My NOT last ever lathe

[Don C Davis]

Well folks this is a follow up to my thread on 'Looking for my Last Lathe' in which I made a decision to go with a Vicmarc ASM 240 lathe. I had had some issues with my Revo Laguna 24-36 and begun searching for a lathe with the goal of it being the last one I would buy. First off let me start by saying that the customer/technical service guy I ended up dealing with at Laguna was fantastic--he did everything he could to get me straightened out--but I had basically made up my mind to buy a different lathe and did so. I ended up selling my lathe to a fella who worked as a service tech in the bottling industry--he was a certified electrician, and he determined the issue I had with my Laguna was that the power input to the VFD was not tightly connected and therefore caused issues, he was able to handle that issue, and says he has had no problems since he re-wired the VFD--and he did say that the VFD Laguna used was a low end one--and he would use a KBAC if he re-did it.

The 24-36 is a good bit heavier than the 18-36 and has a bigger locking plate for both the banjo and the tailstock--the banjo is really a good design with the exception that the locking lever for the tool post gets in the way of the tool rest occasionally- but it is adjustable--the gold standard in banjo's continues to be the Oneway I have a Robust and the original one on my NOVA DVR and a Oneway, and it is by far the best.

Now, onto the Vicmarc 240. I like this lathe a lot. First the couple of Cons--the power conversion unit is in a seperate box intended to be mounted separately from the lathe--goofy-it should be incorporated into the lathe body like on their 300 model. Another con is the belt changing operation--it requires that a 3mm allen screw is removed and then a small threaded knob unscrewed to open the latch covering the top pulleys, and then a cover plate must have a knob unthreaded to gain access to the lower pulley set--then a knob is loosened to allow lifting of the motor to loosen the pulley belt--at this point the belt easily can become entwined with this motor release knob, and it is a Royal PITA to get it loose again. Finally I have learned that I can easily stall this lathe out as well as my Laguna--this was surprising to me, based on the up front conversations I had with Woodworkers Emporium and Vicmarc themselves--at this point I am wishing I had gotten the VL 300. It has 3 HP vs the 2HP the 240 has--It will be very interesting to see what happens when I try to core a bowl with this 240.

PROS The pivoting headstock is super well designed, you pull a pin at the back of the headstock and then pivot it with the pin sitting in the hole until it slips into the next pre-drilled hole to give you a fixed position again--very nice--I am actually able to hollow a bowl by rotating it to the first position--22.5 degrees I think, and not bend over to do it--VERY nice! Another feature, that is just plain ignorant that Robust and Oneway will not even custom do for you, is the digital speed readout=having this feature is simple and inexpensively done--trust me I know form Mfg. background--and having it on this lathe has confirmed that I just don't know how fast a lathe is spinning without one--so despite some opinions it is my decided opinion that this is a good feature, and those who omit it are just **** ******** *** (words deleted by moderator). The banjo clamping is rock solid on this lathe. Much better than on the similarly designed Robust banjo clamping system--this one has the same round clamping plates--but for whatever reason is clamps more solidly--just as much as the Oneway banjo actually.The motor and bearings are extremely quiet, and despite the headstock being very short--from front to back, it is extremely stable in all my working with it. All in all the speed control is very dependable, and you can set whatever speed you want from very low---like 25 RPM to max speed or anything in between.

I feel that I would really like a Magma Black Titan lathe--but you have to say no to freight charges at some point, and for me that is a max of under a $1,000. I like the Vicmarc lathe a lot, but I am wondering if my handicap--having no nerves from about mid-calf down somehow limits my feel, but I swear I don't take as big of a roughing cut as my mentor-Nick Cook--and I don't stall my DVR--which makes me think the direct drive thing in the NOVA lathes is a good thing--I stall this lathe and the Laguna 24-36 I had very easily, and I have measured them (the shavings) and the big roughing cuts I make are only slightly larger than 1/16" so I don;t know why that should stall a lathe--my NOVA is wired to 220 and that is supposed to give it 2HP, and I never stall it....
Any questions about the Vicmarc or the Laguna 24-36, just let me know!!

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Congratulations on your new lathe! Sorry about the difficulties (might be worth discussing the stalling with Vicmarc?). I (we) might be in the minority, but I totally agree with you on the value of a rotating head stock. I have one on my Nova and can't foresee buying another lathe without the feature.

 

[Dan Stromberg]

Hi,

Just wanted to mention that I'm following this discussion with great interest. I've had my eyes on a new lathe for some time (finally hoping to step up from a mini lathe to a "full size".) Many of the obvious contenders are probably out of my price range, but the Laguna 1836 looks like a lot of lathe for the price.

This thread got me thinking, though. Do the Laguna lathes have a reputation for VFD (or other) problems?

Stepping up from a mini, this seems like a big jump. I realize sometimes you get what you pay for, but most of the other comparable options are at least $1000 more.

The other fear of mine is whether the current tariff discussions will impact the price, but that's a whole 'nother topic.

Dan

 

[Dean Center]

One observation that just occurred to me. The Laguna and Vicmarc have belts that can slip under load, while the DVR does not. Maybe that explains why more hp hasn't fixed it.

 

[Don C Davis]

Dan, some have mentioned that the VFD Laguna uses on their lathes is a cheap one--and I believe it is--having said that, I know a lot of folks that have an 18-36 and have no issues with it--the technical service guy I was working with at Laguna said he disagrees with their engineers and that they have had some issues with their VFD on the 24-36 which is wired for 220 Voltage--but not so on their 18-36 at 220 V. He actually has an 18-36 and he likes it very much.

Dean, I think I totally agree with you, and I really would like to find a higher end lathe with a direct drive system like NOVA has!

 

[Dan Stromberg]

Don,

Very interesting. I would have thought that the 220V 18-36 was essentially identical electrically to the 24-36, so a little bit surprising to hear that the VFD issues were only happening on one of the models. I guess more capacity also implies potentially more load on the system?

I apologize for hijacking your thread. I hope you get your lathe issues sorted out too!

Dan

 

[JeffSmith]

Don - after reading your post, I have to ask...did you turn on the lathe you bought before making the decision? Finding the issues you describe would have me asking if I could pack it up and send it back.
Not trying to be critical here. Some of what you duscuss is just getting adapted to a new piece of equipment, while some would be game breakers for me.
Turning is one of the few power tool operations where the tool moves the work while the operator presents the cutting edge. The interaction between machine and operator is different and, at least to me, more intimate than other macine operations. That places a premium on the machine user interface and experience; especially the ergonomics of the system.
When I buy a new car I do insist on driving it beforehand, just to make certain I’m making a decision I can live with.
I don’t know about the rest of the turning community, but buying a full size premium lathe and dropping nearly 5 figures on it just before retirement was a major investment for me. I spent almost a year getting time on the candidates I’d narrowed my search to. Help from the manufacturers/distributors located some candidates, a class at a craft school filled in one hard to find blank. Had to travel regionally a little, and met some great people along the way, and the lathe I wound up with suits me perfectly. It will be the last lathe I buy.
I will admit that the only thing it was missing was a speed readout. A small investment and a new readout was installed. Three months later it was removed as unnecessary and hasn’t been missed since.

 

[odie]

Don.....congratulations on the Vicmarc 240.

It is a lathe I'm interested in hearing more about. If you can manage it, I'd sure appreciate some photos showing the VL240 in various angles.

If I can interject an alternative thought here......I was once in agreement about the need for knowing the rpm, but I've changed my mind about that. Knowing the exact rpm isn't nearly as important as knowing what speed is best for eliminating as much vibration as possible. That "best speed" varies as a bowl progresses, and can be determined best by seeing physical indicators (things that vibrate on your lathe), and by your sense of feel (fingers on the bedways).......rather than a digital readout. That being said, if I did have a digital readout, I'd probably make use of it.......but, I don't believe it's as important as I once thought it might be...... There is a lot of starting and stopping during the bowl's progress, and knowing the exact rpm you were at, would make it easier to return to that exact rpm. I've solved that by having a magnetic indicator that is position-able around the circumference of the rheostat rpm knob.......works very well.....and, I don't know the exact rpm, but I can return to the exact speed I was at, before shutting down.

Having never had a rotating headstock, I have a theoretical belief that (for my style of turning) it would be a great advantage. That is, it would allow me to brace my hips on the lathe, while having a better access to the interior of bowls. 22.5° seems about perfect for my purposes. A sliding headstock wouldn't be as advantageous in that regard.

Regardless of all of this........I've had my 16" Woodfast lathe for 26 years now, and if I never have the chance to upgrade, I don't feel like I'm at a terrible disadvantage. I am limited to turning less than 16" diameter.....but, to be honest, I don't have access to many pieces bigger than that. I can do almost any shape I desire to do, and my 1 1/2 hp VS Leeson motor is adequate. I may not be able to hog out a bowl as swiftly as I could with a 2 or 3hp motor......but, this advantage really isn't where any significant time is saved.....getting a cut that requires little sanding isn't a matter of horsepower!

-----odie-----

 

[Bill Boehme]

Don, that is a very thorough review with lots of valuable information for potential buyers. Here are some shots in the dark that could be possible causes of your problem with stalling the lathe:

• It's possible that the parameters aren't correctly set on the inverter if the performance seems unreasonably low. A lot of people do some heavy duty turning (coring, hollowing, etc.) using a 2 HP Powermatic lathe. You should be getting comparable performance.
  
• Another possibility is that the belts are in the wrong position for heavy duty hogging of wood (it should be smallest pulley at motor end and largest pulley at spindle).
• With an inverter used for speed control the maximum output power is directly proportional to drive frequency divided by 60 Hz. Here is an example:
  • At 60 Hz the motor speed is 1750 RPM and the full load output power is 2 HP.
    
  • At 15 Hz the motor speed is 437 RPM and the maximum output mechanical power is ½ HP
  • At 6 Hz the motor speed is 175 RPM and the maximum output mechanical power is 1/5 HP.
  • This illustrates how much it matters if the belt is in the wrong speed range.

EDIT: I should add that the above statement about motor power only holds for 60 Hz and below. Above 60 Hz the inverter operates in constant power mode so you can't get more than 2 HP from the motor by operating over base speed (base speed is the speed at 60 Hz).

 

[John Spitters]

I have an older VL300 with a 2hp motor and have no problem coring a 19” bowl from a 24” blank on the low belt setting (3 step pully)
As to taking heavy cuts, If my tool is sharp no problem what so ever on the middle belt setting.

 

[john lucas]

When I was looking for a new lathe I ruled out the Nova DVR even though I had owned 2 other Nova lathes. The reason was that motor. Years down the line if that company goes bottom up or drops that lathe and the motor dies you will not be able to get a replacement. I've seen a lot of lathe companies come and go over the years so that worries me. On the Powermatic or Vicmarc if the motor dies you simply buy an off brand if you choose. Same with the VFD. There really is nothing on those lathes that can't be replaced with aftermarket pieces or built by a good machinist. I'm not saying the DVR is not a good lathe. It is. It's just not for me because of those reasons.
If your stalling lathes that easily you may not have the belts tight enough. I had 1 1/2" horse motor with an aftermarket VFD on my Nova 3000 lathe and I could hog off as much as I wanted. Of course that lathe had a step pulley with many steps (maybe 6) and I always ran it in the pulley that gave me the best power even though my VFD gave me variable speed.
I've never needed to know the readout on my lathe so for me that's a useless function. The only reason I use it at all is because as a demonstrator people always ask what speed I turn at. I hate to give a somewhat rude answer of, I just use what i need.

 

[robo hippy]

I got way more stalling when using the high speed range than when using the low speed range, especially when coring. That being said, I don't know the speed range of the lathes. One reason I like my AB is that I have the old one with the 3 speed ranges: too slow, too fast, and just right. I am still considering that lathe though. Didn't know about having to use a wrench to adjust speed pulleys... Hmm, maybe some day I will have to build my own lathe.

Odie, interesting comment about bracing your body against the lathe. I used to do that when I had my first lathe, a 4 speed Atlas, but after getting the PM and now AB with the sliding headstock, I never do that. Primary reason is I get better control and body rotation by standing straight up....

robo hippy

 

[Don C Davis]

Odie, I will try and post a few pics later--forewarning, I am an awful photographer...

Yeah Reed, it's really not a big deal on the belt cover, just a PITA, actually I think you could remove the small allen screw and the threaded knob piece would hold that cover plate in place OK--just a pita on both covers having to be removed to get at the belts.

I am turning with the pulley set on the most power--largest pulley at the spindle...I am currently thinking of investigating what would be involved in installing a 3-4 HP Leeson or Baldor motor on this lathe--a little more time and some coring attempts will push me one direction or another.

JeffSmith, I did NOT turn on this specific lathe before buying--yeah I know, a little stupid, but I'm handicapped and getting around is a PITA, so I just went with previous experience and advice. As I've said I have learned to never say never on lathes--and I'm definitely not saying I'm done based on my experience with the Laguna 24-36 and this Vic so far

I honestly wonder if my handicap-no nerve function from Mid-calf down in my legs/ankles/feet is limiting my feel, and I will say I work out quite a bit on upper body--so I have stout arms, and I'm wondering if I put more into roughing than I realize--the fact that I don't stall my benchtop mounted NOVA DVR makes me think that isn't the case--but I'm wondering--I've seen Reed--AKA RoboHippy turn some bowls and he seems to cut deeper than I do when roughing--him and others--so I think I just need to get the proper lathe/set up, and perhaps that's something I need to learn more about, but my NOVA is not even bolted to the bench it sits on, and it only weighs 185 lbs, and I can rough the same material and size blanks on it without stalling it, so....

Will try some pics later, maybe the wife will help!

 

[Don C Davis]

Well here goes my picture attempts.
First one is hollowing at 45 degrees, not 22.5 as I thought earlier

 

[Don C Davis]

I'm having issues with my pics being too large--I will try and figure that out....

 

[Don C Davis]

Here is an overview pic attempt:

 

[Don C Davis]

Trying to get things sized reasonably:
This is the tool rest sleeve they send with the lathe where you can use 1 inch tool post rests.

This is it inserted into the banjo

This is a bowl at 90 degrees

This is a pic of the lower pulley cover

This is the pin you pull an insert to rotate the headstock

 

[Bill Boehme]

Nick Cook is one of the best instructors that you could find anywhere so my assumption is that you have mastered the fundamentals of turning skills. I would like to offer my 2¢ about stalling the lathe. I assume you mean stalling the motor and not the case in which just the spindle where the motor is still running and the belt is squealing. If the belt is slipping I would be cautious about tightening it without first determining the cause because over tightening can lead to more expensive problems. People like Nick Cook, Reed Gray, Al Hockenbery, and Kelly Odell (AKA, Odie) have decades of experience and can use finesse to rapidly rough turn a piece without the need for massive horsepower to brute force their way through the wood. As an exercise in honing your skills try making every cut, from beginning to end, a finishing cut. After a couple dozen bowls if you can smoothly transition the gouge between push and pull cuts I think that you will also find that a very light touch is all that is needed even during rough turning. If you find it necessary to use much force then the gouge is probably dull or maybe the tool is scraping rather than maintaining bevel contact.

If you think that there is something wrong with the lathe, it would be a good idea to get a second opinion from an experienced turner who has turned on many different lathes.

 

[Josh Stevens]

I had one of the earlier models of this lathe and the swivel head is great!
I notice that the headstock locking lever is missing from your photos, the one that screws in under the locating pin. I would be hesitant to turn without that

 

[Don C Davis]

This is the upper pulley cover and shows the small (3mm) allen head socket that has to be removed-and then you unscrew the knob with the black cap

 

[Don C Davis]

Josh, this lathe has no locking lever, and the manual doesn't mention one in my memory--I will double check that straight away!!

Bill, I definitely am not having a belt slipping stall out on either of these lathes I've had this issue on--I agree with you re: Nick Cook, and I can tell you that his roughing cuts are much deeper/stronger/bigger whatever you want to call em than mine. I actually was in a class with him and when bringing a 4x4 piece of stock to round when mounted in a chuck and with the tailstock up-he blew the piece out of the lathe-and took a cut to the head!!! That being said to state that I am definitely not very aggressive when roughing-which is why I'm so surprised that I ever stall a lathe at all-plus as I said I have a NOVA DVR XP and it is not even bolted to the bench it sits on and it only weighs 185 lbs, and I never stall it. The bowls I am roughing are only 10" pieces of stock, and I am roughing/hollowing mainly with an 18mm round carbide tool--which doesn't put a lot of surface are in contact with the wood, I've also frequently used a 3/4" round nose scraper for roughing--with either of these tools I have encountered the issue.Getting another experienced turner to turn on my lathe is a good idea, our Chapter president has over 40 years experience and could likely give me some input. I will pursue that and see what I come up with from that input.
Thanks for your input Bill!

 

[Bill Boehme]

Well here goes my picture attempts.
First one is hollowing at 45 degrees, not 22.5 as I thought earlier

It appears that you have the tool rest too low if that is the actual height that you are using with the Easy Wood tool. The edge should be contacting the wood slightly above center. If used below center there is a very good chance that it will dig into the wood. I think that this could possibly be the reason for the lathe stalling I have a couple Easy Wood tools and have discovered that they get dull a whole lot sooner than advertised. If it takes more than light finger pressure for the tool to start making shavings then the cutter is dull.

I checked the manual and the website and both show a locking lever. Here is where it should go.




BTW, the manual says that the headstock rotation angles are 30°, 60°, and 90°. I'm surprised that you didn't have all sorts of vibration with the headstock not locked.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

I very well known turner from England told me not long ago he use to have a Vicmarc in England and loved it. Recommended it to everyone.

But since they brought they new models out he no longer recommends them for a number of reasons.

 

[Don C Davis]

Josh, senior moment--I totally know what knob you are talking about, I just removed it to take these pics--DOH!! I definitely put it back in before I turn!

 

[Don C Davis]

Bill, thanks for the follow up post man--I had a brain slippage on the locking lever Josh mentioned--I was just not thinking of that in my nomenclature!!
My Easy Wood Carbide tool is just above center when at the center of that piece-but I appreciate the info that I need to be sure I'm not below center, but regardless I am still stalling out with these lathes and not my NOVA, so this leaves me baffalled, and like I have stated several turners who are professionals take bigger roughing cuts than I am--I have also turned on a PM 3520B and had no stalling issues with it, and the last time I turned on one was 3 months ago...as to the carbide tools dulling sooner than expected, what do you recommend--replacing the carbide tip, or lapping it on a diamond sharpener??

 

[Roger Chandler]

Congrats on your Vicmarc, Don! For me personally, I would not want a lathe that was direct drive from the motor like the Nova DVR, for reasons others have mentioned above, and some of my own. I could easily have gotten one over the years if I wanted. Belt drives serve as protection to electronics and motors, and if adjusted correctly, they will give fine results, and smooth operation.

After hearing your issues with that Laguna 2436, I am so glad I made the choice of the Grizzly G0800. I have turned on and stalled a 3hp Robust American beauty. I have stalled my 3 hp G0766, I have stalled 2 hp Powermatics and Jets. I did not stall the Serious SL 2542 I turned on, and to date I have not stalled my G0800. The build on the G0800 is much heavier than the Laguna 2436, and has more and larger bearings on the spindle. It also has a more advanced inverter/motor combo.

I have a friend who has a Oneway 2436 3 hp and he stalls it out with heavy cuts, even when the belt is on the lowest setting for the most torque. I suspect your desire to not be able to stall a lathe with a heavy cut is not centered in reality. [no offense meant, Don, so please do not take any offense at my statement!]

I'm just saying that I suspect that any lathe can be stalled, and if one gets upwards in horsepower the need for proper presentation of tools gets to be more critical, because without stalling, a lathe can hurt you real bad! It can override the leverage you have on a tool, jerk it from your hands, and injure you severely. That stalling feature is a good thing, not a bad thing!

I hope you end up finding your "last lathe" and she makes you happy!

 

[Dean Center]

I honestly wonder if my handicap-no nerve function from Mid-calf down in my legs/ankles/feet is limiting my feel, and I will say I work out quite a bit on upper body--so I have stout arms, and I'm wondering if I put more into roughing than I realize--the fact that I don't stall my benchtop mounted NOVA DVR makes me think that isn't the case--but I'm wondering

Don, here's another theory based on your above observation and some mechanics that others have touched on. Without meaning it critically, I have a suspicion that the problem is not a lack of horse power in the lathe, but something that you do, or don't do, or have set up in a way that creates the issue.

Here's the theory:

• You're stronger in the upper body than many of us
• Very experienced turners use LESS strength than us novices--as we improve our technique, we get better results with a softer touch. The pros can therefore take bigger bites with less force. It's frankly humiliating to watch Glenn Lucas or Stuart Batty turn the outside of a bowl in 3 passes.
• The pros are better sharpeners than we are.
  
• Most professional turners, save our friend Reed, use gouges rather than scrapers such as the Easy Wood Tool or your 3/4" scraper. Nick Cook is one example.
  
• If you fail to apply a scraper with the correct technique, you get a dig (aka catch) that can be pretty violent and it's common for most of us to get the tool knocked out of our hands.

Maybe, you're just strong enough to get away with poor scraper technique and still keep the tool on the wood. If so, you could put quite a bit of reverse force against the wood and motor.​

Why then does it not happen with the Nova or the Powermatic? Possibly the direct drive and somebody else's set up of the motor-belt-spindle deliver more drive power than your set up of the Laguna and Vicmarc motor-belt-spindle, and can overcome your ability to put increased resistance into the wood.

It's just a theory. Maybe you could spend 20 minutes with Nick and ask him to check this issue out for you.

 

[odie]

I very well known turner from England told me not long ago he use to have a Vicmarc in England and loved it. Recommended it to everyone.

But since they brought they new models out he no longer recommends them for a number of reasons.

I'm curious as to what those reasons might be, Glenn.....

 

[William Rogers]

Don, When I first started turning bowl I bought an inexpensive set of bowl gouges. Well without being in a club or knowing anyone I tried to use them (I was really a novice at the time) and actually bent the 1/2" gouge. I went with the carbide as it was something that I could make work. However they do get dull. Years later after joining a club, I had a member show me the proper way to use a bowl gouge. IMO a sharp bowl gouge is much better than carbide. Some really like carbide, but after learning how to use a bowl gouge I won't ever use carbide again. I do use scrapers to tweak a bowl shape, but not for roughing. I would suggest that you consider using a bowl gouge and instructions from a club member. It only took me about 40 minutes of instruction to get started.

 

[hockenbery]

My Easy Wood Carbide tool is just above center when at the center of that piece-but I appreciate the info that I need to be sure I'm not below center, but regardless I am still stalling out with these lathes and not my NOVA, so this leaves me baffalled, and like I have stated several turners who are professionals take bigger roughing cuts than I am--I have also turned on a PM 3520B and had no stalling issues with it

When I demo I frequently have to adjust my feed rate to work with the lathe in front of me.
All lathes slow down a little bit when you cut. Ron Gerton’s turning with strobe demos show this quite clearly and he stresses the need To use a strobe that dynamically adjusts to a timing marker.

Lathe height as well as tool rest height are particularly important when using a scraper. Different lathe heights could be the a contributing factor.
In any event over time you will develop a feel for the correct feed rate and adjust accordingly.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

I'm curious as to what those reasons might be, Glenn.....

He mentioned he would not recommend or get one again. He was demoing on an old Vicmarc, and a student asked if he would recommend a good lathe. Said he always turned on an old Vicmarc like the one he was demoing on. Then moved to the USA. He said the new ones , castings where weaker among other things, for the money they charge. I will get specifics off him when he is back from courses.

 

[Gary Beasley]

Congrats on your Vicmarc, Don! For me personally, I would not want a lathe that was direct drive from the motor like the Nova DVR, for reasons others have mentioned above, and some of my own. I could easily have gotten one over the years if I wanted. Belt drives serve as protection to electronics and motors, and if adjusted correctly, they will give fine results, and smooth operation.
!

Nova DVRs will stall too, and if overloaded will simply shut off. I’ve managed that a few times, and you can just turn it back on after you recover your wits and go on turning. The only other uncomfortable thing is its habit of speeding up after a hard catch as it tries to overcome the sudden speed reduction. You just have to step back and let it settle down. Other than that it seems pretty well behaved.

 

[Don C Davis]

I truly appreciate the input folks, you have given me some things to think over. I am not certain what height the new lathe is at, just going by feel it seems like it's pretty similar to my NOVA, but I will consider that. As to tool sharpness, that is not an issue for me, I am knife-maker as well as a woodturner and I use CBN wheels, a belt sander (have 4) and strops on my tools, on my carbide tools I am in the habit of simply changing the tips if I feel it has dulled at all, I do run the new tips over a waterstone just to be sure they are shaving sharp to start. Actually in my first lesson with Nick Cook, he told me he advised students to have their skew shaving sharp, but that mine was the first one he had seem that actually was! I will definitely consider getting a meeting/lesson from Nick Cook, I've been thinking about hooking up with him for just general follow up and staying in touch anyway.

Just for the record, I have had the same issue with a bowl gouge, a Carter & Sons 1/2" and a 5/8" one. I know that Nick hollows with a gouge, and he (like most pros IMO) is not a fan of carbide tools--he only uses them for specific tasks--very infrequently. I don't know if it's relevant at all, but almost all the wood I'm working with is green--IMO really dry wood is tougher to turn though, and I think it would exacerbate things if any at all.

Odie, I spoke to Marco, a principal at Vicmarc, and he said that the folks that say they've changed their castings are incorrect, the only issue he said they possibly had in his opinion COULD be the motors for USA--he said that upgrading the 240 Lathe which I bought to a 3 HP he had done once, and he had issues sourcing a motor that fit that lathe and he could only obtain a 3 HP from China, and he wasn't really happy with the quality of it. They are using the same castings they have all along BTW.

Gary, I have NEVER stalled my DVR, which continues to be a factor in me being baffled by this issue in general...I know this sounds silly, especially since the Vicmarc I went with is only 2 HP, but NOVA only having 2 HP is one of the reasons I didn't consider them for this purchase, but also I don't like their leg/stand options, but I don't have an issue with the possible long lived-ness of their direct drive motor, I actually am a fan of mfgs. going in a new direction and designing what they feel is better mousetrap, so I am a fan of the DVR motor. I wish they would do a 3 HP version with a 20" plus swing.

I really appreciate the input folks, and if anyone has any further questions or input I am wide open for them!

 

[William Rogers]

Just for the record, I have had the same issue with a bowl gouge, a Carter & Sons 1/2" and a 5/8" one. I know that Nick hollows with a gouge, and he (like most pros IMO) is not a fan of carbide tools--he only uses them for specific tasks--very infrequently. I don't know if it's relevant at all, but almost all the wood I'm working with is green--IMO really dry wood is tougher to turn though, and I think it would exacerbate things if any at all.

I was under the incorrect assumption you wasn't comfortable with bowl gouges, but from the statement above you just prefer carbide. The only suggestion is if you can get one of your experienced club member to come over for a first hand look. That lathe should be a joy to use.

 

[Don C Davis]

Thanks William, I probably am not as thorough in explaining my background as I should be.

I just got off the phone with Nick Cook and I have a lesson/meeting scheduled with him for Oct 23--his first available time!!! I'm sure he will scold me for not having bought a Powermatic!

 

[Gary Beasley]

Have you had any time with Mark Sillay? Hes really good with gouges and teaches “wood slicing” technique. I spent some time with him, really amazing what he can do.

 

[Don C Davis]

Gary, I am not familiar with Mark Sillay--I am heading to the woodturning symposium in Dalton--maybe he'll be there??

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Don Mark has a very reasonable rate and he says he and Nick are the only two production turners left. He has some very interesting and effective approaches.

 

[Bill Boehme]

he says he and Nick are the only two production turners left

Maybe he forgot about Mike Mahoney.

 

[robo hippy]

Hmm.... Well for stalling lathes, I haven't met one I can't stall yet and that includes the DVR and a 1 inch wide Big Ugly tool.

Not sure if you can step up to a 4 hp motor because the motor size and weight takes a big jump after 3 hp. If the mounting bracket holes are the same, you probably could do it. I did hear about one Vicmarc lathe that had a 5 hp motor, and saw pictures even. Huge motor.

I think Mike has retired from production bowl turning. Glenn Lucas has not. Scrapers have their place, though not as much as a finish tool. Those that discredit them don't know how to use them the way that I do. For roughing cuts, they can't be beat by any one with any gouge or any lathe. A carbide tipped tool no because the tip is too small, but a 1 inch Big Ugly is another level or 3 up from that. I don't do production work any more, but could finish turn a 3 by 10 inch bowl in under 5 minutes. If you viewed my Scary Scrapers video a few months ago, you can tell...

robo hippy