Since I started turning I set my lathe height at the recommended height based on elbow height with arms bent. Then I took a class where the lathe was about 2” higher than that. It seemed OK but I still haven’t changed mine at home. Because it involves adjusting the 4 threaded feet and I can’t get a jack inder the legs to raise while adjusting it’s a difficult process. Any guidance somewhere about lathe heights? I like the idea of the lathe being higher so I can more easily see inside bowls and hollow forms but am concerned about the position my body is in with the lathe higher.
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Lathe Height
- Thread starter Randy Heinemann
- Start date
I do like mine a little higher than standard elbow height. Just more comfortable to me. You could jack up the ends and put a 2 by 4 under each of the legs, even to the point of drilling holes in a longer 2 by 4 for the feet, oh, use the depth stop! Try it, and if you don't like it, easy to lower back down. I have been doing some boxes lately, and I would like the lathe up higher, which would make it easier to see inside the boxes when hollowing them out. Some who do more hollow forms also like their lathes higher. Seeing the insides of bowls has not been a problem for me. I do use the sliding headstock so I am standing at the end of the lathe, or the pivoting headstock on my Vicmark 240. I don't like to bend over...
robo hippy
robo hippy
Mine is a Powermatic 3520c without the risers. I wanted it at about 40”. I also bring the head toward the tail stock but it’s still a little low Without the risers, I can’t get any jack I own under the legs. I still have some adjustment left in the threaded feet. I guess I’ll just have to take the time to raise them for a test. If I had realized that I might want it higher I would just have used the risers.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
I've jacked up my 3520B using a 2x4 under the leg. One end of the 2x4 somewhere like the middle of the lathe. The tilt on the board gives you space to put a jack somewhere outboard of the legs. That works for me since my jack just barely doesn't fit. If I had a much taller jack, the 2x4 might be too long and bend/break. Just an idea.
I know other folks here lift their lathes on hydraulic lift tables under the bed. I have a box-of-sand under my lathe between the legs, so I can't do this.
I used to have my Jet 1642 on homemade risers - just laminated plywood with a hole (recess) for the lathe feet. One plywood riser for each each end of the lathe (so, 2 feet go in each).
The 3520c has a different leg structure; sold rather than open. i will need to find a way to jack up each side suited to a very small clearance between the crosspiece and floor. With the b version there is much more clearance.
Lift that lathe with 2 jacks. One one each side at one end, with probably a piece of 4x4 perpendicular to the bed (2x might do it or might break). Depending on the jack, may have to block up under them to get the height needed. Run back and forth and jack up each side a bit at a time.
Could also block up one side of the 4x4, jack under the other side, and raise it up hi enough to get spacers under the legs. It will twist the beds/legs, but should return when dropped back down.
As to CL height, center of elbow is a rule of thumb - adjust a bit up or down to your liking. It will effect tool height relative to your body. Mine is elbow height - a bit lower would be better for manual hollowing, higher would be ok for bowls, so it sits in the middle - compromise!
Could also block up one side of the 4x4, jack under the other side, and raise it up hi enough to get spacers under the legs. It will twist the beds/legs, but should return when dropped back down.
As to CL height, center of elbow is a rule of thumb - adjust a bit up or down to your liking. It will effect tool height relative to your body. Mine is elbow height - a bit lower would be better for manual hollowing, higher would be ok for bowls, so it sits in the middle - compromise!
Lathe heights, well I'm a bit different. I tried the conventional elbow thing and did so for a few years, never liked. So now all my lathes I set them at around 100mm or 4" higher. The benefits are I can see in side the hollow vessel that I tend to turn a lot of. Plus the long handle hollowers I use fir nicely under my arm at this height giving me far greater stability.
This hollower is one of my biggest ones, 20mm high tensile shaft hard chromed 450mm long on a handle 550mm x 32mm long
This hollower is one of my biggest ones, 20mm high tensile shaft hard chromed 450mm long on a handle 550mm x 32mm long
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I have my lathe at elbow height but it has a sliding headstock. For hollowing I slide the headstock down the ways and hollow from the end. I have a stool that lets me lower MY height a few inches and I can see into the vessel I am hollowing. This allows me to choose from two different heights for the type of work I happen to be doing at the time.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Well that's a tiny bit annoying (if you want to lift the end of your lathe).
I also seem to recall one time I ran a 4x4 under the bed (perpendicular to the bed), propped it on a sawhorse, and lifted the other end (just using leverage) onto another sawhorse.
I started with elbow height but quickly developed back pain from crouching over the piece. I'm now at spindle 49" above the ground (I'm 6'4") and am very comfortable. To translate, this is the 3520c on 4" cinder blocks.
I too have a PM 3520C. I too started out at the elbow height. Soon realized that "elbow" height was not working for me. I am now using the factory risers.
May I suggest you rent or borrow a hydraulic engine lift. Get fabric slings, put slings around both ends of the lathe bed and lift. While I have an overhead rail hoist in my shop, this is the process I used to install the leg risers.
May I suggest you rent or borrow a hydraulic engine lift. Get fabric slings, put slings around both ends of the lathe bed and lift. While I have an overhead rail hoist in my shop, this is the process I used to install the leg risers.
One way or the other I am going to raise my lathe an inch to start. I think that might be enough. Thanks for the suggestions. I can actually turn the threaded feet and I think I have enough thread left to raise it a. Inch. It’s just a lot of work down on the concrete floor. As I get older that is less desirable but I have time.
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When house movers jack up a house they use cribbing. This is blocking placed two horizontal and then two at right angle to the first to build up to height so jacks will lift. This is If you have that much lumber. Otherwise Dave's saw horses should also work. Be sure to use recess in feet supports as Doug said as this will keep the lathe from slipping off the blocks.
I needed to also raise my machine to get more comfortable while turning & sanding. On my Griz G0766 (and any other Asian machine with 1 piece leg castings) I turned some spacers to fit between the casting and the zambus casters. Drilled hole thru the spacer and replaced the caster stem with all thread. This gave me 51" center height which helped out greatly. I'm about 4" above elbow height. This put the bottom of the leg about 6" above the floor.
Interesting. A surprising number of people prefer a lathe height a few inches above the elbow.
I have, more than once, used an 8 foot 4 by 4 and a block of wood to lever up my lathes. Really needed that for my Vic 240. It might be a 2 person job if you are putting lifters under the feet. I had thought about a 2 by 4, and considering the weight of my lathes, probably not safe, unless I was using Ipe...
robo hippy
robo hippy
If you have rafters in your shop versus a finished ceiling a come a long or chain hoist makes it easy to lift each side to change height. I have used this method to put wheels on radial arm saws, jointer, bandsaws etc.
Pat
if raising lathe with 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 the placing wood north/south or east/west? I favor east/ west as that would be less tippy if wood extends 3 foot beyond lathe on both sides
Charlie, I am guessing you are talking about the risers being at 90 degrees to the lathe bed, or parallel to the bed. I put mine at 90 degrees to the bed, which is in like with the legs, the short way. I did extend the 4 by 4 to the wall, and nailed a cleat to the wall to anchor it in place. I could rattle the wall some times with chain sawn blanks. If the 4 by 4 went parallel to the lathe bed, I would be stumbling on them when I was turning spindles.
robo hippy
robo hippy
For many years Ihad my lath set at elbow height and was happy But when I got my new lathe and put it onto my old lathe bed the centre height was about 1 inch higher than the old centre height. I find this much better and wish that i had raised my old lathe too this height years ago. I think that alot depends on where you feel the most comfortable turning as if you are not comfortable your turning will not be as good. cheers Miike
Hi Randy, Lathe height is very specific to each individual....starting at elbow height is great. But adjusting your lathe height after using it and noticing your posture (back or neck pain from hunching or shoulder soreness etc) You should fine tune the height to your individual comfort zone.
I agree and will keep working on raising the lathe on its threaded feet to reach the maximum I can get to with that. I believe I can raise the lather by extending those feet without jacking the lathe up. If that isn't enough, then I will have to take other measures to jack the lathe up and insert the risers.
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I have a set of original riser blocks for the 3520C that I am selling. Interested?
I have the riser blocks as I just bought the lathe last year. They will make the lathe too high for me anyway. I ended up being able to adjust the threaded feet to get the lathe height to about 42” and have about another 1/2” left if needed. I think the 42” height is about eight.