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Messy application of sticky liquid wood hardeners solved with bottle applicators.

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In visiting with Tim Tucker the other day the topic of punky wood and stabilizers came up. I mentioned I used with some success Minwax Wood Hardener to which he commented about how messy it was to use so I shared with him my solution to that issue. These applicator bottles all but eliminate the sticky mess when applying that liquid and I feel would serve with other liquid applications as well. There is a screw on cap for the nozzle that screws on to each 16.9 0unce bottle. Tim suggested I share this tip on AAW so here it is for those of you who may find it useful.
 

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Just curious ... are these bottles good for long-term storage? I had a can of Minwax Wood Hardener that sat on the shelf for a year, and could not open the can ... the twist-off cap was frozen solid. Had to use a pair of channel locks to twist the cap off. The can is still about 2/3's full and has a duct tape cover that I'm sure won't last long.
 
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Just curious ... are these bottles good for long-term storage? I had a can of Minwax Wood Hardener that sat on the shelf for a year, and could not open the can ... the twist-off cap was frozen solid. Had to use a pair of channel locks to twist the cap off. The can is still about 2/3's full and has a duct tape cover that I'm sure won't last long.
IMO a better solution for long-term storage are “StopLoss” bags. I have stored finishes and hardeners and they have remained viable over 12 months.
 
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Just curious ... are these bottles good for long-term storage? I had a can of Minwax Wood Hardener that sat on the shelf for a year, and could not open the can ... the twist-off cap was frozen solid. Had to use a pair of channel locks to twist the cap off. The can is still about 2/3's full and has a duct tape cover that I'm sure won't last long.
I've been using them for 3 months with temps in the shop over 110 in this Texas record heat summer with no issues at all the caps release with relative ease and the plastic is made for chemical storage such as what hair burners use. It is PET plastic. Polyethylene plastic .
 
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IMO a better solution for long-term storage are “StopLoss” bags. I have stored finishes and hardeners and they have remained viable over 12 months.
IMO a better solution for long-term storage are “StopLoss” bags. I have stored finishes and hardeners and they have remained viable over 12 months.
The concern here is not storage but the ease of applying the product to the wood you are treating and putting the hardener precisely where you want it with no mess. The small tip applicator makes getting the product where one wants it on the wood a fairly simple process. I have no practical input as to long term storage because I just began using them myself but my guess is this plastic is used industrywide for containment of a great variety of liquids even acids so I would say it would work very well.
from Google ...
Polyethylene Bottles
Polyethylene is another type of plastic. Like polymethylpentene and glass, it is compatible with both acids and bases of different strengths. This material is very strong and difficult to break, making it ideal for chemical storage, as breakages cause spills.
 
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IMO a better solution for long-term storage are “StopLoss” bags. I have stored finishes and hardeners and they have remained viable over 12 months.
The Stop-Loss bags have not been easily available - especially of late. More so - the attempt to be "neat" with something as low viscosity and as messy as Minwax Wood Hardener gives me night terrors.....:p

I am trying the bottles that Glenn suggested.
 
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IMO a better solution for long-term storage are “StopLoss” bags. I have stored finishes and hardeners and they have remained viable over 12 months.

I dont think stop loss bags are rated for the highly volatile components in mw hardener. Suggest one check that out before using. I also agree that the bags hurt, not help, the application process. The bottles Glenn suggests seem to make sense.

@Glenn Phipps I’ve used mw hardener with success. Its a bit pricey. I have also used 2 part bar top top epoxy, Famowood, thinned 1:1 with acetone. Equal performance from what I could tell. Been a while since I priced things out, but the epoxy- acetone was cheaper. Just depends on how much one uses.
 
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I dont think stop loss bags are rated for the highly volatile components in mw hardener. Suggest one check that out before using. I also agree that the bags hurt, not help, the application process. The bottles Glenn suggests seem to make sense.

@Glenn Phipps I’ve used mw hardener with success. Its a bit pricey. I have also used 2 part bar top top epoxy, Famowood, thinned 1:1 with acetone. Equal performance from what I could tell. Been a while since I priced things out, but the epoxy- acetone was cheaper. Just depends on how much one uses.
I like simple, KISS principle, These bottles with applicator nozzle, allow for as little, a drop, to as much , a stream, directed precisely where one wants it. As for long term storage I factored that in as well and this PET plastic they are made of met the criteria I felt comfortable with.
 
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My solution is very simple. I toss punky wood into a 150 ravine behind my shop, never to be seen again. We all know John Jordan's famous line, LOL
I don't have a ravine any more, but there is a fire pit in the backyard that sure comes in handy!
 
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It all depends on where you live, what is available - and what you like. Some of the nicest pieces I have turned - or at least the most interesting ( READ: Sold for the most money...) are ones that have spalting and punky wood. No - it is not for everyone. I get it. But, if you put a little extra time and effort into a piece with spalting and punky wood....it can be quite spectacular
 

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For my BLO and DNA, I use laboratory wash bottles I bought from Amazon. Squeeze the bottle, the material comes out the spout. The intake tube is at the bottom of the bottle, so even with the nozzle uncapped little of the material is exposed to air. We all know how fast DNA evaporates - I cannot detect change in the volume of DNA in the wash bottle. I am sure there is a little loss, but not an issue. I do occasionally have an issue with BLO curing in the end of the nozzle. A small nail clears that quickly.
 

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For my BLO and DNA, I use laboratory wash bottles I bought from Amazon. Squeeze the bottle, the material comes out the spout. The intake tube is at the bottom of the bottle, so even with the nozzle uncapped little of the material is exposed to air. We all know how fast DNA evaporates - I cannot detect change in the volume of DNA in the wash bottle. I am sure there is a little loss, but not an issue. I do occasionally have an issue with BLO curing in the end of the nozzle. A small nail clears that quickly.
I bet something like a thumb tack would "cork" the nozzle opening when the bottle is not in use. Or try a ball point pen cap?
 
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When I remember to, I stick a nail in the end. When I remember to :)

Usually, I remember to stick the nail in the end when I go to use it and the end is plugged with dried BLO!

I don't think a ballpoint cap would work, there is nothing for it to grip - the nozzle is more tapered and slim than your typical Bic pen. What may work, though, is a wire nut. I have seen them used for things like this before. The question is - what size and what will it do to the relatively soft plastic of the nozzle.
 
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When I remember to, I stick a nail in the end. When I remember to :)

Usually, I remember to stick the nail in the end when I go to use it and the end is plugged with dried BLO!

I don't think a ballpoint cap would work, there is nothing for it to grip - the nozzle is more tapered and slim than your typical Bic pen. What may work, though, is a wire nut. I have seen them used for things like this before. The question is - what size and what will it do to the relatively soft plastic of the nozzle.
Here is a challenge for you .?! Turn a cap, if you really need one.
 
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