Anyone know where a L shaped chuck key for a Stronghold chuck can be purchased?
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L Shaped Chuck Key
- Thread starter Steve Chaplin
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Better get it from ONEWAY if you need a new key. They may know of L shaped keys
CAUTION
STRONG HOLD KEY is oneway’s one failure in precision. We have 3 strong hold chucks and the three keys are not interchangeable. One key won’t even pass through the hole in another chuck.
All keys have slightly different teeth. So it is likely the scrolls are threaded slightly differently as well.
I’m not aware of L shaped keys but would likely have the same issue
I have a talon chuck and a stronghold chuck bought at least ten years apart, both keys fit each other.
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All my chucks were bought before 2000.
I have a talon too. I’ve never tried the key in the strong hold. Need to try that.
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I have two Stronghold chucks. One is about ten years older than the other. The ring gears and pinions (key) are the same. I also have five or six Talon chucks. The pinion keys can be used in any of them.
It appears that the compatibility problem with the ring and pinion gear teeth was fixed before I started turning twenty years ago (2004).
My first Oneway Stronghold chuck was purchased when I got my Woodfast lathe in 1992. The chuck key for this one doesn't fit the three subsequent Stronghold chucks I purchased later on.....all after 2000, I believe. The later three all have the same chuck key.
-o-
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
Why do you want an L-shaped chuck key ... more leverage? If so, why don't you just slide the rod to either end? You can epoxy or tack weld in place if you think that is necessary.
So I can mount bowls with a mortise on the inside. Unless the bowl is shallow a L shaped key is needed to tighten the chuck.
I currently do this with my square key chucks using a ratchet wrench.
I do this fairly often and find that, depending on the depth of the in side recess, the key doesn’t have access. Please don’t tell anyone, but I keep a large, flat bladed screwdriver handy and use it as a lever to turn the pinion gear.. It doesn’t take a lot force to secure even a large bowl securely, and once the tenon is trued,, or outside finish cuts done, I’m generally done. I. Have thought about devising a universal joint similar to those I’ve seen on socket wrench extensions…but haven’t taken the time so far.
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Hear that, folks? It's a secret so be sure to keep it under your hat.
Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.
Of course you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck (faster than the other way)
Good luck
)
Stronghold and Talon chuck are different, the Stronghold is much longer and has a end that will not go into a Talon chuck.
Gears are different as well.
Yes they are older than 20 years as well.
Gears are different as well.
Yes they are older than 20 years as well.
That's why I chose Nova chucks. I have multiple keys, but I can get another (socket, L shape, or T handle) at any hardware or auto parts store.
Good idea Leo. Hate to cut up a chuck key but looking like that is the only way.Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.
Of course you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck (faster than the other way)
Good luck
Or just start buying more Vicmarc chucks and jaws so I can use my ratchet wrench.
Most buy the Nova chucks because they are CHEAPER
, and that is fine, I bought the Oneway chucks for the much higher quality, and I still would do that, I know what I got and would certainly not trade them for Nova chucks
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
I guess I just don't understand why you would need to do that. I've never done that. I'm sure there are other work methods that would accomplish the same without the extra steps. If you have a center mark you can always true up your tenon - or even a recess, if you grind (or buy) a tool to do that. I think several people have posted photos of a tool they made just for that purpose.
The L-shaped key is wonderful. Maybe if you knew a woodturner, they could get a carriage bolt and turn a handle for you
Here's some I've been using for nearly 20 years. The wood handle is far more comfortable if you've got to change stock in the chuck often. I've had to label mine with a P-touch because I've also found there's an inconsistency in fit.
My motivation for the L handle modification came when I got hired to do 275 rosettes.
Below - the first 50 and 225 to go.
Below - the first 50 and 225 to go.
Quite a project!
What are the blocks with the holes through them -- in the background on the right -- for?
Uh-oh, I think my dog was reading over my shoulder, but he doesn't talk much and he lost his internet privileges last week.
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Steve, if I had to do this, I would get a chuck ket from Oneway and cut the gear end off, then weld the bar on top of the gear end at right angle, you will not need much room to insert and remove the head.
Of course you could do it another way, leave a stub from the chuck key (not weld the head on) sticking up above the chuck body, file the stub to a hex shape, then you can use a flat ratchet wrench to tighten or loosen the chuck (faster than the other way)
Good luck
Also, whatever solution you choose, your design should let you apply some downward force on the pinion to reduce its natural tendency to rise when you apply torque. Otherwise, there could be rounding-over wear on the gear teeth as the pinion toe-end journal pin jumps out of its socket.
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My cat's Internet privileges are potentially on shaky ground. I've warned him about flopping down on the keyboard when I am approving new forum members. I can't prove it's his fault, but some forum members were banned. The cat claims it's Emiliano's fault. I'm not sure who to believe.
Bill we have a similar problem, we can be watching something on TV when the channel will change, we have extricate the remote from under the cat.
I had this same thought last night - went out to the shop to make sure I still had a few spare keys for the strongholds I’d squirreled away over the years. Later today I’ll sacrifice one to see how it works…
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She doesn't change channels but our Chihuahua , who thinks she rules the roost , does like to steal the remote and haul it away to her bed.
@Bob Vaughan I’m envious of your well-organized chucks, jaws, centers, etc… Something to aspire to.
Thanks for the kind words.
I had gotten real sick of having to search through drawers and so forth. I wanted those Morse taper gadgets up where I could see them, get them, and put them back easily.
Here's a couple of shots of the rack. Made out of shop scrap very quickly, glued, shot together with air nails and staples. It was well worth the trouble.
Most buy the Nova chucks because they are CHEAPER
I didn't choose Nova, they chose me!
When I bought my first woodturning scroll chucks over thirty years ago there was only Novas, so they chose me.
Teknatool were the first in the late eighties to develop a scroll chuck that was key operated with jaws specially designed for woodturners. Some of us were using metal machinist chucks and other early prototypes before that (I still have a bottom drawer full of those), but they were all a long way from being ideal for our purposes. The first Nova was a great innovation at the time and those that weren't turning before then don't know just how relatively easy piece holding is now! All subsequent woodturning chucks owe their heritage to Nova.
I subsequently acquired half a dozen Novas that I have used constantly and given a hard time over decades now and not one of them has given me the slightest trouble. I wouldn't part with any one of them and I'm always puzzled by those who think it's an inferior chuck.
Oh, just in case you think I haven't had the opportunity to use a 'better' chuck, I also have a half dozen Vicmarc chucks, which I also have in constant use alongside the Novas. Many say that Vicmarc make the best chuck and I have to agree that they also make a good chuck, but are they better than Nova? Well, not that I've noticed.
Both the Nova and the Vicmarc chucks have their +'ive & -'ives. One of Nova's +'ive for me is its standard hex key that fits both their Super Nova and Titan chucks, which fortunately for me also fits the smaller Vicmarc (VM100)...
What I use for reaching in to open or close my chucks deep inside a bowl is cut most of the shorter arm off a hex key and use that. Occasionally I have to resort to using a ratchet ring spanner with an even shorter piece of straight hex shaft in the keyway. I also use a spindle extension to push the piece further away from the headstock if better access is required.
Neil, 60 years ago I wanted my Dad to buy a 4 jaw self centering chuck with soft jaws, as I could then shape jaws that would hold my turning wood, it didn't happen as my Dad said we did not have a need for it, and they where quite expensive.
So I continued with the 3 jaw metal chuck and faceplates to hold my turning pieces, it did limit my choices and shapes.feet etc. but I turned lots of wood, bowls for everyone in the families, scoops and some boxes and coasters candle holders etc.
Yes I know there were a few other choices, but all for smaller stuff, Nova was having all kinds of problems as I recall with jaws not lining up and too sloppy to my feeling, then we got Oneway with a much better fit and feel, automotive quality machining and I went for that, I'm still happy with my choice and have never had a problem in the 25 years or better that I have used these chucks.
They work as well now as when they were new, never taken these chucks apart jus kept them clean and blown out ant dust if needed.
I do like the profiled jaws that have a much larger. range of good holding power, in short "I like them"
So I continued with the 3 jaw metal chuck and faceplates to hold my turning pieces, it did limit my choices and shapes.feet etc. but I turned lots of wood, bowls for everyone in the families, scoops and some boxes and coasters candle holders etc.
Yes I know there were a few other choices, but all for smaller stuff, Nova was having all kinds of problems as I recall with jaws not lining up and too sloppy to my feeling, then we got Oneway with a much better fit and feel, automotive quality machining and I went for that, I'm still happy with my choice and have never had a problem in the 25 years or better that I have used these chucks.
They work as well now as when they were new, never taken these chucks apart jus kept them clean and blown out ant dust if needed.
I do like the profiled jaws that have a much larger. range of good holding power, in short "I like them"
My process when I am coring once turned bowls is to take a core, put a mortise on the next core, take a core, etc.
Then I can mount using the mortise, finish the outside of the bowl, make a tenon, flip and finish the inside.
That makes sense now. The outer shroud makes for a problem because the key has to stick down through the hole and into the ring gear.
Option 1 would be to get an extra key, heat the shank, and bend it over. Cut off the extra length you don't want. An above suggestion of welding on a handle would work also.
There are several high end chucks that use a hex key in the surface of the chuck's outer perimeter, but that requires another shopping trip.
Option 1 would be to get an extra key, heat the shank, and bend it over. Cut off the extra length you don't want. An above suggestion of welding on a handle would work also.
There are several high end chucks that use a hex key in the surface of the chuck's outer perimeter, but that requires another shopping trip.
I was thinking of Axminster or Vicmark, that kind of design. The Nova chucks I've seen share the same geometry problem as the Oneway.
Leo
I still have some of those three and four jaw machinists chucks... they sure could knock a lot of skin off your knuckles before you could say ouch or words to that effect! I still have a couple of those that I put to other uses nowadays.
(drifting this thread a little further) What did you use those cup type attachments for? They look interesting.
The 4 jaw chuck I wanted was a precision chuck with the so called soft jaws, they are removable and shaped to special shaped, the cup chucks I had never seen, they just did not get used in the metal working world, though I know now that they can work well with spindle turning, hard on bearings with the wood pounded into them, even with spindle blocking
Those are cup chucks.
Here is a profesional turner that uses them.
That was entertaining. Thanks.
Thanks for the additional images and how-to. I may have to copy that. I definitely agree with being tired of digging through drawers, piles, etc… This might also help me with putting something down and instantly forgetting its location.
And here I thought I was the only turner that did that!