Lime putty vs iron acetate for ebonizong wood

[Thomas Wilson]

I saw a Facebook video where lime putty was applied to oak then brushed off after it dried overnight and it had similar effects as iron acetate (I.e. steel wool + vinegar solution). Curious if anyone has tried this.

I was looking for an alternative method to iron acetate as I keep having issues with my iron acetate solution where it gets rusty after a week or two and adds a reddish color to the wood and doesn’t darken it as much as the fresh solution did, which I don’t like. I am making my solution in a plastic jar then transferring it to a glass jar after filtering.

For some woods, I really like the mild darkening effect iron acetate has. Here is a cottonwood bowl I recently made with fresh iron acetate and a lid from the same tree for another project, using the rusty solution:



Any suggestions or information on alternative methods would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve always just used spirit based stains, they’re much more reliable (and quicker). If you want to avoid them though you could try Ammonia?

5 Steps: How To Darken Oak Furniture With Ammonia Fuming

Joshua shows how to Darken Oak Furniture with Ammonia. Fuming Oak with ammonia is a historical process to darken wood for Fumed Oak Arts and craft furniture.

woodandshop.com

 

[john lucas]

Exactly what Bill said. I tried the various ebonizing formulas. They vary too much in color for me. I started using Trans tint dyes. I can mix them and get any color I want.

 

[Dean Center]

Thomas, I've used home brew ebonizing solution and it keeps in the covered glass jar for months in my sunlight free basement shop. Are you removing the wax from the steel wool before brewing? Are you keeping a lid snugly on the glass jar?

 

[Thomas Wilson]

Thomas, I've used home brew ebonizing solution and it keeps in the covered glass jar for months in my sunlight free basement shop. Are you removing the wax from the steel wool before brewing? Are you keeping a lid snugly on the glass jar?

I didn’t remove the wax this time but I have in the past by rinsing the steel wool with dish soap and water prior to submerging in the vinegar, but it seemed to do the same thing. I keep the lid tight and have it in my basement in a closed cupboard. Maybe it’s the type of jar and lid I’m using? I’ll have to keep experimenting.

How long will your solution be good, or does it ever go bad if stored sealed in a jar?

Thanks, Tom

 

[Stan Pressner]

Not quite ebonizing, but I have been fuming white oak w household ammonia this month and loving it.

 

[Richard Coers]

I didn’t remove the wax this time but I have in the past by rinsing the steel wool with dish soap and water prior to submerging in the vinegar, but it seemed to do the same thing. I keep the lid tight and have it in my basement in a closed cupboard. Maybe it’s the type of jar and lid I’m using? I’ll have to keep experimenting.

How long will your solution be good, or does it ever go bad if stored sealed in a jar?

Thanks, Tom

Wax on the steel wool? Never heard of that. I’ve also known about some oil added to prevent rusting, but never wax. What brand are you using that says it’s treated with wax?
This is because steel wool when manufactured is coated with an oil to prevent rust and that coating is the part that combusts. So, to collect rust from steel wool it is best to burn off the oil in order to better expose the steel for chemical oxidation.

 

[Thomas Wilson]

Wax on the steel wool? Never heard of that. I’ve also known about some oil added to prevent rusting, but never wax. What brand are you using that says it’s treated with wax?
This is because steel wool when manufactured is coated with an oil to prevent rust and that coating is the part that combusts. So, to collect rust from steel wool it is best to burn off the oil in order to better expose the steel for chemical oxidation.

I hadn’t heard of wax either. I read that you should rinse it with dish soap to get rid of the oil but I wondered if the water contributed to the rusting. What is your process of burning the oil off? I haven’t heard of that.
Thanks, Tom

 

[Lennart Delin]

I cannot understand why people keep using steel wool for ebonizing. Buy iron sulphate, moss killer. Storable for years, dissolve a little when you want to use it.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I cannot understand why people keep using steel wool for ebonizing. By iron sulphate, moss killer. Storable for years, dissolve a little when you want to use it.

Thanks, I’ve never heard of that but going to try that going forward

 

[Brian Gustin]

I cannot understand why people keep using steel wool for ebonizing. By iron sulphate, moss killer. Storable for years, dissolve a little when you want to use it.

Or instead of buying, one can just get a good file and a bar (or iron pipe) of good soft steel and with a little effort can have a good enough pile of iron filings to make a small batch of solution... I think many would be surprised how little steel there actually is in a wad of steel wool...

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I just checked on Amazon and a bottle of iron sulfate is 12 bucks which is about four dollars cheaper than a box of Briwax.

 

[rkriet]

Some years ago I saw a video of a woodturner who was also a scientist. He tested every known method of ebonizing and settled on India ink as the best solution. It is as black as any die, and it does not fade. I have used this method ever since seeing that video, and it does not disappoint. It is also quite inexpensive.

 

[Bill Alston]

Not quite ebonizing, but I have been fuming white oak w household ammonia this month and loving it.

See post #2 above for more details of the process.

 

[Stan Pressner]

I’ve always just used spirit based stains, they’re much more reliable (and quicker). If you want to avoid them though you could try Ammonia?

5 Steps: How To Darken Oak Furniture With Ammonia Fuming

Joshua shows how to Darken Oak Furniture with Ammonia. Fuming Oak with ammonia is a historical process to darken wood for Fumed Oak Arts and craft furniture.

woodandshop.com

Bill,
I follow Mike Mahoney's method using regular 2% or 3% household ammonia. It is a lot easier to handle than the 28% industrial ammonia. It does not penetrate as far, but that does not really matter on a completed turning, and it darkens just a bit slower, but still plenty fast. I use it in a plastic storage bin.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Some years ago I saw a video of a woodturner who was also a scientist. He tested every known method of ebonizing and settled on India ink as the best solution. It is as black as any die, and it does not fade. I have used this method ever since seeing that video, and it does not disappoint. It is also quite inexpensive.

I also use India ink.

 

[Lennart Delin]

Another alternative to ebonizing is rusting.
The process is also simple. Textured with a cutting disc in angle grinder. Rusting by dissolving iron sulphate in water, add some ammonia to produce a precipitation, brush on the mixture and let it dry. When drying the iron(II) is oxidised to iron(III) and also reacts with CO2 and produces rust. The chemical composition is quite the same as real rust. Typical composition of brush on mixture:
1 vol measure ferrous sulphate
8 vol measure water
1-2 vol measure concentrated ammonia

 

[Bill Alston]

Bill,
I follow Mike Mahoney's method using regular 2% or 3% household ammonia. It is a lot easier to handle than the 28% industrial ammonia. It does not penetrate as far, but that does not really matter on a completed turning, and it darkens just a bit slower, but still plenty fast. I use it in a plastic storage bin.

Thanks for that. I’ve got some household Ammonia so I might give it a try.

 

[Dean Center]

I didn’t remove the wax this time but I have in the past by rinsing the steel wool with dish soap and water prior to submerging in the vinegar, but it seemed to do the same thing. I keep the lid tight and have it in my basement in a closed cupboard. Maybe it’s the type of jar and lid I’m using? I’ll have to keep experimenting.

How long will your solution be good, or does it ever go bad if stored sealed in a jar?

Thanks, Tom

I've used old solution up to about 15 months old, but I don't recommend it. As you said, it doesn't work quite as well. I only do that when I need some and can't wait 3 weeks for it to 'cook.' Normally, I start thinking about replacing when it's 3 months old. Now when I'm in a hurry, I'll use Marine Corps leather dye, and ignore that it doesn't feel as 'natural'.

 

[Wally Crawford]

I use a plastic container and plastic lid and store my solution for years without any degradation.

 

[Dean Center]

Wax on the steel wool? Never heard of that. I’ve also known about some oil added to prevent rusting, but never wax. What brand are you using that says it’s treated with wax?
This is because steel wool when manufactured is coated with an oil to prevent rust and that coating is the part that combusts. So, to collect rust from steel wool it is best to burn off the oil in order to better expose the steel for chemical oxidation.

Oops, my bad. Senior moment. Oil and not wax. Carry on.