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New turning tool rack

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Nov 2, 2005
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I built a new lathe tool rack for my 1642 that attaches to the leg assembly on the tailstock end for easy access. Works great for spindle work but it can also be removed when I want to slide the headstock and turn the Jet into a shortbed for difficult bowl and hollow work.

It holds 30 tools (yeah, I'm a tool junkie) points down in the top, each isolated in its own PVC tube. It has storage for goofy shaped swan necks and my McNaughton coring system in the bottom. Holds drive and live centers, the knockout bar and other assorted stuff too.

Loosen one knob, slide the bolt down and it comes off the lathe. Will fit either end but being right handed it works best for me on the tailstock end.
 

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Joined
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I like it, but I would prefer the business end of the turning tools sticking up so I could find the one I wanted.
 
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whitefence said:
I like it, but I would prefer the business end of the turning tools sticking up so I could find the one I wanted.

I prefer to give blood under controlled conditions :rolleyes: I have no problem remembering which tool is which.
 
A

aaw17

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whitefence said:
I like it, but I would prefer the business end of the turning tools sticking up so I could find the one I wanted.
Me too, but an alternative is to "sharpee" the end with a code.
Like 1/2" FNG for 1/2" finger nail gouge.
 
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Pretty fancy Greg! Mine are just lumber with various size holes, bolted to BOTH ends of the lathe. Tailstock stuff on that end, turning tools and spindle stuff on the headstock end, some sharp end up (for I.D.), and some sharp end down (I know where they are). Different strokes for different folks.
 
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Very slick. I might just have to copy this for our club lathe....

If the bottoms are open, that must mean the top holes are smaller than the end of the ferules...

And how do you line up the PCV pipes with the holes?
 
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May 4, 2005
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Derby, Kansas, USA
Tool Rack

I'm used to having my tools laid out on a table behind me. That started when I had 2 scrapers, 2 gouges a skew and a parting tool. I'm thinking about a Lazy Susan type arrangement. Circular storage unit. No PVC, but several layers for the tools to fit through. That way you see the business end on the down side, but the sharp end is protected.

John :)
 
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Clem Wixted said:
Greg,

How do you keep the tubes aligned?

Clem

Counter bored holes the diameter of the tubes in the upper and lower shelves. You asked for construction details ? :cool2:
 

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nice drawings. Do you do that level of detail preplaning on all your projects? And I thought I was pretty clever to drill some hole in shelf I put grinder on :D
 
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Pre production planning

gran said:
nice drawings. Do you do that level of detail preplaning on all your projects? And I thought I was pretty clever to drill some hole in shelf I put grinder on :D

Thanks! I didn't used to but now I do. My dad was an independent patternmaker and he was so skilled he could build furniture and stuff with just an idea in his head and a tape measure in one hand. I can do that ... but I make a LOT more mistakes than when I have something all planned out ahead of time. Also without a detailed set of drawings I waste an inordinate amount of time contemplating every step of measuring, cutting and assembling.

And FYI I use Microsoft Visio for my drawings. It's the only Microsoft program I've ever used that I find intuitive. And I'm a computer geek for a living :)
 
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Greg,

What size holes did you use for the tubes and accessories. What size PVC do you use?

Thanks for the detail.

Clem


pencheff said:
Counter bored holes the diameter of the tubes in the upper and lower shelves. You asked for construction details ? :cool2:
 
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Clem Wixted said:
What size holes did you use for the tubes and accessories. What size PVC do you use?

The PVC tubing is labeled 1 1/4" PVC 1120 SDR 26 ...etc. But I have no idea where the 1 1/4" applies. The inside diameter is 1 1/2" and the outside diameter is 1 21/32". I bought this stuff because the wall thickness is only 3/32".

The counter bored holes in which the tubes fit are 1 5/8" and I shaved the ends of the tubes down to fit. As I was chucking the 30th tube up on the lathe to shave off 1/32" of an inch I realized I should have just drilled the holes to 1 3/4" and let the tubes fit loose.

The through holes are 1 1/8". That size accomodates almost all my tools except for the biggest skew (drilled one hole bigger for that) and my smallest spindle gouge (made a little insert reducer for that).

Thanks for your interest Clem.
 

Sky

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At our local Woodcraft store the Mgr built a similar tool rack. Insead of cutting pvc pipe up (which is much cheaper), he bought pvc drain pipe with a extended rim around the top,1 1/4 size. Then drilled though plywood & set the pipe in. No bottom support shelf is needed. I can post picture if anyone wants to see. Lee Sky
 
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Greg,

Thanks for the information. I like your design and the more I study it the more I like it.

Are the holes for your MT2 accessories all 5/8"? What is the spacing?

Clem


pencheff said:
The through holes are 1 1/8". That size accomodates almost all my tools except for the biggest skew (drilled one hole bigger for that) and my smallest spindle gouge (made a little insert reducer for that).

Thanks for your interest Clem.
 
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Wheels?

Greg

Why not put some locking swivel casters on the bottom and have the rack where ever it is easiest to get to for you?

I ask this because, I made a rack with wheels and put it right behind me or beside me and it is easy to get to and have no trouble with tool selection as I can see the handles and the shafts of the tools for quick and easy ID.

Love the quality of your work and drawings

Thank you

Ray
 
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raisinsawdust said:
Why not put some locking swivel casters on the bottom and have the rack where ever it is easiest to get to for you?

I did think of that Ray, but I was afraid it would be top heavy and easy to tip over. The thing is only 7 1/2" wide. I'd have to put outriggers or something on it for going around corners.
 
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Clem Wixted said:
Are the holes for your MT2 accessories all 5/8"? What is the spacing?

I'm at work at the moment so I can't answer your question specifically. The accessory holes are just large enough to accomodate the widest part of the #2 Morse taper. The spacing... well, to be honest, I just winged that when I was drilling the holes. :rolleyes: I just made a nice symetrical pattern that would accomodate a variety of configuration of centers and stuff.

One thing I never mentioned: the hole for the knock out bar goes through both the top and middle shelves because the bar is longer than 12". I used a smaller diameter piece of PVC tubing for that one, just something that I had on hand. I used the biggest countersink I have to bevel the inside of the bottom hole so that when I drop in the knock out bar it sort of wiggles it's way down the drain.
 
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