Hi Is anyone using a bench mounted lathe? Would post a picture of it? I'm considering a bench mount Vicmark 240 and would like to hear from anyone using a similar setup as far as pros and cons of this setup.
Thanks Randall
Thanks Randall
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Lathe Bench
- Thread starter Randall Houghton
- Start date
I dont have one, but a couple of friends have the bench mounted 240, they love it and wont shut up about it. 
Have a word with Odie he has one, you will get an honest answer from his experience.
Have a word with Odie he has one, you will get an honest answer from his experience.
I’m still moving into my new workshop. I’ve had my Laguna 12/16 on this bench for 1 1/2 years. Only issue I have is it shakes if I spin something off balance because of the wheels. I’m thinking of putting blocks under the cabinet to raise the wheels off the floor. That way, I still have the wheels if I need to move it, but hopefully it reduces the wobble. 
My first lathe 30 years ago was bolted to a generic 2x4 frame and plywood top workbench. It was a small lathe and didn't stress the bench at all.
I like the idea of building a bench to suit your needs, esp. that you can spread the feet further out to the sides to keep them out of your way. Think machine base first, and storage cabinet-type bench second. Even if built small, use heavy wood- 4x4 and 2x8 instead of 2x4, and multiple through-bolts at each timber joint, unless you go crazy and build with mortice and tenon joints. A double thickness 3/4" plywood top. And build triangles into the frame, both side to side and front to back. You can't bend a triangle, it will be much more solid and won't rack. Or skin it with good plywood, maybe splurge and skin the frame with 1/2" or 3/4" baltic birch plywood, screwed and glued. You can even build in hidden areas for small sandbags for ballast and vibration dampening. You will not be disappointed over-building a wood bench for a lathe. Sounds like a fun project, I'll be over this weekend to help build it! (Well, I'm a thousand miles away, so...)
Some workbench books for general inspiration. Nothing built as a dedicated machine stand, but food for thought on design and construction.
lostartpress.com
lostartpress.com
lostartpress.com
I like the idea of building a bench to suit your needs, esp. that you can spread the feet further out to the sides to keep them out of your way. Think machine base first, and storage cabinet-type bench second. Even if built small, use heavy wood- 4x4 and 2x8 instead of 2x4, and multiple through-bolts at each timber joint, unless you go crazy and build with mortice and tenon joints. A double thickness 3/4" plywood top. And build triangles into the frame, both side to side and front to back. You can't bend a triangle, it will be much more solid and won't rack. Or skin it with good plywood, maybe splurge and skin the frame with 1/2" or 3/4" baltic birch plywood, screwed and glued. You can even build in hidden areas for small sandbags for ballast and vibration dampening. You will not be disappointed over-building a wood bench for a lathe. Sounds like a fun project, I'll be over this weekend to help build it! (Well, I'm a thousand miles away, so...)
Some workbench books for general inspiration. Nothing built as a dedicated machine stand, but food for thought on design and construction.
The Anarchist's Workbench (signed by the author)
by Christopher Schwarz You can download a free PDF of this book here. “The Anarchist’s Workbench” is – on the one hand – a detailed plan for a simple workbench that can be built using construction lumber and basic woodworking tools. But it’s also the story of Christopher Schwarz’s 20-year...
lostartpress.com
The Workbench Book
by Scott Landis You can download an excerpt of this book here. First published in 1987, "The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis remains the most complete book on the most important tool in the woodworker’s shop. "The Workbench Book" is a richly illustrated guided tour of the world’s best...
lostartpress.com
Ingenious Mechanicks (signed by the author)
Christopher Schwarz's “Ingenious Mechanicks” is filled with newly rediscovered ideas from early workbenches that you can put to work on a modern bench. Make a shaving station using four small pieces of wood, a face vise with a notch and some wedges, a planing stop ever with a stick of oak and...
lostartpress.com
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I have used this cart for several years. I was made by my uncle. The lathe is a Nova 16 x 24. The cart has drawers and storage areas for gouges, etc. but the most handy addition ia the 110 v. outlet or power tools, grinders, etc. The casters make moving around the shop a breeze.
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I built this cabinet for my first lathe. It worked fine! It is double 3/4 plywood all around to make it stiff and to add weight, plus sandbags on the bottom shelf to add more mass, and it is wider and deeper than the lathe needed to make it even more stable. It’s super convenient to have the drawers right there! With a 12” swing lathe the stand was never the limiting factor. Now with a free standing lathe the stand is where all the lathe accessories and tools go.
I have the table saw on a comparable base and like it so much that when it’s time to replace the saw, the new one must fit on the base!
I have the table saw on a comparable base and like it so much that when it’s time to replace the saw, the new one must fit on the base!
I didn't think the 240 could be mounted on a bench, but went and looked at mine and sure enough, it can. I wonder if you would want it on rollers/feet or not? It is pretty heavy, and if I was to put feet on it, I would raise mine up a bit as it is just a hair too short for me, but I can use it with no problems. I would want it to be VERY STURDY! For me, if I was to put it on wheels, I would want locking wheels, and oversized/overweight limit by at least double. It is a pretty heavy lathe.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Mark Hepburn
Artist & Chef
Good looking work, Ross. Inspires me to build something for my drill press.
I built this general purpose bench for in the parking area of the garage. As you can see it works well to collect junk. Anyway, it has a plastic laminate office cube table surface as a benchtop, which has a +1" this fiberboard substrate. Flat and easy to keep clean. I use 90 degree, 8-9" long right angle "stair tread" brackets from the home center. They are thick, strong steel, between 1/16-1/8" thick, secured to frame and top with 1/4" lag screws in pre-driled holes.
The frame uses Douglas fir 4x4 at the corners, accepting snug fit 2x4 in lap joints, secured with carriage bolts. The handles on the right legs are half lapped pieces of 2x4, cutting the height of the 2x4 down at the grabbing portion is optional. But that half lap distributes the handle lift load off the wood screws some and onto the lap joint.
The magic is at the non-swiveling casters, installed of the posts opposite the handles. I think they are 3" diameter, beefy ones. I secured the casters to pre-drilled holes to accept at least a 2.5" lag screw. The space between the 6:00 position of the wheel and the ground is finger thick, as low as possible but leaving enough meat in the 4x4 for the bottom lag screws.
See it, see it...? This little bench moves just like a wheelbarrow. Lift the handles to get the wheels on the ground, and drive it wherever you'd like. No movement of the bench when stationary due to casters always on the ground. And if you have a machine bolted to the top, with the bulk of the weight located at the wheel end, you'll be able to move it around just like you would a loaded wheelbarrow. Making it longer increases your mechanical leverage advantage moving it around.
Building diagonal braces into the frame, or installing a skin of plywood, would create a nice, rigid framework to mount a lathe or other power tool.
The frame uses Douglas fir 4x4 at the corners, accepting snug fit 2x4 in lap joints, secured with carriage bolts. The handles on the right legs are half lapped pieces of 2x4, cutting the height of the 2x4 down at the grabbing portion is optional. But that half lap distributes the handle lift load off the wood screws some and onto the lap joint.
The magic is at the non-swiveling casters, installed of the posts opposite the handles. I think they are 3" diameter, beefy ones. I secured the casters to pre-drilled holes to accept at least a 2.5" lag screw. The space between the 6:00 position of the wheel and the ground is finger thick, as low as possible but leaving enough meat in the 4x4 for the bottom lag screws.
See it, see it...? This little bench moves just like a wheelbarrow. Lift the handles to get the wheels on the ground, and drive it wherever you'd like. No movement of the bench when stationary due to casters always on the ground. And if you have a machine bolted to the top, with the bulk of the weight located at the wheel end, you'll be able to move it around just like you would a loaded wheelbarrow. Making it longer increases your mechanical leverage advantage moving it around.
Building diagonal braces into the frame, or installing a skin of plywood, would create a nice, rigid framework to mount a lathe or other power tool.
My first lathe was an Atlas 4 speed. I built a bench for it out of 2 sections of glue lam beams. I don't think it moved even with unbalanced blanks on it..... I did concrete work for 30 years and learned to overbuild things rather than short cut it. Saved me a number of times....