• September 2025 Turning Challenge: Cindy Drozda Finial Box! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Potts, People's Choice in the August 2025 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Jim Mclain for "Carved Chaco Passages" being selected as Turning of the Week for September 15, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Just checking in

Joined
Mar 20, 2018
Messages
39
Likes
28
Location
Gallatin Mo
I am looking at the Wolverine directions. Getting an idea of what is required for assembly. I am going to get some 2x4's and build a sturdy bench.. I will post pics when I get it closer to done.. Again thank you all for your generosity. I will never forget!
 
I just added a cantilevered shelf to my tool cart. There are very little force to anything when grinding. You just rest the tool on the wheel and let the grit do the job. Sturdy is about the last consideration. Height is much more important.
Richard, would you be able to post a photo?
 
I am looking at the Wolverine directions. Getting an idea of what is required for assembly. I am going to get some 2x4's and build a sturdy bench.. I will post pics when I get it closer to done.. Again thank you all for your generosity. I will never forget!

I mentioned this before: I always mount the grinder and two Wolverine bases on a square of 3/4" plywood. This keeps everything aligned and lets me move the setup around on the bench, to a new bench, to the car to take to a demo/class, or to give an entire sharpening setup to a student/friend setting up a new shop. If you fasten everything to a bench and want to move it, have to redo everything.

You might be able to see the fronts of the two plywood bases under two bench grinders, three wolverine bases in use, all simply sitting on a stainless steel utility table. Could be clamped but no need.
Sharpening_plywood.jpg

What height would be best? I know most would say elbow height?

I like to have the grinder axis at about the same comfortable height as the lathe axis. Some of the same motions with hands and arms can be used for both.

JKJ
 
Another advantage to mounting a grinder on a plywood base is portability. I've taken my grinder on numerous road trips, mostly to classes. It has it's own designated rolling toolbox for the journey. I put rubber feet under the plywood base. It makes it easier to pickup.
 
Last edited:
Richard, would you be able to post a photo?
The top of the shelf is 42.5” off the floor. I don’t like bending over when I am matching the bevel to the wheel. It has casters, but I don’t even lock them. Sharpening is a gentle operation that requires a light touch. What you can’t see is that I bought those pretty casters from Woodcraft that has the red poly tire on the caster. They have not aged well and are completely falling to pieces.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4287.jpg
    IMG_4287.jpg
    89.6 KB · Views: 18
I mentioned this before: I always mount the grinder and two Wolverine bases on a square of 3/4" plywood. This keeps everything aligned and lets me move the setup around on the bench, to a new bench, to the car to take to a demo/class, or to give an entire sharpening setup to a student/friend setting up a new shop. If you fasten everything to a bench and want to move it, have to redo everything.

You might be able to see the fronts of the two plywood bases under two bench grinders, three wolverine bases in use, all simply sitting on a stainless steel utility table. Could be clamped but no need.
View attachment 79638



I like to have the grinder axis at about the same comfortable height as the lathe axis. Some of the same motions with hands and arms can be used for both.

JKJ

Same for me.
 
Mike if you are getting a new grinder you want a slow speed grinder 1725 rpm. Also if you ever get a CBN wheel get one that is 1 1/2" wide. The tool to be sharpened must always be above center of the sharpening wheel.
 
Well, I am a fan of the slow speed grinders, but I do have a small high speed grinder which is used to degunk my tools when I am turning wet wood, which is most of the time. If I am needing to reshape a tool, then I go to the belt sander with 36 grit to get it close. Many like the small 1/2 hp Rikon grinder. It was just too wimpy for me, so I got the 1 hp model. Oh, first thing I do with them is remove the light and tool rests that come with them. Worthless! CBN wheels are pretty much standard now days, they are so much better than standard wheels.

robo hippy
 
Well, I am a fan of the slow speed grinders, but I do have a small high speed grinder which is used to degunk my tools when I am turning wet wood, which is most of the time. If I am needing to reshape a tool, then I go to the belt sander with 36 grit to get it close. Many like the small 1/2 hp Rikon grinder. It was just too wimpy for me, so I got the 1 hp model. Oh, first thing I do with them is remove the light and tool rests that come with them. Worthless! CBN wheels are pretty much standard now days, they are so much better than standard wheels.

robo hippy

Agree, the lights are worthless. I have a long gooseneck task light that I can get very close with, and I also tossed the tool rests in favor of varigrind stuff and a robo rest.
 
Back
Top