natural edge rescue?

[herb]

Hi,

Natural edge bowls are really nice, unless all the bark comes off. Is there a way to rescue or compensate for this or did I just create firewood?

Herb

 

[Max Taylor]

natural edge rescue

No. Just clean all the bark off, then get a small tipped torch and burn the edge where the bark was. wire brush lightly and apply your favorite finish. What I would do, Max.

 

[Mike Vickery]

I use a pyrography pen and burn a stiple pattern with the ball tip on the rim when I loose the bark.

example
http://www.distinctiveturnings.com/...on=com_easygallery&act=photos&cid=4&Itemid=40

http://www.distinctiveturnings.com/...n=com_easygallery&act=photos&cid=71&Itemid=40

In my opinion if the rim has a lot of the pointy spikes it looks good without doing anything to it, just leave it natural. Usually it is burls that I see it on though.

 

[Steve Worcester]

depends on the species. If it was a thick (deep?) bark, then loosing it could really throw off the "balance" and form of the piece. If it was a thin bark, then it may be no big deal.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Dribble some CA glue into the cambium and bark before turning. Wipe with a paper towel. Stop turning and repeat periodically as you work to the final shape. Works like a charm.

Joe

 

[KurtB]

NE Items

Herb,
Just a different point of view: many pieces done with a natural edge don't have bark. They are still natural edge with the waviness or undulations in the rim. You may even find that the unbarked edge without burning blends better with the colors of the specific piece better than the burnt edge. You can always burn it after if you don't like it! That said, try the CA method to keep the bark on, it works, but don't throw the bowl away because you lose some!
Good Luck!

 

[hockenbery]

Hi Herb,

I often use woods with a with a pronounced sap ring like cherry or walnut.
these look great even without the bark. If you are into embellishment a carved pattern piercing in the sap ring makes an attractive border.

Also some woods like walnut don't seem to be attached tot heir bark while others like Holly hold the bark really well.

some woods like locust have a sap ring and terrific thick bark that looks spectacular.

I find that CA is essential to harden the bark to minimize its shrinkage. without CA the bark will shrink more than the wood ans make an uneven surface that I dislike.
CA lets the bark take a bit of sanding.

I generally sand the wood wood only up to 220 then sand the bark with 320 to blend it into the wood. I do all my sanding off the lathe.

happy turning,
Al

 

[waltben]

I've found green (wet) wood keeps its bark best and also use CA as others have said. Cherry bark has great texture and also stays on better for me. I've not had problems with black walnut, but don't know about other sub-species. Pecan and hickory works while green, but I've had difficulties when it's dry.

 

[Jerry Hall]

You have gotten great advice but

if you still lose some bark at the end, or during drying, or if a void appears under the bark I have had good luck by:
- saving bark scraps and piecing a bit in, carving and fitting with a scalpel shaped exacto knife
- using coffee grounds, or walnut sanding dust to carefully fill voids and repair cracks
- dark brown and black Sharpie pens to further mask the repair
- or a little burning, but this has been my least favored option

Works for me, and often I can't easily find my mistakes a week or so later.

I still hold firmly to the maxim that the mark of a great turner is how well he can repair and hide his screwups :cool2: