New bandsaw blade twists

[RascalRobot]

My wife bought me a 9" table top bandsaw for Christmas. I followed the instructions ( I believe ) to correctly tension the blade and adjust the guides. However, when I try to cut anything other than cheap pine, the blade twists and starts cutting at an angle. Last night I wanted to simply cut a pen blank in half and had to make 4 cuts, one from each side.

Is there a tutorial, or web site, somewhere on the net that has detailed information on setting up and using bandsaws ?

 

[pencheff]

My wife bought me a 9" table top bandsaw for Christmas. I followed the instructions ( I believe ) to correctly tension the blade and adjust the guides. However, when I try to cut anything other than cheap pine, the blade twists and starts cutting at an angle. Last night I wanted to simply cut a pen blank in half and had to make 4 cuts, one from each side.

Is there a tutorial, or web site, somewhere on the net that has detailed information on setting up and using bandsaws ?

Correct blade tension is only part of the setup. You also need to have the upper and lower blade guides set correctly and the blade has to be tracking down the center of the tires.

Here's a link to a page that explains all the steps on setting up a bandsaw.

 

[Jonathon.C]

I have heard that the tensioning doohickey isn't very precise on most bandsaws... they say if you can push your bandsaw blade to the side with your finger more than 1/4" than the blade needs to be tensioned more.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Jonathon - most of the people that claim that the tensioning on most bandsaws isn't very precise are either trying to sell you something that you don't need or repeating what they heard someone else say (usually someone trying to sell them something they didn't need). Unless it's a very cheap bandsaw, the manufacturers tensioning gauge is probably fine.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but make sure you have the blade installed correctly. I've seen people get their blade twisted and the teeth are backwards (pointing up rather than down). It'll cut, but really really bad. Kind of like what you described.

You shouldn't have to put much pressure on to cut. The harder you press to cut, the greater chance of blade deflection. If you have to press really hard, something isn't set up right.

What brand / model bandsaw?

What size blade are you using (width, tpi, metal type).

Look at where the blade is riding on the wheels. Is it centered on the wheels or is riding towards the front / back?

What kind of guides do you have?

Got any pictures showing your setup?

The more information you can provide the more likely someone might be able to figure out what's wrong.

Any decent bandsaw should cut through pen blanks like butter.



Ed

 

[Bill Boehme]

My guess is that the blade was turned wrong-side-out so that when you installed it, the teeth were pointing up rather than down.

Bill

 

[laymarcrafts]

Their is a wealth of Information on Bandsaw Set Up and Trouble Shooting on the Net.

I have listed many of these on the Links Page of my Web Site, Under "Bandsaws" I'm sure you will find the solution to your problem somewhere there.

http:/www.laymar-crafts.co.uk

Richard

 

[RascalRobot]

Thank you for the responses. It is a Ryobi 9" tabletop. I know it is probably the cheapest one, but since I am only making small cuts I thought it would be fine. I will check the direction of the teeth tonight. The blade came pre-installed, so I assumed it was on correctly. The blade is definately centered on the wheels. The guides are simply 1/8" square steel bars about 1/2" long held in place by a set-screw. I used a playing card to set the gap on each side. There is a 1/4" diameter guide wheel on a bearing behind the blade, but the blade doesn't touch it. I have no idea what purpose it serves.

If I can't figure it out tonight, I'll take some pictures and post them tomorrow.

Thanks again for the suggestions and the links.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

The one behind the blade is the thrust bearing. It is supposed to stop the blade from being pushed backwards out of the guides (or where the teeth can hit the guides) if you push too hard.

Ed

 

[jimbob91577]

I have the same "Cheap" bandsaw, however it has served most of my purposes for the last few of years.

It doesn't cut quite the thickness that I sometimes want it to, and the blade wanders quite a bit, even with everything adjusted correctly. I guess that is to be expected though given the size of the blades and the size of the machine.

I can't say I have had the same problems you seem to be experiencing although when the blade gets dull it tends to bind easily. I have replaced the blade in my machine twice now (I don't use it frequently) and clean it out every other month or so just to make sure everything is in working order.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The thickness of a playing card is too thick for the spacing -- it should be more like the thickness of a thin sheet of paper. Same goes for the thrust bearing spacing. Do you have the blade set so that the teeth and gullets are clear of the guide blocks at all times? If the sides of the teeth are allowed to contact the guide blocks, the set and sharpness will be ruined and the blade will need to be replaced. I recommend getting rid of the steel guide blocks and replacing them with Cool Blocks -- this will allow you to set them with zero clearance around the blade.

When you are cutting a piece of wood, the upper guide should be set sot that there is only 1/4" clearance above the wood.

Bill

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

One other thought. There are guides and a thrust bearing below the table that need to be set as well. You probably already knew that, but I thought I might just mention it.

Ed

 

[Jonathon.C]

Jonathon - most of the people that claim that the tensioning on most bandsaws isn't very precise are either trying to sell you something that you don't need or repeating what they heard someone else say (usually someone trying to sell them something they didn't need). Unless it's a very cheap bandsaw, the manufacturers tensioning gauge is probably fine.

IDK... the two places that I read that were the FW magazine and I believe Woodsmith. I think recently FW had an article on fine tuning the BS and common problems that occur. I'll have to look it up... I am out of town right now so I don't have access to the magazine.

 

[Griesbach]

The current issue of Woodworkers Journal has an article regarding bandsaw blade tensioning that shows that the factory installed tensioning system and spring are as good as any after market system they tested.

 

[John Nicholas]

Blade cutting at an angle

My wife bought me a 9" table top bandsaw for Christmas. I followed the instructions ( I believe ) to correctly tension the blade and adjust the guides. However, when I try to cut anything other than cheap pine, the blade twists and starts cutting at an angle.

Define angle.

If you have a 1/4 or 1/2 inch scrap. Draw a line and try to cut the line. Can you do that? Does the blade move off the line somewhat predictibly? Does the cut veer sharply from the line, or does it move slowly away?

Try a cut in a 3/4 inch (or thicker is better) hard wood scrap. Does the cut run straight, top to bottom? Does it look like a " ) "?

I agree that the blade tension is not what I would look at first. I wouldn't replace any thing yet. 1st thing to look at replacing would be the blade, if needed. Then go timberwolf. www.suffolkmachinery.com

John

 

[RascalRobot]

Thank you all, it's working now. I followed the link from Pencheff and followed those instructions. As jimbob91577 says, it doesn't cut thick stock as I'd like it to, but I have a table saw for that. I think the guides are the worst design I have ever seen. I will definately look for some kind of replacement guides, like the "cool guides" that boehme recommended.

Once again, thank you for the help, it has saved me days of cussing at my new christmas present.

 

[john lucas]

Check out the latest popular woodworking, they have a great article about bandsaw blade tension and some of the myths that go along with it.
I would also use a thinner gap between the guide blocks, I use a dollar bill folded around the blade. I don't really think the guide blocks are the problems. With a properly tensioned(sharp) blade and the right feed pressure the guide blocks do very little.
Loosen up the tenion until the blade flutters and then gradually add tension until it quits. Then feed a scrap piece through and watch the blade. You might have to add alittle more tension to get the blade to cut well. Adding too much tension on less expensive saws simple pulls the wheels out of alignment and causes a similar problem as too little tension.
I had a 16" Delta 3 wheel bandsaw that never would cut a straight line. I tried all the tricks. I got a tiawanese 14" cheapy and immediately got better cuts. Now I have a 14" Delta and improved the cut quality even more.
It could simply be a dull blade although you would think a new blade would be at least acceptably sharp.

 

[pencheff]

Thank you all, it's working now. I followed the link from Pencheff and followed those instructions. As jimbob91577 says, it doesn't cut thick stock as I'd like it to, but I have a table saw for that. I think the guides are the worst design I have ever seen. I will definately look for some kind of replacement guides, like the "cool guides" that boehme recommended.

Once again, thank you for the help, it has saved me days of cussing at my new christmas present.

Glad to help. One more thing, the stock blade that comes with most bandsaws is junk. I'd suggest you buy a replacement blade before swapping out any other parts.

 

[turner9424]

I have a Ryobi 9" tabletop too. Had simular problem - a new blade Ryobi (Scroll / Fine) solved the problem.

 

[RascalRobot]

Problem solved

Just in case anybody finds this post when doing a search ...
I bought 2 new Olson blades and the cool guides from Sloan Woodshop. The bandsaw now cuts through 3" hardwood like butter. Once again thank you to all who gave me advice.

 

[Paul Engle]

A fence for the saw may help, getting the blade to run straight is tricky sometimes the more you fiddle with it the more you can what is happening , try the fence as there are a couple way to do . full length runs the length of the table or a spot fence set just at the blade. see the link for more info.

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/kregbandsawfence.htm

I dont have anything to gain $ wise , it is just a good place to read all about fences...