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Long Ranger lll remote transmitter died.

First check the batteries. Doubt that they can be repaired, but they can be replaced. I replaced one last summer, but have no record of the cost.
 
My unit quit working a couple of years ago. Finally figured out that somehow the frequency code got changed. Probably from a power outage or somebody pushing the wrong button. Re-programmed it and all was well.

I would think if anything were to fail in the reciever it would be the line voltage contacts. Some dust collectors can pull more amps than the contact rating.
 
Mine never worked very well. After several years of repeatedly pressing the button while standing on one foot and turning widdershams to make it work I gave up and hard wired five switches around the shop with a contactor to activate the DC. Now it turns on first time, every time and I'm a much happier camper. And because the switches are screwed to the walls in convenient locations I can actually find them when I need them. A win-win situation!
 
Mine just failed recently. Replacement for a 220V system was about $90. To me, not worth the effort to troubleshoot & repair. However, one should first check that it's not something simple like the battery or frequency. If you are unsure if it's the remote or the controller, buy a new one, or borrow a remote one from a fellow woodworker, and test with your old components. If you determine it's just the remote, return the new one and just buy the remote. If it's the controller, well now you have two remotes you can place strategically about the shop. I keep one on my apron but don't always wear my apron. So a second remote is kept at the table saw in the center of my shop.
 
...... I gave up and hard wired five switches around the shop with a contactor to activate the DC. Now it turns on first time, every time and I'm a much happier camper. And because the switches are screwed to the walls in convenient locations I can actually find them when I need them. A win-win situation!
pretty much exactly what I'll be doing this winter, except I have a set of snap switches that will attach to blast gates in the DC system, plus a couple located in a couple handy spots, and a master wired by the exit door (so if I it happens to be running when I go to leave, I don't have to walk all the way through the shop to shut it down) , they'll all have LED's next to them also (I'm deaf, so only way I can tell if something is running is to look at it or feel the machine, otherwise) this would all be wired through a fairly simple (to me) relay switch controlled by a 8-12-24v doorbell transformer via the switches (and the 12v powers the LED's, while 24V works the relay, which then controls a 20amp outlet where the DC is plugged into... dedicated circuit) I guess I'll have to document my setup, seems like...
 
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