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Moving a Jet 1642EVS - disassembly question

K

Kurt Manley

Joined
Jan 3, 2023
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Location
Arnold, CA
Today I won an auction from a government surplus site for a JET1642EVS. I'm cautiously excited as it could be a nice step up from my current lathe and I have my fingers crossed it is in decent shape. It was a good enough deal that I am willing to take the gamble. It came from a high school shop.
I need to go pick it up, and due to some logistics with visiting family and getting it up to my house in the mountains it would be ideal if I could load it into the back of my 4Runner.
It's too far away to ask a friend to go help me and the auction site specified they don't help load so I will be on my own. I am hoping to disassemble it on site to facilitate getting it into the SUV. It looks like the headstock is hopefully removable and possibly the legs are able to be removed from the ways. Can anyone confirm this? And is the headstock and other parts something I could wrangle on my own? I am reasonably strong but also reasonably adverse to herniated discs. I could hire someone from taskrabbit or such to help me load it if needed. At 400lbs total it seems (on paper at least) like I might be able to handle each major part on its own.
Any thoughts or tips on moving it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and thanks for everything I have learned from my near daily read of this forum since I got back into turning a year ago. I have learned a ton!
 
I’ve moved my 1642 (and my PM 3520) a couple times.
The headstock is the challenge. Heavy and no places to grab it. But if you can get the lathe to the back of the truck it’ll reduce the distance you have to deal with.
I built a sort of cradle (on site) from short 2x4s so the head and tail stocks had somewhere to sit.
For the legs, I got a sawhorse or something under the bed and removed one leg. Then scooted that end onto the trunk and removed the other leg. Works pretty well with my Tacoma (tailgate is about the right height to make it work). I think I screwed some 2x4s to a sawhorse to get the height right to support the bed. Or else clamped something in a workmate.
Good luck and congrats.
 
Having a helper would be ideal. Furniture mover dollies are pretty handy and dirt cheap at Harbor freight. You might almost be able to put a small one under each end, roll the whole machine out, then remove one end/leg and slide it in, then remove other leg. (or something like that) Taking it all apart and having to lift each part may extra work.

I'd screw something on the spindle to protect the threads. (faceplate or small chuck?)
 
Thank you very much gentlemen! Excellent ideas about the sawhorse and using the truck in the similar way to remove the legs and everyone's perspective is very helpful.
Since there are a couple 1642 owners here, do any of you know what I will need to remove the studs at the end of the bed that look like they prevent the headstock and tailstock from sliding out?
Thanks!
 
I moved a Powermatic 3520 by myself. Up basement stairs and all. I just borrowed a stair climbing dolly and it not only climbed stairs but also climbed up in the back of my van.
For the Jet, you have to remove one stop and the head slides off, just like the tailstock. Should be no issue moving it yourself.
 
Kurt Manley said:
Since there are a couple 1642 owners here, do any of you know what I will need to remove the studs at the end of the bed that look like they prevent the headstock and tailstock from sliding out?
Click to expand...
It just screws into the body of the bed. There's flats on there for a wrench - just take a crescent wrench and some channel lock pliers (also, I'm too lazy to go out to the shop and measure right now). Mine go on/off just finger-tight, but then my lathes haven't been sitting in a high school shop.

Darryl Fective said:
Furniture mover dollies are pretty handy and dirt cheap at Harbor freight.
Click to expand...
The last couple days, I've moved my 1642 (plus my PM, 2 bandsaws, and a bunch of other stuff) across the driveway (from garage to my new shop!). For the lathes, I used these things, which worked ok except for 2 things - first, the small wheels got stuck chips and shavings. Also, every time I went over a bump or hump or slight slope, they would come loose. My 1642 doesn't have feet screwed into the legs, so I ran a bolt thru the feet-hole to secure the wheels to the lathe. Used a floor jack to get the wheels on - if your floor jack is too tall to fit under the leg, use a 2x4 or 2x6 as a lever (one end on some blocks, under the leg, and other end on the jack).
Had similar problems with other items using a furniture dolly (wheels were better, but bumps were still "fun").
I wish I had gone ahead and sprung for a hydraulic lift table, but was feeling cheap and impatient (Harbor Freight is almost a 2 hour round trip for me).
You might contact the auction house - they may already have the lathe on a pallet and could loan you a pallet jack?
 
Dave Landers said:
I’ve moved my 1642 (and my PM 3520) a couple times.
The headstock is the challenge. Heavy and no places to grab it. But if you can get the lathe to the back of the truck it’ll reduce the distance you have to deal with.
I built a sort of cradle (on site) from short 2x4s so the head and tail stocks had somewhere to sit.
For the legs, I got a sawhorse or something under the bed and removed one leg. Then scooted that end onto the trunk and removed the other leg. Works pretty well with my Tacoma (tailgate is about the right height to make it work). I think I screwed some 2x4s to a sawhorse to get the height right to support the bed. Or else clamped something in a workmate.
Good luck and congrats.
Click to expand...

A suggestion for the headstock is to slip a rod through the spindle, 3520 will pass a 5/8 (get cold-rolled, hot-rolled won't fit) so two people can pick it up, one on each end. If you're bold enough, remove the motor, undoing the wiring at the motor end but take a photo of the color scheme. 1642 manual says the headstock through-bore is only 3/8, a little surprising since it's same size 1-1/4" spindle thread as the 3520. You might be able to pick it up with a 3/8 rod but be careful. I've done the 5/8 through 3520 headstock a couple of times, works well. Good luck with your purchase!
 
That is long bed - be sure it fits into your forunner.

I have moved jets and powermatics with legs, ways, and headstock assembled and the tailstock and banjo taken off.
together.

Best moving solution: borrow a trailer, two furniture Dollie’s, and a 2x4.
Remove tailstock and banjo. Put each in a separate box and secure the boxes so you don’t crack the casting if you have to stop suddenly. Use the 2x4 to lever the head stock end high enough to slide a dolley under the feet. Now you may be able to load it on the trailer by lifting the tailstock legs and moving it like a wheel barrow. If you need a dolly under the other legs you need to keep the other dolly from rolling when you lever up the tailstock end.

I have moved a Powermatic head stock by myself couldn’t do it today.
Jet headstock is lighter. If you have a hydraulic table it becomes a piece of cake.
 
The motor could be removed, which would eliminate a good portion of the weight of the headstock. The first step would be to disconnect the motor cord at either the motor or the controller (there is a manual available on line that shows all of the electrical connections). The second step is to remove the motor, loosen the adjusting bolt on the motor mount, open the access door to the belt, flip the belt off of the motor pulley, then remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt and the motor will come right out of there. Note: first slide the headstock to the right so there is bed below the motor and put 2 x's under the motor while you detach it.
By doing this and removing the legs the heaviest most awkward piece will be the bed.
 
All good suggestions above. I don't believe the headstock on a 1642 is nearly as heavy as a 3520. It's probably 75-100 pounds, and as noted, there are few places to grab hold of it, but I believe it's a doable lift.

My way of moving it would be to use the cheap furniture dolly with a piece of plywood to make relatively a flat deck. Lower the headstock down to the dolly (gravity is your friend, but still use good body mechanics), roll over to the 4Runner, and carefully lift up and inside. If you can back up to the lathe or move the lathe to the back of the 4Runner, then it's just slide off-slide in, piece of pie. (Putting the banjo and tailstock back on the bed once it's in the truck will keep them stable.)

Reversing the process once you're back home, in a situation like Dave's with irregular ground, you will hopefully have some help. Place bed upside down on floor, attach legs, lift and rotate up to normal position. Put it where it will live. Slide headstock on, banjo on, tailstock on, et voila'!
 
When I sold my 3520A, my buddy loaded it into a Volkswagon Jetta. It was overloaded for sure, as it floated off down the road. So, it can be done. As others have said, best have help, and even more than you think you need. The motor can come off, and that is a huge weight benefit. Never thought of the rod through the headstock, excellent idea Chuck! Depending on how you want to load it into the car, the legs are not too difficult to remove. Best bet would be to find a buddy with a pick up. When strapping it into place, I ALWAYS run the strap to make a loop around the bed, and then to the other side. If you just go over the top, the lathe can still move around. The loop secures it in place. Maybe have some moving blankets handy too. You could lay the bed on its side as well.

robo hippy
 
For a while I was into collecting old safes/vaults, so these hydraulic dollies made moving my 4224 (with almost 900 pounds of sand) out of my shop an easy singlehanded task.
 

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I have a 1642. The headstock is not nearly heavy as a PM 3520 (I had a B). When I bought the used 3520, I needed help with the headstock and bed, but it fit easily into my Honda Fit. The car actually seemed to handle better with that added weight. A 1642 is less of a load. An additional person would definitely make the job easier.
 
Thank you for all of these extremely helpful replies!!! I feel pretty well prepared to go grab the lathe and confident I can get it apart and into my SUV. Thanks for taking the time to reply!
 
R Henrickson said:
I have a 1642. The headstock is not nearly heavy as a PM 3520 (I had a B). When I bought the used 3520, I needed help with the headstock and bed, but it fit easily into my Honda Fit. The car actually seemed to handle better with that added weight. A 1642 is less of a load. An additional person would definitely make the job easier.
Click to expand...
I loved my Honda Fit. I could lay down my bicycle in the back and not even remove the front wheel.
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
One thing that bugs be in moving lathes is that the headstock does not have any good hand holds. You might want to try tying movers straps on it and then at least have better handhold. Not too sure about the rod as it might damage the morse taper.
Click to expand...
A couple months ago, a group of us built rock bars on a heavily used local trail and used a rock sling to move a beachball sized rock out of the way. The slings are expensive to buy, and so are often homemade. Maybe the concept would work for headstocks.
1700320299226.jpeg
 
I wanted to update this thread for the next person looking for info on moving this lathe.... I went and picked it up today and it was a snap. I had the lathe disassembled and loaded in the back of my 4Runner in about 20 minutes, all done by myself. Lifting the headstock was not bad at all. I was able to pick it up and carry it without trouble, the bed was the heaviest part but still very manageable. I removed the headstock, tailstock, and tool rest, then I removed the bed from the legs, I did this with the legs at the bumper of my truck so when I took the first leg off I was able to slide the bed into the back of my truck for support while I took the other leg off. I then strapped the bed down in the back of my SUV and then put the headstock back on for transport.
Thanks again to everyone who chimed in with advice. I appreciate it and definitely was feeling confident when I went thanks to what I had read here.
 
The good news is if there's a specific day for loading out there usually are others there having the same issues with heavy equipment. I've helped others load their machines and in turn they helped me.

Also, I know they usually say no help in loading for liability reasons. But I've had staff offer help a number of times.

Boards or plywood for a ramp and a come-along winch can do wonders.
 
Kurt, I am going to look at the same model lathe. What kind of screws were the legs attached with? Trying to determine what tools to bring with me. Thanks.
 
Greg LaGrand said:
Kurt, I am going to look at the same model lathe. What kind of screws were the legs attached with? Trying to determine what tools to bring with me. Thanks.
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You wont need much. The legs on mine were held on by cap screws so bring allen wrenches. I can't remember for certain buy I believe they were 6mm. Just bring a set of metric and standard to be safe. I'd also bring a set of small channel locks in case the stops for the head/tail stock are stuck. You only need to remove one and the head and tailstocks just slide off.
I moved mine by myself twice and it wasn't hard. It is fairly heavy but manageable.
 
Greg LaGrand said:
Kurt, I am going to look at the same model lathe. What kind of screws were the legs attached with? Trying to determine what tools to bring with me. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I just moved one 1642 to give to a friend.

I checked the cap screws on the other one in storage - each leg is held by four 6mm hex socket bolts. If sitting for a long time or gunked up from turning wet wood, I'd take a 6mm allen wrench with enough torque to loosen - I generally use allen bits that fit into a 3/8" socket wrench handle.

My friend was on his way to help me move it but before he got here I had it loaded onto a low trailer and strapped down. (I'm 75 and have one bad shoulder but had no trouble)

I put double doors in several places in the shop and fortunately one was very near the lathe!
Equipment used besides the big allen wrench: a length of 2x4 and two low, carpet-covered furniture dollys. What I did:

  • Backed the trailer up right next to the doors.
  • Pull the lathe out in the middle of the floor, remove the tool rest, headstock, tailstock, and banjo.
  • Remove the four bolts on one leg and supported that end with a length of 2x4 cut to fit. It was stable due to the legs fastened to the far end.
  • Moved the leg out of the way.
  • Removed the 2x4 and lowered the free end of the bed to the floor. (I could easily manage one end of the bed by myself.)
  • Removed the four bolts on the other end, positioned the 2x4 carefully, moved that leg, and lowered that end of the bed to the floor.
  • Put both ends of the bed on low furniture dollys and rolled them to the door, lifted one end and slid the bed onto the trailer.
  • Slid and rotated the bed onto the trailer, moved the two legs and headstock to the trailer and strapped them down. Put the other stuff in the truck.
  • At the destination, we used forks on the tractor to move the pieces. Had two people then!
It would be easier with a second person. If you have to move it a ways at the pickup place, the furniture dollys would be a big help. If there are steps, I'd hire someone to help.

BTW, I've set up lathes in the shop by myself three ways:
  • by the lifting, blocking, bolting method, one end at a time.
  • used a rope hung from trusses to hold one end of the bed up to fasten the first leg, then lift and secure the second.
  • with a very heavy PM3520b, slid the pieces out of a trailer and moved them into the shop with help from the furniture dollys, then used a big automobile floor jack to lift the bed to position first one leg then the other. Scooted the bed/legs into place. (Headstock is quite heavy on that lathe - used a furniture dolly to move it to the lathe. Can't remember how I got it in place but I was younger then!)
JKJ
 
When I bought my 3520A, it may have come on a pallet, but I can't remember.... What I didn't know at the time was to put the legs on with the bed upside down on the floor and then tip it into the up right position. I did clamp one leg to a bench, and muscled the bed up onto that leg by myself. I was much younger and stronger back then....

robo hippy
 
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