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Low VOC/No VOC durable wipe-on film finish

Joined
Dec 31, 2023
Messages
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Location
Atkinson, NH
What do you like for a durable low VOC/no VOC film finish that can be wiped on, dries fast and sands easily? A water-based lacquer like EM6000 seems like a possibility.
 
I've used Minwax Polycrylic with good results but I prefer oil-based and shellac.

Correction: I've used it as a brush-on finish but not as a wipe on finish. Perhaps it will work but I can;t say for sure.
 
What do you like for a durable low VOC/no VOC film finish that can be wiped on, dries fast and sands easily? A water-based lacquer like EM6000 seems like a possibility.
You could probably get away with applying any of the emtech finishes with a rag but you would need to be quick with either of the lacquers. They have a short open time before they start to dry. I have used there em8000 conversion varnish wiping it on smaller turnings. I started recently diluting the em7000 in a dropper bottle with some water so i can spray it with an airbrush.
 
I've used both EM6000 and EM2000. The 2000 adds a touch of color and enhances the grain more. The 6000 is closer to a non-yellowing clear. When I have a number of pieces ready for finish I spray it, but brushing or wipe on also works fine as long as you're quick. It dries fast.
 
I have been happy with Rubio Monocote, preferring it to the Osmo. I am looking into another brand that cures, instantly, with UV light and saw it on the Blacktail Studio channel where he used it to finish the floors in his house. Every one who uses rubio monocote puts on 2 coats. The Blacktail studio guy makes a "ceramic" top coat for a pretty much bullet proof finish. It comes from the auto industry and is used on cars. I posted info about it in the Off Topic forum. You can use it with closed doors and not get dizzy from the fumes or need a vapors mask.

robo hippy
 
I have used Minwax Polycrylic, mostly on spalted wood where I do not want any amber tint. I prefer multiple thin coats where I wipe on a layer, wait a minute or 2, and wipe off the excess. Trying to build up the film in too few coats results in runs and drips. I dilute it with about 10% water.
Osmo polyx and most other hardwax oils leave a subtle amber tone, not as much as oil base finishes like BLO or wipe on poly. I apply by wiping on, wait 10 minutes, wipe off excess, wait overnight, and repeat. I then wait about a week before Beall buffing. If that sheen is too glossy for you, you can rub with steel wool.
 
I was wandering in Woodcraft the other day and was surprised to see a big display of Osmo and a medium sized display of Rubio monocote. They're no longer avant garde, apparently.
 
Thanks everyone. I have experience with and like both Osmo and Rubio. I can get a thin film build with Osmo but the example I was asked to replicate looked like a lacquer and was thicker than I can build with Osmo or my own hardwax oil.
 
Thanks everyone. I have experience with and like both Osmo and Rubio. I can get a thin film build with Osmo but the example I was asked to replicate looked like a lacquer and was thicker than I can build with Osmo or my own hardwax oil.
em7000 is target coatings high build lacquer. If you put enough coats to make it thick you can go back and sand it smooth to a mirror finish after it completely cures. I have done it and its like I would sand out resin. Lightly dry sand 400 grit to smooth it out. Then wet sand through through 3000 followed by wet sanding with micro mesh pads to 12,000. It comes out looking like glass but is a little time consuming.
 
Wet sand with what liquid? Water?
Yes I just dip sandpaper and pads in a shallow dish of water frequently during sanding. It helps reduce heat and friction. When I sand my finishes I do it off the lathe. Sanding a finish is a light touch its very easy to go to far and sand it completely off.

spaltedvase1-3.JPG
 
A point the Blacktail Studio guy made was that EVERYONE who uses Rubio Monocote puts on at least 2 coats.... Me too!

robo hippy
 
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