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Multiple bowl gouge grinds?

Joined
May 30, 2022
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Belchertown, MA
I’m wondering if people use different grinds for different tasks, or just stick with the grind that’s most familiar to them?

The gouge I use most is ground similar to what Glenn Lucas uses (I downloaded his sharpening guide). I also have a 40/40 grind, but don’t use it very often. Then I have a BOB that’s almost never needed. I have tried several others, but always go back.

I have a theory that good results is more a matter of learning how to use a particular grind than having the right grind for the task.

Thoughts?
 
You’re probably correct. I’ve heard said that the expert turners could turn with a sharpened hoe.

In my case I’ve adopted fairly similar grinds that are modestly swept back. I’ve locked in the Wolverine jig and use the same settings for all spindle gouges, detail gouge, and bowl gouges other than the distance from the wheel to provide different angles (35deg for spindle/detail gouges, 40deg for 3/8” bowl gouges, 45deg for 1/2” bowl gouges, and 50deg for 5/8” bowl gouges, I have a Robust 5/8” that I sharpen at 55deg…still not happy with that gouge, also have a BoB I freehand sharpen much steeper and without much for wings).
 
I have several different angles for various purposes. 55' for going across the bottom of an open deep sided bowl, roughing gouge is 40' as most of other gouges are. Like Ron I have several at 45', mainly larger dia 1/5, 5/8,3/4. Tipped tools made from Tantung I have had to change the angle on the wings to get around the weakness of the steel, not sure of the angle there as I did it by eye. It works, so I never checked it.
 
I have 3 grinds on my bowl gouges. 40 degree nose on two. My Thompson V with an ellsworth appearance. A Robust 1/2" U shaped that i put a 40/40 that i call 40/45 because i grind slightly longer wings. Then I have a Robust 5/8" that has a 55 degree ellsworth grind. My bottom of the bowl too is a Hunter Badger cupped carbide tool.
 
I’m wondering if people use different grinds for different tasks
For most bowls & hf exteriors I use an Ellsworth grind for hollowing bowls I use an an Ellsworth grind with the heel ground off
For the first inch inside a cut rim bowl I often use a Michelson grind on a 3 how/8 diameter bar gouge.
For problem punky woods I sometime use a finger nail ground spindle gouge

For platters I often use a 40/40

For spindles I use and SRG with traditional grind, fingernail spindle gouge, sometimes a continental gouge with a slight wing
 
I use a 55 degree swep bask on all my bowls, inside and out then a scraper to remove and minor tool marks. This grind has served me well on hundreds of bowls Omer the years. I stick with what works for me. I advise this for any turner.
 
Almost nobody uses the traditional grind anymore.....except for a few old die-hards like me! :)

I use it exclusively and can do just about anything I want it to do, because it's all about sharpness and how that sharp edge is presented to the wood. These two things require separate individual skill sets, and work together while the skill of the turner makes it happen.

The traditional grind can have multiple bevel angles, and still be appropriately called the traditional grind. Because of that, usefulness can vary greatly.....again, depending on the skill of the turner.

Sometimes the "new and improved".......isn't! :)

=o=
 
Straight out of Keith Rowley's "Woodturning: A Foundation Course" from 30 years ago. And if I recall some numbers:
60° bowl gouge, with swept wings.
35°(?) for spindle and roughing gouges.
??? for skews. 30 or 35°?
70-80° for scrapers. Maybe? I dunno, they all work as long as they are sharp and my hand-eye coordination hasn't forsaken me. Maybe I should dig out my book and check them over. Maybe.

I dunno, I haven't changed from, nor re-checked those angles since several Presidents ago. (I'm just a periodic guy.) I sharpen, I cut, I resharpen, I cut some more... I don't think about it. I just do it. Shavings from some woods, chips from others, and nice surfaces every time.

Anyone here that thinks that they've thought of something new, like bevel angles, compared to the past... to the total history of turning a lump of wood on a lathe, would be mistaken. Sharp edge + practiced hand = good results. That's all. Don't get hung up in the ever changing minutia marketers create for us, it will probably not mean much to your results in the long run. Unless you really like experimenting, then have at it.

If it works, keep doing it. If not, change it up. But always enjoy yourself and your efforts.
 
To me, that 40/40 is an internet and marketing gimmick. I have two grinds and use a shallow arc scraper for cleaning up the bottom of the inside. I use the Irish grind and the Hannes grind.
 
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