Need advice: Double ended scraper handle

[Aron Fast]

I purchased a steel blank 10mm x 20 mm x 200 mm.

I plan to grind a scraper on one end to be a square and on the other end to have a profile for the left side bowl.

I was just thinking about making a wooden handle with two pins that register and could be removed and the scraper turned around.

Then I ran across this:

Double Ended Negative Rake Scraper and Handle Package — Ashley Harwood Woodturning - Turning Native LLC

Available now! This is my new, patent pending negative rake scraper system. The double ended scraper provides two different profiles, and the magnetic handle makes it easy to switch between blades with no set screws or allen keys required. And don’t worry, the magnets don’t touch the blade, so the

www.ashleyharwood.com

A magnetic catch for a scraper handle.

Does anyone have experience or tips for making a handle for a reversible scraper?

 

[Asher Langton]

Have you seen John Jordan’s shear scraper?

Shear Scraper

Instructions for Use: Use the tool with the edge at 45 degrees to the wood in a pulling motion. This will allow you to make subtle changes to the shape, and leaves a very smooth surface that...

www.johnjordanwoodturning.com

 

[Michael Brown]

I was thinking of making one for my m42 parting tool scraper thing I made a short while back. I think a strong neodymium magnet inside to make contact should be plenty. So far I don't have a handle for mine yet but I use it heavily for touching up. I am not typically holding the end so none of my body is near the unused business end. Ymmv

 

[Larry Copas]

Got the idea from John Jordan.



The handle is made from ABS plastic. It's tough as nails and can be machined similar to metal. Also easy to glue. It's available on eBay in various thickness. Cost for pieces 12" square and smaller is usually less than $10 delivered to your door.

The blade is a re-purposed HSS knife cutting blade from a newspaper company. That's the reason for the holes in the blade.

 

[Dave Landers]

I made a couple handles for similar sized steel blanks. Two halves of scrap wood with a channel routed down the middle for the steel. Before I glued the two halves together, I glued a nut into one side (under a hole) for a set screw. Then glued the halves together and turned the handle.
I made the handles a little longer than the steel so I could burry the tool in the handle for traveling.
But I often use the tools without the handle.

 

[John K Jordan]

I plan to grind a scraper on one end to be a square and on the other end to have a profile for the left side bowl.

I was just thinking about making a wooden handle with two pins that register and could be removed and the scraper turned around.

Aron, I haven't made such a handle. However, found I didn't need handles on nearly all of my scrapers since I use them very gently on the wood, especially negative rake scrapers which I use almost exclusively. Conventional scrapers used more aggressively, of course, will need a good handle, especially if used for shaping wood rather than for surface smoothing.

Will yours be NRS?

When I sharpen both ends, if needed I'll put some type of rubber protector on one end.

For example, I ground two of these NRS from Thompson scraper stock and one from a skew chisel. I use them without handles. I do slip a piece of rubber tubing on the narrow (tang) end, but when using the narrow end I don't bother protecting the other end since the wide steel works nicely as a handle (and again, these are used with a delicate touch just for final smoothing).



Those in the picture below are also ground as NRS. Since the first two on the left are long enough to hold safely in the middle, I have never protected the far end. (The first is ground from a 1/2" Thompson scraper, the second from a shallow spindle gouge.) Again, gentle use only, on surfaces already cut smooth with finishing cuts with another tool. Neither end has a sharp point like a skew which makes a difference. (A good sharp NRS with a nice burnished burr can be easily held on the rest with just the fingertips for gentle smoothing.) I've never gotten as much as a scratch with any of these and I've used them extensively for years. The far ends would be easy enough to protect if concerned.



I have at least a dozen small NRS scrapers ground to different profiles, most double-ended.

Note that I ALWAYS us the J Jordan double-ended scraper with his handle since both ends have a wicked sharp point! As someone pointed out, the handle design also protects the edges for storage or travel. However, I still prefer a negative rake design and will probably regrind this someday unless I just give it to someone.


JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

I generally don't use double ended scrapers. I do like the handles from D Way work though. They do use one knurled handled knob to tighten them and for a NRS, that is sufficient. Others do use a double set screw which is how I would do it if I was using a standard scraper. For most of those that I use, I prefer them in a wood handle and not removable.

robo hippy

 

[JeffSmith]

I’m generally using NR scrapers to refine a shape - pretty light duty. Been using the two-ended scrapers from D-Way/BoxMaster for a while now. I don’t even bother with a handle. Works just fine and allows good control of shear angles.

 

[Jamie Straw]

I purchased a steel blank 10mm x 20 mm x 200 mm.

I plan to grind a scraper on one end to be a square and on the other end to have a profile for the left side bowl.

If you mean the left side of the interior of the bowl, I'd be a little nervous using it unless it's ground with a negative rake. Yes, I've used neutral rake, but they're not so user friendly. Also, I think I'd find a flat blade and handle rather awkward while moving the inside of a bowl.