Lacquer on Bare Wood

[Ed Weingarden]

I've been using rattle can lacquer on some hollow forms, after coloring with dye. I find that the lacquer is "sucked" into the wood and doesn't start to build until 4 or 5 coats. I've considered applying dewaxed shellac prior to the lacquer, but really don't want to impart an amber hue to the dyed wood. Any other options for having less absorption of the lacquer into the bare wood?

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Not sure why that is a bad thing, I tend to like my finishes to sink in a bit. I'd look at a sanding sealer like Target EM1000 followed by finish coats of EM6000 WB. It builds quite quickly and burns in like solvent based lacquer so you don't need to worry about sanding through upper coats. No yellowing.

The Target Coatings line of products has caused me to have to completely re-evaluate my long-held prejudice against water-based finishes.

The dewaxed PLATINA (Platinum) Shellac from shellac.net is as clear a shellac as I've ever seen, it may well suit your needs for a seal coat.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Thanks for the tip on the Platina shellac.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Rattle can lacquer is mostly thinner therefore it takes many more coats to get enough build up. Try brushing lacquer (same as the rattle can except much less thinner). The brushing lacquer can be sprayed using low cost gravity feed spray guns that require very little thinning.
I use a $30.00 gun from Harbor Freight and can get good coverage with 3 coats.

 

[Dave Landers]

As it happens, last week I had some small cracks developing in a couple of small hollow forms (beetle-kill pine that I'd let sit too long). Anyway, I used some CA in the cracks and just decided to do a single coat of a CA finish to avoid (hide) the discoloration around the cracks....

The rattle-can lacquer I sprayed on those two pieces went on really great and smooth and took fewer coats. I guess I had the CA seal the wood and let the lacquer build on the surface rather than soaking in as you say.

Going to have to think about this... I do not like using CA, in general. I especially haven't enjoyed using it as a finish. But on small pieces maybe it'd be worth it as a seal-coat...

Something as an undercoat/sealer seems warranted... and/or a better quality lacquer as Don says....

 

[Larry Copas]

Vinyl sanding sealer made for lacquer. I use Lenmar Ultralaq Water White Vinyl Sanding Sealer. I spray it on flat work but wipe it on turned worked. I cut it 50% with lacquer thinner. It builds fast and improves adhesion of the lacquer top coat. Sherwin Williams sells the same stuff but the Lenmar has a higher solids content.

I've use platinum shellac for the same purpose with good results but the sanding sealer goes on better, and dries faster.

 

[Doug Freeman]

If you are using alcohol based dyes you can mix shellac with the dye and apply. It will start sealing the wood.

If you dont want to invest in a spraying system, using brushing lacquer and brushing it on for the 1st coat will get more solids into the finish. With the burn in capability of lacquer roughness left from brushing will smooth out when oversprayed with a rattle can.

I use Target wb finishes as well. They can be brushed, especially most turnings. WB finishes do not create chatoyance like solvent finishes, so test any wb finish on scrap to see if you like the look. Shellac undercoating of wb creates some chatoyance but IMO it still doesnt look as good as a solvent finish. The chatoyance difference is most at full gloss, and decreases as gloss decreases.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll head over to the local BBS and get some brush-on lacquer for a base coat.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll head over to the local BBS and get some brush-on lacquer for a base coat.

Note; on the can of brushing lacquer it will likely say it must not be sprayed, however I regularly do spray it without any problems. The likely reason for the no spray note is big brothers attempt to limit the amount of solvents entering the atmosphere, which doesn't make much sense when you consider the higher percentage of solvent in the rattle can.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Don - what dilution ratio due you use when you thin the brush-on for spraying?

 

[Doug Freeman]

Don - what dilution ratio due you use when you thin the brush-on for spraying?

I thinned it ~25% when I sprayed it. If you are going to use a spray gun setup, use regular lacquer from a finish supply store not brushing lacquer from a box store.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Don - what dilution ratio due you use when you thin the brush-on for spraying?

I can't really say, I just fill the gravity cup about half full then tip the thinner can to get maybe an eighth of the cup size. The trick is to thin enough to still get a heavy coat without orange peal, which may vary according to the spray gun you are using.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

If you are going to use a spray gun setup, use regular lacquer from a finish supply store not brushing lacquer from a box store.

Is there really any difference?

 

[Doug Freeman]

Is there really any difference?

Cheaper per oz actually buying a gallon from Sherwin Williams (only place in my town) vs a qt of mw brushing lacquer, and I suspect it’s a superior product.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Glenn, why are you whispering?

 

[Glenn Lefley]

Glenn, why are you whispering?

I don’t know! The dog was sleeping and it’s minus -24c . And when he gets up he is going to want to go for a walk.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

LOL!