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Need to KILL black locust trees

Matt Meadows

Matt Meadows

Joined
May 13, 2005
Messages
172
Likes
111
Location
Charleston SC
I have a bounty of free black locust at my sister's house (3 hrs away, though). I have cut down 4 of them (most used as firewood, some for turning) and have 3 to go of the biggest.

Problem is, they shoot runners all over the place. Once I cut the main tree down, the battle's only begun. It's on a part of the property that isn't mowed often (not needed, especially since they can't keep a lawnmower running). Is there any way to kill the root system without dumping tons in expense?

BTW, free black locust in the Charlotte, NC area!
redfishsc@hotmail.com
 
yes

There are several stump/root-killing herbicides on the market. You make a fresh cut and then flood the stuff on. I've been told that you can also slant drill holes in from the edge of the stump (6 or 8 by 1/2" by 12" deep) for better penetration then fill the holes with rock salt. Apply fresh herbicide in 1 and 2 months.

Try Agway or Tractor Supply.

M
 
Something that has worked for me in the past is; With the chain saw cut all around the tree, at a convenient height. Cut just a little deeper then the sapwood. Should kill the tree and stump in a season. Haven't tried it on locust.
 
Hmm, those may work on standing trees but the main problem is killing the root and the runners--- it sends out very fast growing runners that quickly become 10-ft thorn-infested demons.

The main trunk is a breeze--- 14" Poulan Pro chainsaw makes quick work of the main tree, it's just that I know as soon as I cut them down it's going to shoot runners all over the yard, the ones I cut down a couple months ago already have.


BTW, anyone got any pics of some nice turnings from locust? Personally I love it, sapwood looks like Ash but the heartwood is also cool, kinda like red oak. Doesn't seem to check as bad when drying as oak.
 
When I cut down a boxelder the result is many new trees. However if I girdle the tree and wait for it to die the stump, root and all die. Try it. Let me know , next year if it worked. We have aspen trees localy that send up many shoots. I have not had a need to try girling on them.
 
Aspens in particular are a funny tree. If they are true aspens, and not elms, they are a colonial organism and a grove actually consists of only one tree with many trunks. Wouldn't expect girdling to affect this. Also wouldn't expect girdling to affect runners, as heartwood is not living and girdling should seem to the tree no different than cutting it off (if I'm wrong here, would be interested in learning why).

The herbicides that you spread on the freshly cut stump would be what I'd recommend too. They're designed to move through the cambium all the way to the roots and shoots and kill em all.

The other option is burning down everything in the area and salting the earth, which I've heard is good for leaving death and desolation for at least 7 generations.

Good luck,
Dietrich
 
Lol, Dietrich, we salted our driveway once. It was all gravel we'd put over green grass on newly developed property, and weeds kept popping up through the gravel. Got 4 50lb bags of "water softener salt" (ie, plain old salt) and spread it out. I kid you not, 15 years later, there is NO grass anywhere in that area, worked great!
 
Try Round-Up

I've only done this a couple of times, but it has always worked. Drill holes down into the stump near the edge and fill them with full-strength (concentrated) Round-Up. (Round-Up advertises that it kills the plant by killing the plant's roots.)
 
We have the same type of problems here on the farm with many varieties including locust and sweet gum. Our solution (both cheapest and easiest) is to for me to cut the trees when clearing land and my wife follows me with a pump up spayer full of undiluted 2,4 D-amine based herbicide. She then floods and soaks the freshly cut stump with this straight out of the bottle herbicide and it kills the stump and roots. This herbicide is sold under a number of names but look for the active incredient of 2,4 D-amine in a concentrated product - a farm supply store should be able to fill your needs. It sells around $40 for 2.5 gallons around here at our farm stores. Do read the label and use rubber gloves, etc.!

If you have some stumps that are already sprouting, just recut the top off of that stump and cut off the shoots it has produced and soak all with the 2,4-D.

Wilford
 
I bought some stump killer at a hardware store a couple years ago. It was supposed to cause the stump to die and decay organically (whatever that meant). The instructions on the container said to drill several one inch diameter holes in the top of the stump and some slant holes in the side and then put this material in the holes and then keep the holes filled with water for six weeks. After that, let the holes dry out and then fill the holes with kerosene and set the stump on fire. I swear that is what it said. Why couldn't I just go straight to the last step and save about $10. However, I couldn't do the last step anyway because I live in the middle of a city and outdoor burning is not allowed except for a cookout. Smores over a kerosene fire don't taste any good.

Bill
 
Summer of Ice Cream

My grandmother wanted to kill an over hanging mamosia tree. Long before I became a woodwurner. We had homemade ice cream all summer and you can guess where the ice cream freezer's salty water ended up every time.
 
Locust trees

I've killed a few Black Locust tree on my place with out resorting to chemicals. Once I cut the tree down it sprouts up all over the place, I go out a few times a summer and either mow them or cut them off with a lopper. It may take a couple of years but eventually you'll starve the roots. I know its not quick or easy but its clean..good luck
M
 
Used Motor Oil

Used motor oil WILL kill just about anything :eek:
Thats how I removed the neighbors cat........(just joking)
 
BAD Advice - used motor oil does not break down

Used motor oil is a very poor substitute for the proper chemicals. Motor oil does not readily break down. It typically percolates thru the soil and gets mixed in with underground water. Or it gets washed by rainwater into ponds, streams, or lakes. One pint of oil can form a slick as big as a football field.

Improperly disposed motor oil can become part of the groundwater table and will then get pumped up into either the municipal water supply or someone's private well water supply.

Most if not all states have laws against dumping motor oil onto the ground or into the sewage system. Examples follow:

Washington state

Iowa Dept of Natural Resources brochure

Minnesota brochure - illegal to dump oil

California info from San Bernadino
 
I've debated on whether to get back involved in this post or not and with the latest suggestions feel like I should. My previous recommendation to use 2,4-D Amine is an approved "cut application" and "basal stump" application for the product. USDA Forestry has a full fact sheet showing this usage at http://infoventures.com/e-hlth/pestcide/24d.html Modern 2,4-D Amine is one of the herbicides that is broken down to harmless products by microbes in the soil and is used extensively in farming for weed control.

As to the comments on Agent Orange - chemists and doctors with more training in these products than I received in college have determined the Dioxin byproduct contamination in the 2,4,5-T product was the actual problem agent. There is still scientific debate as to the harm actually done by Agent Orange and that is another case where we did not support our Vietnam Vets no matter the cause of their health problems.

Herbicides are like a lot of other products we as woodturners use that have hazards and should be handled with care. Always read the labels and follow the instructions given there - as with our woodturning - eye protection, rubber gloves and showers after using should be standard practices! Your local farm supply stores and county extension agent can also give you advice on "cut application" of herbicides and control of unwanted plants.

Wilford
 
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Unfortunately everyone associates 2,4,D with 2,4,5-T and the insecticide DDT. Generally, 2,4,D is broken down within 2-3 weeks by microbial action, unless you dump a gallon on the tree at once. I have used it to kill tree roots from the mid 60's on.
Usual treatment is to drill 1/2" holes 2" deep every 2-3 inches around the edges of the stump leaving about 1/4" of wood to the bark. Then dribble a fairly concentrated solution into the holes. Cover with weighted down plastic sheeting to keep animals away. Repeat every 7-10 days for 1-3 months depending on the size of the stump and the type of tree. Hardwoods take longer than softwoods. There is no need to treat the center of the stump, just the edges.

JimQ

BTW, It is against Federal law to dump oil on the ground.
 
Don't mess with Agent Orange products!

I came home from Nam with a condition diagnosed as sun poisoning, and to this day I have to wear sunscreen, hats, long sleeves,etc. or else I break out like a teenager. Before my trip to tropical paradise with the 101st Airborne I would tan like a native, and people thought it was normal for a photographer to be sensitive to sunlight!
 
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