New hollow form...finally

[John Torchick]

I started this yesterday and the journey was a learning experience, to say the least. I was only able to turn to 1-3/4 inches as I started to get chatter with the piece. I had drilled a 1/4 inch hole to get started but had to stop and leave a drill bit dimple in the bottom; next time only drill much shallower. I have a round nose scraper, half round scraper with the side bevel, Viceroy #1 and square end scraper with side bevel for smoothing the sides. Got it sanded and applied a coat of DIY friction polish. This piece will go on the sofa table in the living room as a display. Will show a photo when dry. I think it is Bradford pear.

 

[John Torchick]

Dimensions: 3-1/8 H x 2-3/8 base x 1-7/8 top. Hollowing bit as Forstner bit?

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

Not clear what you are trying to do. Hollow the form?

 

[Tom Rice]

Pictures are helpful,
Just sayin is all

 

[John Torchick]

Pictures are helpful,
Just sayin is all

Here it is.

 

[Curt Fuller]

Here it is. View attachment 86542

The lexicon of woodturning can be as confusing and varying as any part of woodturning. But you got it hollowed and it looks good. You're on you way.

 

[hughie]

Here it is. View attachment 86542

should be a piece of cake, maybe vary the speed, light speed is not always good if you're starting out of this hollowing thing.

 

[John Torchick]

Photo isn't good but base was slightly bigger than the top.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

A couple classes and a mentor helped me when I started. Just sayin’ . . .

 

[John Torchick]

Reviewing: 1-3/4 was the depth of the piece.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Yeah, that’s a cup/pencil holder vs a hf, but what the heck, good for a 1st attempt. Chatter - did you keep the cutting edge above center? Full bar scrapers can be troublesome at much depth, tending the get too much edge engaged - with lathe off, move the handle around, twist the handle (for a shear cut), etc to observe how much edge can quickly get into the cut.

A forstner bit ~ 1/2” smaller than final dim can hog things out quickly, if wanting a curved bottom be careful with depth.

Small cutters are best for hollowing (I use 3/16” hss square bar, 6 mm cupped carbide, 8.9mm flat top carbide tips mounted on various dia mild steel bars. Less edge to get into the cut, easier to control.

Scrapers and scraper tips are good for smoothing/finishing the surface, not the actual hollowing.

 

[John K Jordan]

Holding with a good chuck? Dry wood?
Some things I can think of about chatter:
Can be related to lathe speed, the tool and too size, heavy shaft, sharpness, position of the tool rest and firmness of pressure on the rest, the right tool rest for the job, tool presentation, the force and depth of cut (lighter is usually better(, and type and variations in the wood, wall thickness, flexibility (some thin sections can use support outside with the hand.)

I hog out wood with different tools than smoothing. Hard to beat a the right Hunter tool for such projects.
I tend to cut at high speed and smooth/shear scrape at slower.

If possible, even a short a session with a mentor might do wonders.