I've been using both shellac and/or lacquer as a polish for my boxes, but I'm looking to find something easier to apply. Can anyone tell me the difference between General finishes woodturners finish and Mylands friction polish?
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Looking for a friction polish for box finish; Myland's vs General Finishes
- Thread starter Nate Hawkes
- Start date
I use Mylands on the inside of my boxes and it's easy to apply and quick to get done. It takes a little practice to get the mojo going on speed of turning, pressure with the polishing cloth, and how fast to move the cloth over the surface.
However, my understanding is that friction polish is a soft finish. If you make boxes with any kind of snuggish lid, such that the recipient will need 2 hands to take off the lid, a soft finish may not be the best choice. Which is why I use it only inside, where generally, there's not much wear on the finish.
However, my understanding is that friction polish is a soft finish. If you make boxes with any kind of snuggish lid, such that the recipient will need 2 hands to take off the lid, a soft finish may not be the best choice. Which is why I use it only inside, where generally, there's not much wear on the finish.
I realized that you did not ask about finishes other than General and Mylands. However, I thought I would share my experience with a product from Doctor’s Woodshop. It’s a combination of walnut oil, shellac, and carubba wax. I have had excellent results with this product and have used it for years on boxes and other small turnings. It’s very easy to apply and dries quickly. I usually apply a coat of shellac sanding sealer before applying this product. I have a recommend this product. Here’s a link if you are interested.
Doctors Woodshop
Doctors Woodshop
I have not liked friction polishes on my boxes. Mostly because it does not hold up to being handled a lot. I do like Rubio Monocote.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I like, and use many of the General Finishes products. Their woodturners finish is really not worth it, it's crap.
Does Rubio dry quickly? I'm looking for something that dries almost instantly to turn boxes somewhat quickly. I just don't want it to sit around waiting to dry while I could be turning another box.
Mylands works fine and quick. I went through a container on boxes and small bowls. I now use Doctors Woodshop friction polish but it seems to take several coats to build up a good finish. I start with a coat of sanding sealer as another poster mentioned.
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When I started turning I used Mylands a lot as it was fast and looked good. But soon folks would come back and basically complain about the look after use, it does not hold up over the long run. For pens and small boxes I now use Gluboost CA glue. Easy to do and I've had no complaints.
Rubio takes about a week to cure totally. It is expensive, but a little bit goes a very long way. It is dry to the touch the next day, similar to just about any applied oil finish. I did try spray lacquers, and they do not hold up well to a lot of handling.
robo hippy
There isn't a rule that says you have to keep the box on the lathe while you wait for the finish to dry. If you're using friction polish or shellac, you'll want to do it on the lathe, but otherwise, take it off, set aside, make more boxes, then go finish them all at once. If you feel the need for speed, learn to spray lacquer. Do it in your driveway when it's calm outside. You could do 2 coats on a half dozen boxes in 20 minutes.
For small to medium size items (up to ~ 6”x6”), I use Parfix 3408, a slow setting no smoke ca glue. Mark Silay has some utube vids.
Seems no one has answered your basic question. I have used Mylands for years and from high school days used a basic French polish of shellac and boiled linseed oil alternating until happy with the finish. Until I joined a woodturning guild and got educated that was all I used on spindle and small stuff. From their web site, Mylands is a high concentration of shellac in methyl alcohol. The General Finishes is a hybrid water oil based urethane mix, which would likely be an emulsion tuned for turning, perhaps just a new name on another established product? The hybrid urethanes emerged some time ago. I have not used it but would expect it to be a harder finish based on the urethane. There are a myriad of shellac-wax-oil formulas floating around on forums. As with basic French polish, they all make a shine when new but do age with handling. I usually add a coat of microcrystalline wax after the Mylands or whatever finish I used is cured.
I mix my own friction polish and have had as good or better results than store bought friction polish. I mix shellac flakes with 200 proof 100% food grade alcohol, once the flakes are dissolved strain through a paint strainer, to mix the friction polish I use one part polymerized linseed oil ( tried and true is the brand) , one part shellac and one part 200 proof. Besides building fast and creating a good shine it is direct food contact safe
I do the same, and often provide a tiny container of Renaissance wax and show them how to apply it. The tiny clear plastic screw-lid containers marketed for makeup are perfect for this.
I can’t speak to Nate’s question about the General Finishes product vs Mylands, having no experience with the GF. I do use Mylands quite a bit and find it quicker and easier to use with spindles (applied at high speed on the lathe) than the outside surfaces of some boxes - for that I usually apply it off the lathe. Otherwise, depending on the object, wood, and intended use I’ll use something else such as multiple coats of “danish” oil,
For things that will get a lot of handling (such as handles!), especially outdoors, TruOil gunstock finish provides a tough, durable glossy surface, easy to apply, cut back afterwards with 0000 steel wood if too glossy.
I also like the Parfix 3408. And for some things made from dense, fine-grained woods I may simply buff (e.g, Beal) unless I want a finish to slow down color change. It’s hard to buff the inside of a box, though…
JKJ
I've used Myland's Melamine finish on a lot of my pens but am now using CA glue. I changed after seeing the heavily used pen I gave my grand-daughter, an obstetrics nurse.
I put on 6 coats of medium CA and then sand up to 12,000 grit.
I still use Mylands on such things as tea/coffee scoops.
Hey, I think it's great for that! Our scoops don't get severe handling or get wet, aren't exposed to alcohol!
I used Mylands on these carved coffee scoops. (I carved the bowl until it held the same volume as the scoop that came with the coffee maker as measured with the Silly Putty method.) Gave the one from Cocobolo away, been using the other from Pink Flamewood (rinorea paniculata) for almost 20 years. The colors have faded a bit but the finish is still good.
JKJ
Those are very elegant! Mine are more prosaic and of 2-piece design so that I don't waste 2" wood on a <1/2" handle.