Log-cutting advice for future bowl (Natural edge?)

[Jamie Straw]

I've been cutting up the larger pieces of the fallen maple tree, and am hoping that the piece in the picture below might stay un-checked/un-split long enough for me to make a bowl out of it. The tree had split in half longitudinally. I would like to try a natural edge bowl (in a few weeks?), so I'm trying to be careful with cutting this particular piece up -- I may not get another shot at a maple this big for awhile. The dash-dot-dash is where I'm imagining the bowl would fit. The solid black line is where I'd cut (north of the pith), and the two lines coming from the pith are cracks. Red line shows width in that area. (The lower half of this piece I'd probably use for spindle stock). 3D imaging, most spatial stuff, is a challenge for me. Does it make sense (maybe smaller, of course)? If so, how long should I cut this piece? I was going to paint the ends and shrink wrap it, hoping it'll last awhile. All feedback welcome (just be nice)

 

[hockenbery]

Jamie
Natural edge bowls are one of the great ways to display the organic nature of the wood and greatly improve your techniques at the same time

The diagram you did on the log tells you what you get and it is a great line to use.
the cut line will yield a a nicely balance symmetrical natural edge bowl.

I like to accentuate the oval illusion of the natural edge bowl so I would cut the actual bowl blank 2-4" longer than the width.
Shallow bowls may be a bit easier for your first bowl

If it were my log I would make the cut on your horizontal line with a chainsaw and keep the whole length with ends treated with anchor seal.
When I get ready to turn a bowl I would cut an inch or two of waste wood off then cut the bowl blank.
I round the corners on the bandsaw to speed up the turning a bit

You might find parts of the Demonstration I did for the Tri-county Woodturners in 2014 useful. In the demo I turn a NE bowl from a crotch.
So I talk a lot about the crotches. I use the tools on a traditional natural edge bowl in the same way.
One caution: the shear hollowing cuts I demonstrate with the flute up is a technique I recommend you learn hands on. The flute up cut will blow your bowl up if you do it slightly wrong. In the demo I encourage the club members to get one of our club members to show them how to do it. Our club has about 80 members and 6 or 8 are really good with this cut.
I highly reccomend to pull cut for the outside of the bowls. It gives a clean cut on the interrupted cut and it usually cuts the bark cleanly. It can't take a big cut so it is a bit slow so it isn't favored by production turners.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jVoI12Kfug

Have fun,
Al

 

[hockenbery]

Jamie

For your first NE bowl I suggest starting with a blank about 6wide 8 long.
I Drill an 1 1/4 hole in top center for the spur drive hole needs to get to solid wood
I put an 8" disk centered on this hole and use it to round the corners.
This size will fit on a 10" mini.

Have fun!
Al

 

[Owen Lowe]

The diagram you did on the log tells you what you get and it is a great line to use.
the cut line will yield a a nicely balance symmetrical natural edge bowl.

I like to accentuate the oval illusion of the natural edge bowl so I would cut the actual bowl blank 2-4" longer than the width.
Shallow bowls may be a bit easier for your first bowl

If it were my log I would make the cut on your horizontal line with a chainsaw and keep the whole length with ends treated with anchor seal.
When I get ready to turn a bowl I would cut an inch or two of waste wood off then cut the bowl blank.
I round the corners on the bandsaw to speed up the turning a bit

What him ^^^ say. Plus I repeat: trim at your marked chainsaw line; keep it long until ready to turn; seal the ends as best you can; if outside, keep it in a cool-ish spot away from direct sun and wind; don’t wait too long!

 

[John Tisdale]

I've had good results storing logs until I'm ready to start roughing. Instead of the expense and messiness of anchorseal, I simply set the log on a couple of 1x4 on the concrete slab in my shop and then cover with a leaf bag. I've kept logs up to a year with good results. The bag promotes spalt which is usually a good thing (except with boxelder). But it also becomes home for a few critters - for me, new best friends.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Jamie-lots of nice moss. I try to save that. The bowl you will have will be sorta boring with whitish wood, nor any crotch figure. The bark (looks like it can be saved as the junction looks tight) will give it contrast. I had some on a bowl of bk walnut I sold at a craft show last week, and new "owners" noticed the patch of moss-there had been more but handling it caused knocking off of the moss. I love doing nat edged bowls, as the wood it artsy and I don't have to be!!!!! Can;'t say they sell like "hot cakes" tho,
One good thing about nat edged bowls are the interior concentric rings, altho maple rings won't show up very much. Good luck, Gretch

 

[Ron Rutter]

I've been cutting up the larger pieces of the fallen maple tree, and am hoping that the piece in the picture below might stay un-checked/un-split long enough for me to make a bowl out of it. The tree had split in half longitudinally. I would like to try a natural edge bowl (in a few weeks?), so I'm trying to be careful with cutting this particular piece up -- I may not get another shot at a maple this big for awhile. The dash-dot-dash is where I'm imagining the bowl would fit. The solid black line is where I'd cut (north of the pith), and the two lines coming from the pith are cracks. Red line shows width in that area. (The lower half of this piece I'd probably use for spindle stock). 3D imaging, most spatial stuff, is a challenge for me. Does it make sense (maybe smaller, of course)? If so, how long should I cut this piece? I was going to paint the ends and shrink wrap it, hoping it'll last awhile. All feedback welcome (just be nice)
View attachment 8530

Jamie. BL maple spaults well so you could try get some to do so. Cut horizontally & leave the sections as long as possible until needed. Try making one natural edge deeper than you indicated & cut all at least 3" longer than width. You might consider doing a small one first. ( try a 4-5""branch!) I think bark stays on better on fall cut logs. I always start out with a faceplate on the bark side. I can always move it or shim it as needed to suit. If the bark is not cutting clean trim it back with a sharp knife!! They are interesting, scary & fun! I have found the hardest part is getting a smooth surface on the inside top side. You have to make sure you are going in parallel to the outside surface. Ron.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

why not forget the spindle stock,,,,make two natural edge bowls.....rotate log 45 degrees left and then right.....your edges may not be even but you are doing natural edge

 

[hockenbery]

What to cut from the log. Charlie mentions some other options.
I was drawn to right side blank that appears to have a flat.
The flat makes a great blank for a cut rim bowl with the rim on the bark side.
If my goal was a cut rim bowl with the concentric rings of heard wood in the bottom I would evaluate that right side.
It is also an easy natural edge for a first NE bowl.

The left side has a dip. A deep groove can be dramatic this dip looks a bit shallow but could be better than I think depending on how it looks down the log.
My philosophy is to get the best blank from a block of wood rather than two almost good blanks.
Two great blanks I usually choose over a best that isn't that much better.
Best blank varies.

For the first few natural edge bowls modest size and symmetric end grain profile should be foremost in blank selection.
The natural edge will alway introduce some out of balance vibration. The symmetric blank will have much less than an asymmetrical blank.
Interupted cuts take practice to master. With a symmetric blank the interrupted cut hits twice in even amounts you just have to hold the tool on the bevel when it is cutting air and not push on the air so it cuts on the bevel when the wood comes around. With an asymmetric blank the interrupted cut hits a mix of 1, 2, and 3 times.
Fun for the experience natural edge turner a nightmare for the first one.

Mastery of the interrupted cut is a ticket to advanced turner status...
Once mastered square edge pieces, winged bowls from crotches, multiple center turnings all become easy and fun.

Have fun!

 

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks, sorry I've been gone!

Thanks to all who replied here, it's been great information. Time in the shop has been short and scattered, but I've learned a lot (and re-learned a lot). Will reply individually tomorrow, have a little news about the maple especially. Zzzzz-time now.