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Marking your work

B

Bob Hall

Joined
Jan 6, 2024
Messages
124
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140
Location
Chicopee, MA
I saw the beautiful bowls that @Kent Reisdorph, and many other members, have posted and I was wondering what you are using to mark your bowls? The makers mark on Kent’s bowls really jumped out at me and I’m guessing that was done with a laser a that most are.

I’m at the hobbyist level and branding mine with a basic mark (below) but it’s a bit hit or miss with the application of the heat. I would like to move up to something better without breaking the bank so I am interested in what others are doing.

Thanks,

Bob

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Lou Jacobs said:
If you do a search on the topic, perhaps “signing your work”, (use the magnifying glass icon above) you’ll find several discussion threads about this topic covering the gamut from lasers to archival pens to pyrography and more.
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I Did that but I got all kinds of responses about Mark. I will try to refine my search and if the mods feel this is thread is redundant please feel free to send it to the recycle bin.

Thanks,

Bob
 
Bob Hall said:
I Did that but I got all kinds of responses about Mark. I will try to refine my search and if the mods feel this is thread is redundant please feel free to send it to the recycle bin.

Thanks,

Bob
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Try this one: https://www.aawforum.org/community/search/33855/?q=signing+your+work&o=relevance

First result has a pretty good thread. Mine are hand signed in india ink (Archival Ink Pen) , others use a laserpecker or similar, some have their little badge inserts custom made by someone else, some use a branding iron, and others use a freehand woodburner. Lots of options.
 
Bob Hall said:
I will try to refine my search and if the mods feel this is thread is redundant please feel free to send it to the recycle bin
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No worries about thread asking something that’s been covered before. I just thought, if you didn’t know, that there’s a way to search previously explored topics.
I for one, prefer a hand written or burned signature to something machine made for handmade work. I find it more personal, but you’ll find all kinds of differing opinions, including from some of the ,most accomplished turners who prefer brands or lasers.
 
@Bob Hall Whatever method you choose - brand, laser, burner, or pen - I would recommend that you align it with the grain. To me your example, although a minor detail - is visually bothersome. And branding, if that's the correct term, requires a flat surface for best results. Flat bottoms will eventually rock when sitting on a table (wood movement), and IMO, other methods of dealing with the foot/base look better. Just something to think about in the future. 😇
 
I have a friend who purchased one of the inexpensive laser burners and his signatures are very nice but in my opinion they are a little to nice. They are so nice the signature almost looks manufactured. It doesn't seem to fit well with the "hand crafted" work that he does.

I prefer a more "crafty" approach. I use a vibrating engraver to sign my work with my name, wood and year. I think this fits much better with my style.
 
I use a HB pencil to lightly outline letters and numbers (for the year made), and wood used. Then I go over that with a gel pen. Letting it dry for a short time gives a permanent image which can be finished with what ever you use to finish the bowl. Since I don't sell my bowls, I'm not that particular about signing them, but do it mostly so that those I give them to can identify the maker and the wood. The pencil gives me a guideline to do the final "writeover" with the gel pen. Try it on a practice piece of wood.
 
Rusty Nesmith said:
The cheapest one they have now is $700.
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Nah you have to go to "All Machines" page - cheapest one is the Laserpecker LP1 Mini at $209 ($90 off the $299 retail price right now) - That's the one I have - only works with cell phone app though, so if you don't have cell phone, you're out of luck However like Kent does, it CAN be mounted to your tailstock and engrave bowls that way , and other mountings could probably be fabricated, the only important thing is having that 200 mm focus distance for it to work with.
 
Like @David Gilbert, I also use a small vibrating engraver. This works perfect for most woods. The only problematic woods are the porous type, ex. Red Oak. In that case I’ll use a small woodburning tip like @Chris Hoehle. I find that I can control the engraver a bit better than the burning tip, and it lets me write very finely. Here is a small signature on a recent Osage Orange bowl. Note the wrong wood ID on the bowl. There's always a fix. Oof

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Once oiled/lacquered/whatever, the engraved signature darkens and stands out quite a bit more. Also, I’m still dating my pieces, but at some point I’ll likely move away from the year in lieu of some sort of code.
 
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Lou Jacobs said:
Osage orange or black locust Michael? Looks like OO, but the engraving says locust. PS- whichever it is, it looks elegant.
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Simple explanation is that I'm an idiot and engraved the wrong wood type. It is OO, not locust. Dope. Was working with a lot of locust, and this one got thrown in the mix. Goober move, back to the lathe to turn away the evidence!
 
Not a woodturning but the last thing out of the shop was this natural edge table.
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I try to burn deep and its freehand so sometimes it gets lopsided. I hope the owner of the piece a 100 years from now can appreciate it was made by human hands. I used a brand for a while but just seemed to close to machine made. Archival ink pens are great, but if the piece is used the signature can wear off or become ineligible.
 
I tried a Dremel with a v point, but it looked like I have Parkinson's... Which I will likely get as my dad and uncle both do... In the meantime I use a felt tip after the first coat and before the second coat. No bleeding and sealed in time. I just do name and year.
 

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Michael Anderson said:
Simple explanation is that I'm an idiot and engraved the wrong wood type. It is OO, not locust. Dope. Was working with a lot of locust, and this one got thrown in the mix. Goober move, back to the lathe to turn away the evidence!
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I’ve been there Michael. I’m generally using a pyrography pen. Recently wrote “cherry” on a piece of ash. Not sure where my head was. Luckily, the bottom was thick enough that I could sand it off and re-burn it.
 
I too have struggled with how to sign. Tried everything and finally just decided to give up and do a very sloppy wood burn. Really didn’t like it. Then I saw someone use the NSK Presto 2 carver. A little pricey but this issue was very important to me. So a little saving and I bought one. Also great for “ micro “ carving. Absolutely love it. I can carve my own signature with no run out. Then I stoled a code from Ron Solfest from my club. Thanks Ron
 
Michael Anderson said:
Like @David Gilbert, I also use a small vibrating engraver. This works perfect for most woods. The only problematic woods are the porous type, ex. Red Oak. In that case I’ll use a small woodburning tip like @Chris Hoehle. I find that I can control the engraver a bit better than the burning tip, and it lets me write very finely. Here is a small signature on a recent Osage Orange bowl. Note the wrong wood ID on the bowl. There's always a fix. Oof

View attachment 61534

Once oiled/lacquered/whatever, the engraved signature darkens and stands out quite a bit more. Also, I’m still dating my pieces, but at some point I’ll likely move away from the year in lieu of some sort of code.
Click to expand...

I've certainly never done that. ;)
IMG_20231108_093551.jpg
 
I think laserpecker is just continuously on "sale" through their website. I ordered a LP1 over a month ago and it is still in transit. They ship out of China so it takes a while (was also during Spring Festival so they were shut down for a couple weeks). Ordering from Amazon will be faster but it's more expensive.
 
rkriet said:
Kent, thanks for the pic. I’ve always wanted to see a piece of spalted walnut. Or is it Ambrosia Walnut?
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Ambrosia is the staining from an insect excrement that bores into maple that turns the wood around the hole and along the grain path a pistachio green and occasionally grey.
Spalting is the staining of the wood along the growth rings due to fungus infiltrate [typical of improperly storing the timber before processing].
Spalting occurs once the section of timber is dead. Some Sawyers will intentionally store non premium wood in contact with soil to encourage spalting, though this is a gamble as too much time converts the wood to punk, and then disintegrates.
 
David Gilbert said:
I have a friend who purchased one of the inexpensive laser burners and his signatures are very nice but in my opinion they are a little to nice. They are so nice the signature almost looks manufactured. It doesn't seem to fit well with the "hand crafted" work that he does.

I prefer a more "crafty" approach. I use a vibrating engraver to sign my work with my name, wood and year. I think this fits much better with my style.
Click to expand...
The thing about a laser is you can get more creative than just a wiggly hand signature. Also, once you get a laser you can embellish the bowl rim as well. These sell very well at the Nature Center. The Japanese craftsman put a Kanjji on their work. That can include a date or even species in a custom graphic design. Also remember that many of us are starting to get a shake in our hands from age. Some of us will need a way to keep the signature legible. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanji
dfly3.jpg
 
Ted Pelfrey said:
I too have struggled with how to sign. Tried everything and finally just decided to give up and do a very sloppy wood burn. Really didn’t like it. Then I saw someone use the NSK Presto 2 carver. A little pricey but this issue was very important to me. So a little saving and I bought one. Also great for “ micro “ carving. Absolutely love it. I can carve my own signature with no run out. Then I stoled a code from Ron Solfest from my club. Thanks Ron
Click to expand...
An air turbine hand piece does work well, albeit pricey, as long as you don't go too deep (think piercing). I've only used it for printing so far - don't know why I haven't tried it for signing my work ... still use a pen !?!? Guess it is just easier to grab a pen.

P1030845.jpgP1030864.jpg
 
Michael Brown said:
Ambrosia is the staining from an insect excrement that bores into maple that turns the wood around the hole and along the grain path a pistachio green and occasionally grey.
Spalting is the staining of the wood along the growth rings due to fungus infiltrate [typical of improperly storing the timber before processing].
Spalting occurs once the section of timber is dead. Some Sawyers will intentionally store non premium wood in contact with soil to encourage spalting, though this is a gamble as too much time converts the wood to punk, and then disintegrates.
Click to expand...
Michael, I believe Ron was responding tongue in cheek.
 
Lou and Michael,
Yes, that was my lame attempt at humor. I should have included a smiley face.
 
Michael Anderson said:
Like @David Gilbert, I also use a small vibrating engraver. This works perfect for most woods. The only problematic woods are the porous type, ex. Red Oak. In that case I’ll use a small woodburning tip like @Chris Hoehle. I find that I can control the engraver a bit better than the burning tip, and it lets me write very finely. Here is a small signature on a recent Osage Orange bowl. Note the wrong wood ID on the bowl. There's always a fix. Oof

View attachment 61534

Once oiled/lacquered/whatever, the engraved signature darkens and stands out quite a bit more. Also, I’m still dating my pieces, but at some point I’ll likely move away from the year in lieu of some sort of code.
Click to expand...
It happens to all of us! Like signing your first piece of the new year as last year's date!
 
I'm on the brand train. For small items I have just the bee in another brand. I have had to sand it out a few times but its gotten better with time. The keys are that you need to have a very flat space for the image. I also use a propane torch to heat them up. Before I take the hot brand to the piece I test it on some scrap. Its usually that I'm not hot enough but occasionally I over heat it and let it cool down a bit. I try to do my test in the same type of wood as my finished piece since different species burn differently. Taking these steps has really helped me to be more consistent with great results.
result_img_2023_11_18_09_35_20 (1).jpg
 
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