I am going tomorrow to look at a used 2 HP, Jet 1642 variable speed lathe. Any advise on anything in particular to look at? I own a Jet 1221 already, so I do know my way around a lathe, but this model is a bit older. From the pics it shows a manufacture date of 2006/10. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
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Looking at a used 2 HP Jet 1642, any thing to look at?
- Thread starter Greg LaGrand
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I'd just make sure it runs, and quietly enough (no bearing noises or ticking or belt squeals, stuff like that) all the controls work correctly and doesn't look abused (could check headstock to tailstock alignment but unless lathe is levelled first there's not much point) Electronics and electrical, pretty much are a case of it works, or it doesn't, so tough to tell whether it might be nearing end of life or not....
A cracked bed is the only completely unfixable issue with most conventional lathes. After that, it's how handy are you and how much time and effort do you want to put in. Lathes are relatively simple machines and can continue to provide satisfactory service for a long time. Jet did come up with a newer iteration of the 16" lathe 2-3 years ago, so this will be the prior model. It's not hugely different from the current one, but exact replacement parts may be harder to come by now. That being said, many of those parts are standard items and available from sellers other than Jet.
Thanks Brian and Dean, appreciate the inputs and advice.
Our club had a 220 volt model of it for a number of years and I did turn on it a number of times. They are good solid lathes. The club in Salem used to have one that ran on 110 and I prefer the 220 volt model by a big margin. You seldom need the full height of a 20 inch lathe, or bigger lathes.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Those are wonderful lathes, if you have the 220v electrical power for it. I have two of the 110v 1642s (well, just gave one away) and they both were excellent - easily turned long spindles and nearly 16" bowls inboard. Sliding head is nice, electronic variable speed with two belt position speed ranges to trade off between speed and torque.
I did eventually get a PM3520b but the 1642, even the 110v version, would do nearly anything I wanted.
One thing on theses lathes - when changing speeds ranges or setting the belt tension, don't press down on the lever. Jet says to just loosen the lever and the weight of the motor will provide the proper tension. Some with heavy hands have prematurely worn out spindle bearings.
I'd see that the quill on the tailstock operated smoothly, the banjo worked well, the bed was not abused, the motor and speed control and reverse switched all worked. These lathes all have 3-phase motors with electronic control from the VFD to provide the variable speed, accel/decel, reverse, etc from the single phase power. I'd check the threads on the headstock spindle of that or any used lathe - some people abuse them. And as mentioned, don't worry about the headstock/tailstock alignment - that is easily adjusted once the lathe is in place in your shop. Both headstock and tailstock should slide easily. I'd be wary if it was covered with rust or pitting from rust that was removed. I don't worry about the paint - I think the Rustoleum Biscult color epoxy spray paint is a reasonable match for the color.
The lathe should come a faceplate, a cast iron tool rest, a knockout bar, drive center, live center (oneway clone), a threaded pin for indexing (mostly not useful), four adjustable feet. They originally came with a basket and a guard cage but everyone removes those and usually throws them away. There are brackets on the legs to hold 2x lumber if you want to make a shelf for stuff or weight - I put big plastic tubs below to catch most of the chips.
If they don't have the manual it's available online.
I used the 110v versions for a lot of teaching:
JKJ
I did eventually get a PM3520b but the 1642, even the 110v version, would do nearly anything I wanted.
One thing on theses lathes - when changing speeds ranges or setting the belt tension, don't press down on the lever. Jet says to just loosen the lever and the weight of the motor will provide the proper tension. Some with heavy hands have prematurely worn out spindle bearings.
I'd see that the quill on the tailstock operated smoothly, the banjo worked well, the bed was not abused, the motor and speed control and reverse switched all worked. These lathes all have 3-phase motors with electronic control from the VFD to provide the variable speed, accel/decel, reverse, etc from the single phase power. I'd check the threads on the headstock spindle of that or any used lathe - some people abuse them. And as mentioned, don't worry about the headstock/tailstock alignment - that is easily adjusted once the lathe is in place in your shop. Both headstock and tailstock should slide easily. I'd be wary if it was covered with rust or pitting from rust that was removed. I don't worry about the paint - I think the Rustoleum Biscult color epoxy spray paint is a reasonable match for the color.
The lathe should come a faceplate, a cast iron tool rest, a knockout bar, drive center, live center (oneway clone), a threaded pin for indexing (mostly not useful), four adjustable feet. They originally came with a basket and a guard cage but everyone removes those and usually throws them away. There are brackets on the legs to hold 2x lumber if you want to make a shelf for stuff or weight - I put big plastic tubs below to catch most of the chips.
If they don't have the manual it's available online.
I used the 110v versions for a lot of teaching:
JKJ
John, the comment about not pushing on the lever made me think of the old Del Stubbs video where his "variable" speed lathe was hooked up to a foot pedal where he would make it "slip" a bit for lower speeds. That was in the "old days"!
robo hippy
robo hippy
Sounds a bit like the old industrial photos I've seen with a building full of machines driven by belts from constantly spinning shafts high on the ceiling! Each operator engaged/disengaged the machine and slipped or moved the belt on the pulley to change speed if needed. What would OSHA think today?
JKJ
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
Haha! I had a wide floor pedal like that on my old 'no name' lathe back in the early '80s for the same reason. Approx. a 1'x3' piece of plywood attached to a cable and pulley to lift the motor to release the belt tension ... instant (sort of) variable speed!!! Maybe I got the idea from Del Stubbs at an early symposium? I also used it to stop the lathe with the hand wheel to check my work without having to turn off the motor - worked great. However, there was a slight downside ... after many years the friction of the belt rubbing on the pulleys (aluminum?) wore them down until the edges were like razor blades and little pieces started breaking off. That's when I got a real VS lathe in 1996.
I would make sure it’s not the reeves drive unless you are fine with it.
I’ve never heard of a Jet 1642 with a Reeves drive. Was that a thing?
Not sure if it was 1642 but I have seen many used large jet lathes for sale that had reeves drive. Not sure about the age either.
Jet made a 14 inch lathe for years, and maybe still does. It had a Reeves drive. I did turn on one once. That was enough.
robo hippy
robo hippy