I have read recently and I cannot recall where, some comments regarding carbide cutters. According to the writer there is a difference in the carbide used by Eliminator and Hunter and that used by Easy Rougher. The assertion was that the Eliminator and Hunters tips were of a more modern technology and better turning tool. Eliminator does advertise their cutter tips as being Nano-Carbide. Any comments on that? I would like to purchase some new cuttters for my tools, provided the new ones would fit the tool properly.
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More carbide cutter questions
- Thread starter Wayne Spence
- Start date
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I don't know about the specific metal makeup used by each, but the obvious difference between the Eliminator and Hunter and the Easy series is the cutter profile. The Easy uses a flat top profile and does scraping and not cutting. While the holder may be able to accommodate a different cutter, is may not have the tip clearance to use a cutter tip with the same profile as the Hunter and Easy.
The other issue is will the screw that fits into the insert work with an insert from a different manufacturer? In my limited research to create a carbide tool over the last year using off the shelf inserts, I have found that the Hunters and Eliminators of the trade have inserts unique to their tool. Meaning (at least Hunter) the manufacturer has done a lot of work to ensure that their cutter seats perfectly with their "set screw" (I use that term loosely, but the screw that holds the insert onto the tool).
Carbide inserts for woodturning are somewhat unique to woodturning. Yes, there are some similarities to metal turning apps, but what I have found is they tweak the carbide manufacturers dies to afford them a level of performance you can't get with an off the shelf insert. You can buy inserts for less that will work, but I don't think they work as well as the ones from a Hunter or Eliminator (I don't own an Eliminator, but have a lot of Hunter tools).
Pay the money, use the insert that the manufacturer sells.
The other issue is will the screw that fits into the insert work with an insert from a different manufacturer? In my limited research to create a carbide tool over the last year using off the shelf inserts, I have found that the Hunters and Eliminators of the trade have inserts unique to their tool. Meaning (at least Hunter) the manufacturer has done a lot of work to ensure that their cutter seats perfectly with their "set screw" (I use that term loosely, but the screw that holds the insert onto the tool).
Carbide inserts for woodturning are somewhat unique to woodturning. Yes, there are some similarities to metal turning apps, but what I have found is they tweak the carbide manufacturers dies to afford them a level of performance you can't get with an off the shelf insert. You can buy inserts for less that will work, but I don't think they work as well as the ones from a Hunter or Eliminator (I don't own an Eliminator, but have a lot of Hunter tools).
Pay the money, use the insert that the manufacturer sells.
Wayne
I'm with Steve, The difference in price is not worth the head ache use what the tool calls for.JMHO
Harry
I'm with Steve, The difference in price is not worth the head ache use what the tool calls for.JMHO
Harry
Hunter inserts vs others
I bought the small Hunter tool to use in the Jamison when it first came out and I really love it. I know its a little dull but still cuts great. Later I bought some of the brand X inserts to make my own tools and see how I liked the larger ones. They worked fairly well, This winter I compared them to his and I can safely say Brand X does not stay sharp nearly as long as the Humters. I think a lot has to do with brand X not being coated.
I really love the small Hunter tapered tools for ornaments and other small things. The taper really cuts down on the vibration. I can also say I won't be buying any more of brand X because when you count the longer sharpness time the Hunter is a lot cheaper in the long run.
Vernon
I bought the small Hunter tool to use in the Jamison when it first came out and I really love it. I know its a little dull but still cuts great. Later I bought some of the brand X inserts to make my own tools and see how I liked the larger ones. They worked fairly well, This winter I compared them to his and I can safely say Brand X does not stay sharp nearly as long as the Humters. I think a lot has to do with brand X not being coated.
I really love the small Hunter tapered tools for ornaments and other small things. The taper really cuts down on the vibration. I can also say I won't be buying any more of brand X because when you count the longer sharpness time the Hunter is a lot cheaper in the long run.
Vernon
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
If you try to use the Hunter or eliminator flat like you would use the Easy wood tools you will either get a great catch or have trouble controlling the cut. These are cutting tools or what I call shear scraping. If you use it as a bevel rubbing cutting tool you will have it tilted to one side in order to rub the bevel. The cut is similar to using a bowl gouge and cutting with just the tip with the flute at about 45 degrees.
To use it as a shear scraping tool I tilt the top of the cuttter toward the work so the bottom lip is scraping the wood.
the body of the cutter is recessed below the cutting lip as was mentioned above. This is what gives it a very sharp cutting edge.
If you go here you will see some videos I did on how to use the Hunter tools. It may answer some of your questions.
http://www.hunterwoodturningtool.com/tutorials/
You can feasibly use a regular screw to hold the cutter in place. However you can easily break the cutter if you apply too much pressure, and the shavings will hit the head of the screw. The screw that is used in these cutters have a taper that exactly matches the tapered hole in the cutter. These lock the cutter in place and are low enough in profile to let the shaving fly over them. They are Torx head screws so you would need a Torx wrench.
To use it as a shear scraping tool I tilt the top of the cuttter toward the work so the bottom lip is scraping the wood.
the body of the cutter is recessed below the cutting lip as was mentioned above. This is what gives it a very sharp cutting edge.
If you go here you will see some videos I did on how to use the Hunter tools. It may answer some of your questions.
http://www.hunterwoodturningtool.com/tutorials/
You can feasibly use a regular screw to hold the cutter in place. However you can easily break the cutter if you apply too much pressure, and the shavings will hit the head of the screw. The screw that is used in these cutters have a taper that exactly matches the tapered hole in the cutter. These lock the cutter in place and are low enough in profile to let the shaving fly over them. They are Torx head screws so you would need a Torx wrench.
carbide cutters
Steve, Harry, Vernon, John-Your words were not wasted on me, however, I got a used Hunter cutter from a friend, it was about to be thrown away but had some life left. It worked OK in place of my flat topped cutter but was slightly smaller in diameter and the screw from my cutter did not fit properly-that was the main problem. If anyone is thinking of switching makes of cutters please don't, use what is designed for your tool. Much safer .
Steve, Harry, Vernon, John-Your words were not wasted on me, however, I got a used Hunter cutter from a friend, it was about to be thrown away but had some life left. It worked OK in place of my flat topped cutter but was slightly smaller in diameter and the screw from my cutter did not fit properly-that was the main problem. If anyone is thinking of switching makes of cutters please don't, use what is designed for your tool. Much safer .
Odie
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
At first, I used my Hunter tools for just about every aspect of turning a bowl......but, came to the conclusion that there really isn't anything the Hunter can do, that a properly sharpened HSS tool can't do just as well.
With one exception.
I'll be continuing to use the Hunter on bowls with radical inward slanting walls. Here, from the widest point of the interior, up to the rim the best direction of cut reverses from most bowl shapes. Since I require a perfect finish on the interior, not the abbreviated finish some hollow form turners are satisfied with, the Hunter is proving to be superior.
Since I use the Hunter for such limited application, it looks like the carbide inserts will last me a long time........their expense isn't going to be a big factor for me.......even for +20 bucks apiece.
ooc
With one exception.
I'll be continuing to use the Hunter on bowls with radical inward slanting walls. Here, from the widest point of the interior, up to the rim the best direction of cut reverses from most bowl shapes. Since I require a perfect finish on the interior, not the abbreviated finish some hollow form turners are satisfied with, the Hunter is proving to be superior.
Since I use the Hunter for such limited application, it looks like the carbide inserts will last me a long time........their expense isn't going to be a big factor for me.......even for +20 bucks apiece.
ooc
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