointing, and a new warranty has value. But the older, cast iron stuff tends to be a good relative value. I've never had a jointer, so I don't know about ease of adjustment for coplanar tables/supports. What in your estimation or experience are the most important factors/features/models in choosing a benchtop jointer? Thanks.

 

[Brian Gustin]

If you do invest in a jointer, get the 8 inch. I got an old used craftsman benchtop 6 inch, fairly happy with it (but it regularly lacks in width capacity) , but before I got that I did my jointing with hand plane and sometimes with table saw (using a edging sled to square up one edge) Most important factor, given you don't expect to do a ton of jointing, I'd opt for best quality of fence (squareness would be the most important thing) over helical cutter heads (many jointers can be later retro-fitted with helical heads, and if you are doing mainly edge jointing just to get things squared up, you don't really need the helical heads..). I largely use jointer just to get a trued up edge, table saw and 12 inch planer do the rest.. and the jointer blades are actually relatively easy to sharpen, and depending on your care of how clean the wood is you run through it, you may never need to sharpen or replace the blades for several years.

 

[John Walls]

I have an old Delta 8", picked it up probably 20 yrs back. Cast iron so not what I would call benchtop/portable. Fence is solid, in/outfeed is easily adjusted. I'd recommend it if you have the room and run into one. My only suggestion, make sure it's an older model when they were made in Wisconsin. Quality has disappeared in that brand, IMHO, from the models of later years I've seen. I have ran alot of wood across it, only removed the blades a couple times to sharpen but I do make sure my wood is as clean as possible before using it.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I just lucked into a Delta 6” jointer (model 37-190) after wanting one for years (decades?). It was a bargain as a member of my club, sadly, is no longer able to turn and his wife was liquidating his shop. He kept this, and all his tools in wonderful shape. The jointer is not benchtop, bedways are, I believe 42” long, but is on a mobil base, so I can move it out of the way when not in use. I’m looking forward to using it to prepare segmenting stock, as well as all kinds of flat and casework - glued up cutting boards are one example. I’ve used a long hand jointer plane in the past, but this will make tight, 90° edges easier and quicker. This machine is 22 years old, and for the use I’ll give it, I’m not worried about not having helical blades. I agree with Brian, that they are not difficult to sharpen, and I’ve already honed the blades without having to remove them from the machine.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Years of flatwork and never had a powered jointer. Use hand planes for edge jointing and a planer sled for face jointing. Router table can be used for edge jointing. Just depends on the project is, your current tools, and what you need to do whether a jointer is necessary.

Since you dont plan to use one much, there is nothing wrong with a straight blade head. Hone up the edges and properly set them and they can do very well. I borrowed a bench top version once and found it worked about the same as my router table, good enough but not great. It was a Rigid or Craftsman aluminum version, fairly light. They just arent stout enough. If only doing edge jointing an old 4 or 6” cast iron model with a good fence would work well.

 

[Dave Bunge]

You might try posting or searching the archives on a flat woodworking site, like Sawmill Creek or Lumberjocks. This question gets discussed a lot, kind of like "which lathe should I buy" does here.

Like any other purchase, it's good to start by defining what you are hoping to do, budget, floorspace available, and how long you can wait to get your new machine.

I lucked into a used older Delta DJ-20 (8 inch) which is working well for me. It does have a large footprint and was a bear to move into my basement shop.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

My take and solution is an "antique" 8" jointer. Mine happens to be a Rockwell/Delta dating back to 1970. A jointer is not a finishing tool, the jointed surface should always be hand planed, thicknessed, or sanded. For that reason, I don't feel a segmented head is worth it. (On a planer, sure, but not the jointer)

Like lathes, there is no replacement for displacement. A heavy, cast iron jointer will also be an advantage. Weight and length on a jointer are important. Very rarely have I felt the need to adjust the outfeed table, once it is set, it stays put. The fence is set to 90 and again, I don't adjust it - there are better ways to get angles on edges of boards.

An 8" is big enough to handle 90% of the stock I use, and for the wider stuff, I'll bust out my #8 Stanley and give it a go.

Don't bother with a 6", as you will quickly realize that you need the 8.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

It depends on your application. If you are often using figured woods a helical head will reduce tearout. If you will be running the jointed surface through a planer or sander the initial surface is not as critical and you can minimize tearout using straight knives with a slow feed rate. Sometimes skewing the feed helps. Carbide will last far longer between knife changes. I run straight carbide knives as a compromise.

The most important aspects of a jointer are flat and parallel tables, without that they are practically useless. A wedge bed jointer that was manufactured accurately and hasn't been abused will continue to function well indefinitely. If the tables sag sometimes the ways can be adjusted or shimmed to compensate. Parallellogram jointers with 4 adjustment points on each table allow for alignment if necessary.

Jack screws under the knives are a common feature and make changes much easier. A working guard and a solid, flat, easily adjustable fence are a necessity. A dust collection hookup is nice.

Used jointers are a much better value. If you do much work with roughsawn material an 8 inch machine is far more useful. There are a lot of decent old Powermatic and Deltas out there as well as heavier and more exotic brands like Oliver and Northfield. If you go to look at one take a long accurate straight edge with you. If you can run the machine, an well adjusted jointer with sharp knives should be able to machine closely fitted mating edges in a pair of boards as long as the outfeed table, checked at several points across the width of the table. If the knives are dull or the machine misaligned you will have to use your straightedge and judgment to decide if the machine can be made to work properly.

Unfortunately new machines are often disappointing. Some work fine out of the box and some are poorly machined and can never be made to work right, Many manufacturers, including "reputable" ones have dismal tolerances for table flatness. All in all I would rather find a good value used machine and drop a helical head in it if needed, but if you are not mechanically inclined that may not be for you.

 

[Daniel Henry]

I found a 6 inch, long frame PowerMatic and I am well pleased. However, I have since learned an 8 inch would offer better/more usage. A helical cutter head is "way" better than knives. I'm thinking that Grizzle has an 8 inch with a lot of cast iron. While it goes without saying, the heavier is most often better. I highly recommend some type of mobility base.

 

[robo hippy]

Some jointers and planers can be retrofitted with the helical heads. If I get around to it, that is the way I would go, no hesitation. I consider them better than the spiraled blades. Not sure if I want to replace my old ones with new ones or not. I have seen some combination machines that have a 12 inch jointer/planer/thicknesser set up. Looks pretty nice.

robo hippy

 

[Steven Forrest]

Thanks, everyone.

 

[john lucas]

Go with the inserts. I've had blade jointers most of my life. Picked up a used steel city 6" with carbide inserts. They arent in a spiral but spaced out in an offset that resembles a spiral. What a game changer. It take 1/2 'or even less the amount of feed pressure to push the board through. The noise is reduced tremendously. I have not needed to rotate the blades yet because the still seem sharp and leave a clean cut. I've always balked at buying the spiral head for my planer because of cost. It cost as much as the planer. However this head on my jointer is such a game changer I'm stashing money and will get one eventually.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I originally had a 6" Delta with the cast iron base, which of course means it was made probably in the 1950's or earlier and then about 20 years ago I traded + $600.00 for this 8" PowerMatic. (the guy I traded with wanted to have something he could take down into his basement) This is one of the last ones made in the USA and it is the long bed style.. About 8 years ago I bought the Byrd Shelix insert head for another $600.00. The blue marks on the inserts were just to keep track of which ones I had rotated (about a month ago) to a new edge. Like others have said the spiral insert head gives an excellent finish even on squirrely grain that does not include planner marks. The one drawback when using the full width on hard woods is the 2HP motor that mine is equipped with can get overloaded.

 

[Hugh]

Steve,
If you are really going to purchase a jointer......I would keep an eye on Craigslist and that sort of thing. If you are not in a hurry.
Most of the jointers that people put up for sale like that are usually in pretty good shape. Most do not use the tool that much to wreck it.
I picked up a 6" Jet, with the carbide inserts, rolling stand, 1 1/2hp 220V......for less than $300 a few years ago. I do not use it very much, but enjoy it when I do. Would an 8" jointer be nicer? Most likely if it had the carbide cutters. Will the 6" size do almost all I want to run through.....yup. Takes up less space in the shop too.
Just me thinking here is all.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Ditto to emphases on a good, square fence. Essential! Also, flat level tables - - often the outfeed table "falls off" at the end and cannot be made co-planar with the outfeed. Helical heads are a joy, although not really necessary for occasional work, but much less aggravating than the knives. I had a Jet 6" for a few years and it seemed quality machine for.that size, arguably better than the 8" Delta in our studio. We also have a 12" Laguna combo (Jointer/planer) that stays in jointer mode. Odd safety guard, but does a great job. Both have helical heads. Don't take me for a Laguna fan though.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Ditto to emphases on a good, square fence. Essential! Also, flat level tables

The fence can always be squared up but if it is warped or twisted you are out of luck.
The fence on my Powermatic is dead true but the angle adjusting mechanism is very poor so every so often I have to check it with a machinist square and reset it.