modern/new Jerry Glaser tools

[Steve Tiedman]

Is anyone, has anyone, bought Jerry Glaser turning tools in recent times? Bringing him up in the recent TiN coating thread, I was curious about the brand in recent times. Jerry passed away in 2013.

I never followed his brand, I had no interest, nor the budget for them. I don't know what Jerry's company makeup was back then, but today...

I looked up Jerry Glaser turning tools, and here is the About Us from the website-

About Us

And the same from the parent company, located at the same physical address-

About ATC – ATC, Inc.

From Glaser-
"Our products are manufactured by Advanced Theoretical Concepts, a leader in the development and engineering of precision components for the US Military, aerospace and Deep Space Exploration."

And woodturning tools. Sure, why not? Everyone, even a corporation, should have a hobby.

So, anyone dropping $200-300 apiece for Glaser tools nowadays?

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I had a set of the miniGlazer QR that I used up at Steven Kennards in Nova Scotia. Good tool set but I don’t like changing handles. I sold the set.

It was great for traveling but I don’t do demos so…

 

[Bob Sheppard]

I have no idea what the current crop of Glaser tools are like, but I have a Glaser gouge that I bought new from Jerry at the Philly symposium in (I think) 1988. I don't turn a lot of bowls so the gouge still has a lot of life in it. It does hold an edge for a long time and I'm happy to have it in my collection of tools.

 

[Richard Coers]

1 1/4 round scraper is $275! 1/2” bowl gouge is $205! But according to Hans, the chisels rank higher than having a son!

A good thing to have!​

“ Other than my marriage, working with Glaser Tools is the best thing that has ever happened to me. They are the only tools I use. Anf it is a good thing that I have enough of them to last me thre rest of my life. “

Hans Weissflog
Master Woodturner

 

[Wyatt Holm]

So I understand that the line of tools was bought by a famous woodturner a few years back. They are still in development, but several tools are currently available. I am not sure how similar they are to the original. But here you go:

5/8" 15V Elliptical Bowl™ Gouge

There have never been woodturning blades like our New Revolution Gouge™ Series. (PATENT PENDING) With an Ultra-Advanced Design made with unique new manufacturing and lamination processes, we offer a game-changing level of new gouges. Advancements in Gouge Design & Materials In 1980, Stuart Batty...

stuartbattytools.com

 

[Steve Tiedman]

So I understand that the line of tools was bought by a famous woodturner a few years back. They are still in development, but several tools are currently available. I am not sure how similar they are to the original. But here you go:

5/8" 15V Elliptical Bowl™ Gouge

There have never been woodturning blades like our New Revolution Gouge™ Series. (PATENT PENDING) With an Ultra-Advanced Design made with unique new manufacturing and lamination processes, we offer a game-changing level of new gouges. Advancements in Gouge Design & Materials In 1980, Stuart Batty...

stuartbattytools.com

Hello Wyatt, I don't think that is the case, of Stuart Batty buying the Glaser brand. Unless I missed something, somewhere. The links I included above show that to be the case. Stuart develops his own tools.

 

[Bill Blasic]

The guy that bought Jerry's business hates Doug Thompson with a passion. Doug Thompson didn't buy anybody's business. He started reading about steel as he was a woodturner. He settled on A11 (10V) steel as he was a user of the original Glasers and started working in his garage. And because of all his study and because he was part machinist he made his first gouges. He took some to an AAW Symposium on the West coast to show them around and was asked to leave. I had joined the Cleveland club and met Doug and he was letting folks try them out. I got a 5/8"V and that basically change my turning life. In due time the 30 plus wood handled gouges were gone. In the mean time the guy who bought Glaser made a huge splash at the AAW Symposium with a huge display with Glaser tools hanging from the display and Stuart Batty as a spokesman and they were as expensive then as they are now. Doug has tried his best to keep the tools priced so they are affordable to most. There you go a short history. Now I don't even want to get started about Stuart Batty Some of you may not know but after getting that first tool from Doug I was in his booth selling those tools for the next 18 years or so, I just loved talking to woodturners.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

The guy that bought Jerry's business hates Doug Thompson with a passion. Doug Thompson didn't buy anybody's business. He started reading about steel as he was a woodturner. He settled on A11 (10V) steel as he was a user of the original Glasers and started working in his garage. And because of all his study and because he was part machinist he made his first gouges. He took some to an AAW Symposium on the West coast to show them around and was asked to leave. I had joined the Cleveland club and met Doug and he was letting folks try them out. I got a 5/8"V and that basically change my turning life. In due time the 30 plus wood handled gouges were gone. In the mean time the guy who bought Glaser made a huge splash at the AAW Symposium with a huge display with Glaser tools hanging from the display and Stuart Batty as a spokesman and they were as expensive then as they are now. Doug has tried his best to keep the tools priced so they are affordable to most. There you go a short history. Now I don't even want to get started about Stuart Batty Some of you may not know but after getting that first tool from Doug I was in his booth selling those tools for the next 18 years or so, I just loved talking to woodturners.

I'm with you Bill. I don't know Mr. Thompson other than to shake his hand at a vendor booth in Pittsburgh (loooong time ago), but he was a very nice guy.

I just bought a 1/4" detail gouge for only $35 on his site (I have other tools as well). And handles you can make from scrap and a ferrule, so that's a fantastic deal and even more so considering the quality.

Almost ten years ago I asked him about a parting tool; he said the scrap rate was pretty high but he ended up making the 1/8" parting tool that I just love. I have a spare for when I wear the first one down to a nub.

As for Glaser tools, I didn't find that they were the apex of turning tools. I prefer Thompson and Crown PM in every aspect. And the thing I didn't like about my set was having to swap tools into the handle for every operation.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

No Stuart did not buy the brand, his former partner did. He has separated businesses and is making his own. His former partner is not making any.

 

[robo hippy]

I think I have an old Glaser gouge or two around the shop some where. They were the 15V and had the shot filled handles. I didn't and still do not like the weighted handles at all. Just too heavy for a full day of turning. I have a lot of Thompson tools. I don't think Doug makes the smaller tools like Jimmy at D Way does, and Jimmy started as Box Master tools, so lots of smaller ones, like 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 thick. As far as 10V and 15V, I really don't know if there is enough edge retention difference to make it worth the extra expense. For sure there is a HUGE difference between standard M2 and M42 and V10. The V flute Glaser tool was way too narrow, so it would always clog up when taking heavy roughing cuts, and I mean always.

robo hippy

 

[Steve Tiedman]

As far as the tool steel world goes, us at-home woodturners aren't even a blip on the radar of these steel manufacturers. They make these steels for industry first, such as manufacturing machinery, like die cutting/stamping. Think stamping out car fenders, or millions of other things, from sheet metal, plastic, rubber, and other materials all day long. Peeling logs for plywood. Even cutlery uses more steel than the turning tool industry. That's where the balance of attributes mentioned above really comes to light. Us woodturners, we're just the happy benefactor of someone's good idea (like Glaser) to use those steels for other purposes.

 

[Bill Blasic]

As far as 10V and 15V, I really don't know if there is enough edge retention difference to make it worth the extra expense.
Robo a quick comparison of Thompson vs D-Way shows 5/8 V at Thompson $100 and at D-way 5/8" $99, 1/2"V at Thompson $75 and at D-way 1/2" $85. Not much difference and I do have a few from D-way.

 

[John K Jordan]

As for Glaser tools, I didn't find that they were the apex of turning tools. I prefer Thompson and Crown PM in every aspect. And the thing I didn't like about my set was having to swap tools into the handle for every operation.

I don't much care for proprietary tool handles, even if they are quick-change.

Sorry if you've seen this before...

I buy Thompson and other tools without handles and make handles with inserts I make from aluminum, brass, or steel. I've made lots of handles like this so usually I only have to swap them when a tool gets dull and I pull a spare sharp one from the drawer. (A storing tools with no handles takes up a LOT less space than if each tool has a handle!)



Use them for Hunter tools too.



These are cheap and easy to make - if interested I posted a document on how I make them - mostly on the wood lathe with woodturning tools.

Thread 'Turning metal on a wood lathe'

Oct 6, 2024

I wrote this PFD document for a demo I did on turning metals, primarily aluminum and brass, on a wood lathe with woodturning tools. Relativity easy to do!

For an example I show how I make inserts for lathe tools. The one I show is fairly small but the method is the same for any size.

JKJ

• John K Jordan
• Replies: 32
• Forum: Tutorials and Tips

• 

I really like handles where I can store the excess length of a long shaft deep in the handle and leave just the working end exposed. As the tool gets shorter, I can keep the same working length exposed. I think a shorter and consistent exposed length helps me with fine tool control when turning certain things.



Some years ago Thompson and other started making handles like this with room inside the handle to park extra tool length.

JKJ

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I don't much care for proprietary tool handles, even if they are quick-change.

Sorry if you've seen this before...

I buy Thompson and other tools without handles and make handles with inserts I make from aluminum, brass, or steel. I've made lots of handles like this so usually I only have to swap them when a tool gets dull and I pull a spare sharp one from the drawer. (A storing tools with no handles takes up a LOT less space than if each tool has a handle!)

View attachment 79754

Use them for Hunter tools too.

View attachment 79755

These are cheap and easy to make - if interested I posted a document on how I make them - mostly on the wood lathe with woodturning tools.

Thread 'Turning metal on a wood lathe'

Oct 6, 2024

I wrote this PFD document for a demo I did on turning metals, primarily aluminum and brass, on a wood lathe with woodturning tools. Relativity easy to do!

For an example I show how I make inserts for lathe tools. The one I show is fairly small but the method is the same for any size.

JKJ

• John K Jordan
• Replies: 32
• Forum: Tutorials and Tips

• 

I really like handles where I can store the excess length of a long shaft deep in the handle and leave just the working end exposed. As the tool gets shorter, I can keep the same working length exposed. I think a shorter and consistent exposed length helps me with fine tool control when turning certain things.

View attachment 79756

Some years ago Thompson and other started making handles like this with room inside the handle to park extra tool length.

JKJ

I grew so accustomed to buying unhandled tools from Thompson that i never even noticed that he sells handles too. But I do prefer to turn my own, admittedly not as fancy and clever as yours. ;-)

I usually use brass for the ferrule and epoxy the tool into the handle.

 

[David Shombert]

I had several of Jerry’s original tools, and as the steel got used up I realized that I had come to really prefer the handles - the way they felt in hand, the way they wouldn’t roll, everything about them. So I drilled & tapped a couple holes in each one for set screws and I continue to use them long after Jerry’s steel is gone. Any tools that I’ve bought since then, I’ve bought from Doug; I like the quality and I like him.

 

[John K Jordan]

Any tools that I’ve bought since then, I’ve bought from Doug; I like the quality and I like him.

Have you tried Doug's handles? I make most of my handles but have a couple of Doug's and like them for certain tools. Also won't roll.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I prefer to take the tool out of the handle to sharpen. I have single collet handles and double collet handles and some of Thompson rounded corner square handles. My favorites though are the original Thompson round soft covered aluminum handles. Just love the way they feel and they are comfortable any time of the year, winter summer they always feel good.

 

[Dan Hewitt]

Some maybe interested to know that Woodcut Tool's founder Ken Port collaborated with Jerry to design the Woodcut Tru Grind tool holder in the early 2000's. From my discussion with Ken, Jerry really assisted to make this Tool Holder simple to use yet functional, the ability to hold all tools with no need for an adaptor.

 

[John K Jordan]

I prefer to take the tool out of the handle to sharpen. I have single collet handles and double collet handles and some of Thompson rounded corner square handles. My favorites though are the original Thompson round soft covered aluminum handles. Just love the way they feel and they are comfortable any time of the year, winter summer they always feel good.

Have you used any of what I think I remember are called "Monster" handles? They are fairly heavy steel covered with tough black foam, set screws on the end to hold tools. I bought several many moons ago, even special ordered a double-ended one to fit different size tool shaft on either end. What I have are large and heavy, well made, perfect for big turnings - too bad I got bored with turning big, haven't used one for years. I can't find where they are still in business but I see copycats for sale.

Mine are just taking up space - I ought to get rid of them. Trade them for a box of donuts or something.

JKJ

 

[John K Jordan]

...I do prefer to turn my own,...I usually use brass for the ferrule and epoxy the tool into the handle.

I used to do the same. Then when I accidentally found myself with too many tools and not enough space I had an epiphany.
I began to remove handles. .(Just heat the epoxy and twist)

Imagine how many tools with wooden handles wouldn't fit into this shallow drawer, right behind me at the lathe?

And now since the drill bits have all left to live with their new drill bit friends, there is even more space for unhandled tools.
Somebody help me.

JKJ

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Somebody help me.

JKJ

Send me your checkbook and credit cards. Uh... so you can't use them anymore.

(Pin numbers would be appreciated, too.)

 

[John K Jordan]

Send me your checkbook and credit cards. Uh... so you can't use them anymore.

(Pin numbers would be appreciated, too.)

What a kind and thoughtful person you are!

 

[Tom Kamila]

Jerry bought one of my turnings at delMano Gallery back in the early nineties and sent me a nice 1/2" bowl gouge with a shot filled red anodized handle. He said in his note that it was air harden tool steel. I still use it, nice tool, nice guy!

 

[Neil S]

For sure there is a HUGE difference between standard M2 and M42 and V10.

robo hippy

In every day use at the lathe I don't find much difference between any of those steels or between V10 and V15. There are some subtle differences, some of which are as much to do with personal preferences, but not enough to pay a lot more for any one of them. For example, I have some Woodcut gouges tips that are made from M2 that are probably tempered a bit harder than most M2 (possible because the shortness of their flutes) and they perform comparatively well with certain cuts along side of all of the other steel types in my tool rack.

When I did some controlled testing I did find some differences, but other than tungsten carbide, there was no outstanding performer that was worth paying a lot of extra money for, IMO.





This last graph and the following one show that there are different aspects of performance depending on the purpose of the cut. Some steels perform better with edge durability when doing heavy duty wood removal shown in the above two graphs, while others come to the fore when just doing fine finishing cuts shown in the following graph. The difference in this respect are highlighted by M42 in the above and below graphs.



Here is how M2 performed in my testing compared to some of the other steels when doing heavy wing cuts in hard wood, so not so good with heavy cuts...


But, in my experience, M2 performs reasonably well with lighter finishing cuts and I know some turners prefer it for just that purpose.

Some of this comes down to personal preferences and turning styles, heavy handed turner might come to different conclusion about the performance of a steel compared to a turner who is all about finesse.

My advice to anyone who is at the stage in their turning journey where they only have a few turning tools is to disregard the small differences that there are in the woodturning steels and concentrate on the other aspects of the craft, which will make a far greater difference for them.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Neil, I know you do a lot of testing but above the charts do not let anyone know how they were sharpened. For myself I found that a 180 grit CBN wheel and my 10V steel gives me the best balance between sharpness and the length of time I can turn between sharpening. That in no way purports the sharpness that one could achieve using different grits of CBN wheels. A kind gentleman on this site gave me a 1000 grit CBN wheel for my Tormek and when I sharpened one of my 10V tools with that I don't know other than stropping would get it any sharper. Without knowing how you sharpened yours I would still guess that this 1000 grit sharpened tool would run circles against the tools you used in the light finishing shear cuts. I know it's not a contest but my conclusions on who is starting their journey (taken from someone who at the start of their journey bought almost every tool in the Craft Supply catalog) that for the little bit extra it costs to buy a 10V or M42 tool over the price of an M2 tool it is foolish not to. I have always explained to my students about these differences. Just like telling them to buy your last lathe first, buy your last tools first. And I agree with Robo "For sure there is a HUGE difference between standard M2 and M42 and V10".

 

[Russell Nugent]

Just like telling them to buy your last lathe first, buy your last tools first.

So unless you can buy the best just don't start turning?

 

[John K Jordan]

So unless you can buy the best just don't start turning?

All is relative. I met a very creative guy in Venice Italy whose turning tools were sharpened screwdrivers. His lathe tailstock was a nail in a piece of wood clamped to his workbench; the headstock was a Dewalt drill held in a vise. He had great fun making things in his tiny shop.

Here he's arranging things in his store window.


JKJ