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Mortise or Tennon

Joined
Aug 12, 2022
Messages
88
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Location
Tavernier, FL
Hi all, I slid my headstock down on my Powermatic 2014 to rough turn this 18” behemoth of green Mahogany. I always use tenons but have never turned one this big on my lathe. Would I be better off to use a mortise instead? It seems it would be stronger. It’s very wet and heavy. Thanks in advance!IMG_4767.jpegIMG_4780.jpeg
 
Tenon vs. mortise seems to be one of those personal preferences topics, and you'll get recommendations for both here on the forum.

Personally, for an 18" rough blank, I would use a 4" tenon in my large chuck. Some folks can get away with a smaller tenon, if it's really well made. If so, I would suggest you keep the tail stock up as long as you can. Maybe that's not feasible on a 20" bed.
 
My advice, stop trying to true the black from the outside diameter. Start cutting on the face and continue onto the O.D. Much less shock on your hands and the lathe. The answer to your question is do what you prefer. I use larger diameter jaws with my Oneway chuck when I do that size bowl. A stack of 18” bowls in soft maple.
 

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I hardly ever use a mortise as I don't think they are as strong as a tenon. As most of my work is started on the Nova screw and I turn the piece and clamp to the 2"+ tenon size of the nova chuck the only time I use a bigger tenon is when I'm coring. The 30% tenon size is a good idea but for 25+ years I've got away with that 2"+ tenon.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I’ll make a new tennon of the larger size. I think I can get close to that 30 % with my largest jaws
 
I use tenons 99% of the time. For 18” it would be ~6” dia. The initial tenon does NOT have to determine the shape of the lower part of the work. A smaller tenon can always be cut once the heavier load cutting is done. At times I may cut 3 tenons of reducing dia, depending on what shape I want to achieve, and/or if coring a bowl (which I would do with your blank).
 
Thanks for the info Doug! Unfortunately I can’t core this one as I’m turning a18” blank on a 14” lathe using a lowered bed extension. (A first for me)
 
For bowls, I use a recess. To me, it does give a "protected" place for my signature. I can also sand both inside and outside at the same time so no picking up the abrasives two times for inside, outside, oh, 3 times, sanding the tenon where it was removed. When our club first started, I remember a discussion about recess or tenon. A number of turners commented about their failures with the recess. Being a newbie, I didn't say anything, but thinking back on it, I had all the problems they did, but figured out how to overcome them. I use a recess for all of my bowls. I used a 4 inch recess on the biggest bowl I turned, which was 22 inch diameter, and I do core every bowl that is worth coring. Some people do the "remove all traces of how it was attached to lathe" thing. The only people that seems to make any difference to is other turners, and not to the people who buy my bowls. One friend, his wife does not like the recess, so he turns them off. If I left the tenon on the bottoms of my bowls, my madrone would have far more cracks since I once turn only, and won't boil them.

robo hippy
 
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