New lathe...DVR XP or 3520B???

[Dario]

Doing this for a friend...

Given just the two (Nova DVR XP or PM 3520B) choices for a new lathe which one is better?

He claims that cost for him is almost identical so it is a no issue.

Owning a PM 3520B, I of course voted for it but I may be biased since I never tried turning on Nova DVR XP.

I am more interested on opinions of people who atleast tried both.

Thank you,

 

[Brodie Brickey]

DVR XP or 3520B

I made a similar choice between the DVR and 3520A. I chose the 3520A for a couple reasons:

1. 3520 has more mass.
2. 3520 has a larger swing.
3. 3520 has a 3 HP motor.
4. 3520 comes with its own legs. (not a separate purchase).
5. I didn't need an extra outboard turning post to turn stuff larger than 16". I'm not sure I'll turn larger than that but the costs were about the same.

Reasons to seriously consider a DVR:

1. Footprint size.
2. Getting the lathe into a basement shop.
3. Don't want to run or don't have a 220v line in the shop. (running this line can get expensive if you can't do it all yourself.)
4. Don't have a bigger is better complex and a desire to turn pieces above 16" in diameter.

3520A Purchase issues:

I purchased through Amazon and got the free shipping which made it only $50 more than the regular DVR + outboard turning post + tax without legs.

The 3520A is not completely crated and is instead on a pallet with doubled cardboard around it. Due to the location of the controller it is very easy to get damage while in shipping as happened to me. Powermatic was good at getting a replacement to me through Amazon, but it still took time (about 2 weeks).

If the 3520 is shipped to you, note ANY damage to the box on the Bill of Lading to ensure that it is easy for you to make a claim in the event of opening the packaging and finding damage.

I can only offer you comparisons of the previous models, but I think that they are still valid concerns with the newer models. Most of the things that are on the newer 3520B model just make the turning experience a little nicer than the 3520A. Certainly no reason to sell one and buy the other.

I wish your friend the best with his choices. Whichever lathe he gets will be a vast improvement over most anything he might have now.

 

[Dario]

Thanks Brodie,

This is a longer response than I anticipated and is well appreciated.

I am sure this will help him make the choice. His shop is wired for 220 already.

 

[woodwish]

I know people in our club that have both, I've turned on the 3520A but only looked at the DVR. The 3520 (A or B) is a big machine, solid, and good performer. It was what I was going to buy when I ended up with a heck of deal on a Jet 1642 that does all I need right now. I like the solid feel of 3520 but it is not the finish quality of the DVR. The DVR appears to be a higher quality machine in looking it over so I guess this gets to be a quality vs. quanity thing. With all that being said the quality of the 3520 is still excellent in my opinion, without a doubt I would choose the 3520 for my money.

 

[Jeff Schutzman]

DVR or a 3250

A couple of years ago I was making the same choice, they are both great lathes and it is a difficult decision. I chose the DVR (the version before the xp) for the reasons above and because of the smaller footprint, and because I was able to build my own stand. The DVR runs very smooth, and the electronic control gives the lathe operator a lot of flexibility.

The biggest thing I have turned started as an 16" Eucalyptus burl, it was way out of balance. I would guess it started somewhere around 30 pounds? The lathe performed great.

A couple of things I really like about the lathe that aren't often mentioned are the swivel headstock gives access to the inside of bowls and vessels and the bed extensions are easy to add.

A couple of improvements I would like to see are more positive feedback in the electronic control (so you can feel it click when you press the button) and the banjo sometimes doesn't hold on that well when it is fully extended and you are roughing a tough piece of wood.

Also I recall at least one previous debate on exactly this topic, you might want to do a search of prior posts. But in summary, I don't think you can go wrong with either lathe.

 

[Jake Debski]

I made a similar choice between the DVR and 3520A. I chose the 3520A for a couple reasons:

1. 3520 has more mass.
2. 3520 has a larger swing.
3. 3520 has a 3 HP motor.
4. 3520 comes with its own legs. (not a separate purchase).
5. I didn't need an extra outboard turning post to turn stuff larger than 16". I'm not sure I'll turn larger than that but the costs were about the same.

   Don't know about the 3520B but the biggest motor available when purchasing my model A was 2hp.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Swivel Head Stock

I to had narrowed my choices down to the Nova DVR and a 3520a. I turned on both a little bit, as a beginner. A couple things that haven't been mentioned that I would note:
The swiveling headstock on the Nova is nice and much easier than dragging the 3520 headstock to the end of the lathe, and doesn't require extra room at the end of the lathe. You also don't need to remove the tail stock to do outboard turning. The tailstock is a heavy sucker on the 3520 and is often removed. So with the smaller size and useful footprint the Nova is a handier lathe, particularly as one gets older. If for some reason you want it on a bench top, or to build your own stand with storage you might consider that an advantage.

On the other hand, I found the lowest speed to be lower on the 3520 with excellent torque, and the swivel headstock on the DVR to be a bit difficult to fully lock down, with some vibration. I also consider the open iron legs on either to be an advantage for approaching the work and having my feet free to move and be placed anywhere. The DVR is newer technology, that has been continually upgraded. Maybe it is stable now.

I ordered the DVR, but in the end canceled it and got the 3520. I have been very happy with the mass, smooth operation, and great variable speed control of the 3520. I would absolutely recommend it over the Nova unless the unique features that make the Nova handy in some circumstances were critical.

Both companies provide excellent customer service.

 

[Andy Hoyt]

I've turned on both. And I liked the mustard better from the perspective that I could really lean into it and make the curls fly. With the Nova I felt like I was gonna push the thing right over, end for end - 400 pound table and all. I own neither.

 

[John Nicholas]

I made a similar choice between the DVR and 3520A. I chose the 3520A for a couple reasons:

3520 has a 3 HP motor.

The 3520B is only a 2 HP as was the 3520A

John

 

[Brodie Brickey]

Don't know about the 3520B but the biggest motor available when purchasing my model A was 2hp.

You are correct. I mixed up my Jointer horses with the lathes. Sorry about that.

Brodie

 

[john lucas]

I owned a nova 3000 for several years and currently own a powermatic 2035A. I've also spent some quality time with the New Nova. I like the new Nova a lot better than the 3000. They made a lot of good improvements only one of which is the motor. It's a very good lathe.
I'll still take my Powermatic. The difference in weight makes a huge difference when turning off center of large pieces. The other thing I like is that if anything goes wrong I can get it fixed, possibly myself. you can buy a different speed controller because these are pretty common. You can buy a different motor, nothing unusual about the existing one. you can get new bearings, you could even have a good machinist make a new spindle if necessary.
I'm a little leary of lathes with specialized motors like the Nova. If something goes bad and Nova isn't around or no longer carries the parts, what do you do. I've seen too many tool companies go by the wayside over the years so I'm always a little leary.

 

[hockenbery]

The Nova is a good machine. Compared to Powermatic it is a lightweight.
The locking on the tool rest is a lot more positive on the powematic.

The powermatic has a big red button that sticks out for turning it off.

In my opinion any stationary power tool without a big red button is inherently dangeous to operate.

The little touch pad on the Nova is cute but in my opinion a bad feature.
The run up to change speeds is much slower than a dial.

For someone who does mostly spindle work like pepper mill production the Nova might be a better choice since you can get a bit closer to the work.

Happy turning
-Al

 

[john lucas]

Al You bring up a good point. I love my powermatic, it's strong and smooth. What I don't like about it is everything is heavy and you have to wait for it to slow down with it's breaking system.
When I'm doing a production run of hand mirrors or ornaments I go to the Nova Comet. The tool rest is so light it moves extremely easy and fast so making fine adjustments while turning the ornament balls is very quick. Movint the tailstock out of the way after I drill the ornaments is extremely quick on the Nova because it doesn't way anything.
When I need to stop the lathe for inspection of the piece I can stop it almost instantly after it's shut off by grabbing the handwheel. I can stop the lathe look at what I'm doing and start it up and go back to turning faster than the powermatic will stop. Of course that also goes for the Nova DVR as well.
For bigger things the Powermatic is king in my shop. Even for small things that are off center. The mass makes a huge difference. This is also true when comparing the DVR with the Powermatic.

 

[John Nicholas]

PM - Nova

We had a discussion on this issue yesterday at our turning club meeting. Two questions came up.

On the Nova:

1. How does the direct drive handle? If you have a belt drive, the belt can slip. In some situations, that would be helpful. The other side is that the motor would continue to push until a breaker blew.

2. Is the shaft on the Nova solid?

John

 

[Bill Boehme]

We had a discussion on this issue yesterday at our turning club meeting. Two questions came up.

On the Nova:

1. How does the direct drive handle? If you have a belt drive, the belt can slip. In some situations, that would be helpful. The other side is that the motor would continue to push until a breaker blew.

2. Is the shaft on the Nova solid?

John

1. Most all machines of the Powermatic calibre use 10 groove J-section belts (also sometimers called poly-V and Micro-V). I can assure you that these belts will not slip unless the tension is REALLY loose or the belt is so old that it has become hard. The VFD controller on thse variable-speed machines will detect current over the allowed limit and do an automatic shutdown if it is stalled. However, stalling one of these puppies is more of an academic discussion than a reality.
   
   
2. I don't know for certain, but I believe that is what I have read. There could be a problem with greater induced rotor current in a hollow shaft than in a solid one when using a VFD drive. It is enough of a problem in solid shaft motors where bearing arcing leads to shortened bearing life compared to a motor that is connected directly to three-phase sinusoidal AC power.

Bill

 

[Andy Hoyt]

Here's a pic of a friends Nova. My guess is that the shaft (on this model anyway) is hollow.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Here's a pic of a friends Nova. My guess is that the shaft (on this model anyway) is hollow.

Must be a really strong vacuum pump to such air through a solid shaft. Maybe it was the Poolewood that I was thinking of.

Bill

 

[Gordon Seto]

On the Nova:

1. How does the direct drive handle? If you have a belt drive, the belt can slip. In some situations, that would be helpful. The other side is that the motor would continue to push until a breaker blew.

Just the reverse. The safety feature is built-in with the circuitry. When you forget to release the spindle lock and turn on the lathe, nothing will happen.
It is also the safest lathe to learn on coring bowls. When the knife jams, the lathe stops - no twisted knife, flying bowl blanks or break off tenons from chuck. After 3 stops, the lathe would turn off completely. There is a soft / hard mode selection.

Gordon

 

[MichaelMouse]

1. I don't know for certain, but I believe that is what I have read. There could be a problem with greater induced rotor current in a hollow shaft than in a solid one when using a VFD drive. It is enough of a problem in solid shaft motors where bearing arcing leads to shortened bearing life compared to a motor that is connected directly to three-phase sinusoidal AC power.

Bill

I'm not sure that induction is a proper way of thinking. Rather like an anchored boat knifing into the current, paralleling than a barge being buffeted and oscillating . Here's a pretty neat article on the principles. As you can see, the new motors, like the new airplanes, are only possible through computer control. The optical sensor on the DVR is a crunch point. Can't use Hall effect sensors because that rotor isn't magnetic.

http://www.ibiblio.org/obp/electricCircuits/AC/AC_13.html#xtocid250834

For the proponents of "weight" as a criterion, once again, even with the PM the stand is bolted on, so if you have a rigid head/bed, delivered weight is meaningless. Bolt on the whole earth if you care to.