Nic Trefry

[Nic Trefry]

Hi everyone!
I’m currently living in southern Sweden. I moved here around 9 years ago from Spokane, Washington were I was born and raised. I’ve been interested in wood turning for a long time but never had the opportunity to get into it. Last year I found an old lathe on a local auction site and ended up winning it for around $30. Thus the journey began. After getting a 3 phase outlet installed in the shop and building a stand for it, not to mention countless hours of YouTube and internet research, I spent all last winter playing around on it. The thing I love most about the hobby is the challenge and depth of knowledge associated with it. It’s apparent I can turn the rest of my life and never stop learning. We have nice mixed hardwood forests everywhere here. I’m always in the lookout for pieces to scavenge. In the summertime, I’m big into mountain biking, but when the weather gets nasty in the winter, turning has become my way to stay sane during the dark winter months. I still have not made anything I’m satisfied with. That’s fine with me. It’s the progression and learning I love most about turning. This year, I’m going to invest in a good sharpening system and learn that art. I have a decent stockpile of oak and elm I’m eager to start playing with. I turn mostly bowls, but started with spindle work. Someday, I think I would like to start making hand drums. Excited to be a part of the forum and look forward to continuing my learning here! Thank you!

 

[Chris Fairbanks]

Nic, Welcome to the forums! Please reach out if you need help with anything.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Welcome, Nic. This is a great source of information for all things woodturning.

Back in the late 90's early 2000's I did C++ training for a company in Linköping. That's pronounced "Linsherping" for us non-Swedes. That's something I learned in a hurry. I think I made about 7 trips to Sweden during those years.

Slut!

(I'll bet people think I'm cursing at you.)

 

[Paul Engel]

Welcome, Nic. This is a great source of information for all things woodturning.

Back in the late 90's early 2000's I did C++ training for a company in Linköping. That's pronounced "Linsherping" for us non-Swedes. That's something I learned in a hurry. I think I made about 7 trips to Sweden during those years.

Slut!

(I'll bet people think I'm cursing at you.)

Nice to see another geek in the forum. Although I dabbled in C++ and C#, my native language was VB.Net. I still love programming, but rarely find good use cases. Although I've written some Excel VBA recently to turn a Fusion 360 export into a CutList FX import, and a CutList FX export into a merge data file to print labels. Still wish I had more opps to program, though!

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

These days I am relegated to managing developers. We still have some C++, but it's all being replaced with C#.

 

[Nic Trefry]

Welcome, Nic. This is a great source of information for all things woodturning.

Back in the late 90's early 2000's I did C++ training for a company in Linköping. That's pronounced "Linsherping" for us non-Swedes. That's something I learned in a hurry. I think I made about 7 trips to Sweden during those years.

Slut!

(I'll bet people think I'm cursing at you.)

Very cool! I have been up there a few times, it’s nice! I enjoy living in Sweden but miss the states a lot. That never goes away. I get back every summer though so that helps. Living here in a small coastal town has been a wonderful place to raise my daughter. Makes me stuck here, but it could be worse!

 

[Brian Gustin]

Nice to see another geek in the forum. Although I dabbled in C++ and C#, my native language was VB.Net. I still love programming, but rarely find good use cases. Although I've written some Excel VBA recently to turn a Fusion 360 export into a CutList FX import, and a CutList FX export into a merge data file to print labels. Still wish I had more opps to program, though!

Plenty of ex-geeks lurking in these forums, I'm sure.. While not as involved in that sort of development, my area was more Linux Systems admin and networking and web development (LAMP) with perl, php, python, JS, etc. (Worked in the NAP of the Americas building in Miami where our 75+ rack servers and networking gear was hosted) so I still play around with Linux (and Im debating getting back into it as a hobby with a Raspberry PI to run a dedicated mini video player on loop to show how to use some of my woodwork items at farmer's markets or show my process at the lathe, for example, thinking it might boost sales and justify bit higher prices.. LOL! But then I could probably buy a cheapo portable video player for cheaper than building my own on a Raspberry..,. LOL.)

 

[John K Jordan]

It’s apparent I can turn the rest of my life and never stop learning. We have nice mixed hardwood forests everywhere here.

Hello Nic! You're right about the lifelong opportunities for learning. I started about 25 years ago and I am constantly learning something new. We have mixed hardwoods here too, lots of wood - I have a side hobby of processing log sections into turning blanks with a shop bandsaw and drying them - I've turned green but almost always turn dry wood. I also love teaching.

The good sharpening system you mention might be a huge help. The old saying is "if you can't sharpen you can't turn!" After trying many things over the years I've moved to three CBN wheels, two on "1/2 speed" bench grinders: one 60 grit for shaping tools, one 600 grit for sharping my skews and most other tools. I use a 1200 grit CBN wheel on a Tormek since I love the edge it gives me. Strop every tool until it's shaving sharp.

Like many, I use the Oneway Wolverine base and platform for many tools, the Varigrind jig for bowl gouges (never the Varigrind-2 (stay away!), and a Tormek jig for my spindle gouges.

I also love the Hunter Hercules tool, use it for many things. (I use the small one with the tiny cutters.)

Have fun here, ask questions if desired, post photos, experiences, and opinions! If there is a woodturning club anywhere near where you live, it can be a huge asset!

JKJ

 

[Nic Trefry]

Great info! Thanks so much! I’m planning on starting with a brand popular here called Axminster for my grinder. German brand I believe. I’m also buying a CBN wheel. I have not been able to find the wolverine one way system for sale here in Europe. Do you have experience sharpening without it? Should i bother trying or keep looking for something like it?

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Axminster is British, yes on a Wolverine, and a big welcome. Keep turning. Do they have turning groups or clubs where you are? If so, join one.

 

[John K Jordan]

I have not been able to find the wolverine one way system for sale here in Europe. Do you have experience sharpening without it? Should i bother trying or keep looking for something like it?

The Wolverine is versatile and the gouge jig is nice, but others will do the same. You can even make your own (below).
I sharpen many of my tools with just a platform, any platform will do although the wimpy ones that usually come with a bench grinder are not as useful as far as size, sturdiness, and quick/easily repeatable angles. The wolverine is good for this. Beside the big platform that comes with it I really like the Wolverine mini platform available as an accessory. I don't know if you have the same access to Amazon - that's where I've bought all mine.

Tools I sharpen with a platform: skews, parting tools, bedan, negative rake scrapers, point tools (my own "Wicked Point Tool" ), spindle roughing gouges.

I have sharpened bowl gouges by hand by resting my left hand on the platform, but using a jig like the Varigrind 1 is easier to for a consistent/repeatable grind. Some pro turners sharpen gouges by hand but it takes some practice. A good sharpening mentor can help a LOT!

I have sharpened spindle gouges with the wolverine (hard to get the shape I want by hand) but for me, but the Tormek jig is my favorite. I do a lot of spindle turning so I keep a half dozen identical Thompson 3/8" spindle gouges - when one gets dull I lay it aside; when they all get dull I set up the jig and sharpen them all at once. (Setting up to sharpen is more time consuming than sharpening so doing several at once saves time.)

As I mentioned, I strop the grinder burr off each freshly sharpened tool. For this I use the flat and profiled leather wheels on the Tormek infused with honing compound, but there are other ways. A piece of thin, smooth leather glued to a flat strip of wood with polishing/honing compound works well for most tool. I use a curved or tapered ceramic or diamond hone to touch up inside the flutes.



Also for honing this works well: resaw a piece of MDF on the bandsaw and rub ANY KIND of polishing/honing compound into the rough cut surface. I find this perfect for removing burrs on tools like the skew and touching up/polishing the cutting edge of some gouges. Just lay the ground bevel flat on the board, raise the handle the slightest bit, and pull back while applying pressure. You can tell it's taking off steel since it leaves black marks. Replenish as needed.

I came up with this idea years ago and use it often, especially to restore a shaving sharp edge to a skew chisel but will also work of other straight or the outside of curved-edge tools. I call it a "stropping board". Nice gift for a turner who loves sharp tools.



Another handy thing to touch up tools between sharpenings is a flat diamond hone. I've tried/used a lot and my all-time favorite is the blue EZE-Lap extra fine "paddle" hone. I get good control by holding it in my hand, fingers curved around the handle, and forefinger on the plastic piece over the hone. The honing plate on these is FAR better than some others I've found.



As for building a sharpening system, a friend developed one that can be built for about $10 in wood, screws, bolts, and threaded inserts. Can used on any bench grinder. It duplicates features of commercial sharpening systems but it's limited in adjustments and the sizes of some tools. It's based roughly on the Wolverine. Might be a great cheap way for someone to get started! We worked together to refine the document.

I made all the illustrations. In a bit of a rush...


In case anyone is interested, here's the PDF file:

https://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/_files/ugd/268d5d_1b7ce1f6ae5f4f1a8476924fe509d9de.pdf

JKJ

 

[Nic Trefry]

Axminster is British, yes on a Wolverine, and a big welcome. Keep turning. Do they have turning groups or clubs where you are? If so, join one.

I have not been able to find a local group yet but will keep looking. I bought an Axminster gouge set as a starter and have been pretty happy with it. Seems like good value / money.

 

[Nic Trefry]

The Wolverine is versatile and the gouge jig is nice, but others will do the same. You can even make your own (below).
I sharpen many of my tools with just a platform, any platform will do although the wimpy ones that usually come with a bench grinder are not as useful as far as size, sturdiness, and quick/easily repeatable angles. The wolverine is good for this. Beside the big platform that comes with it I really like the Wolverine mini platform available as an accessory. I don't know if you have the same access to Amazon - that's where I've bought all mine.

Tools I sharpen with a platform: skews, parting tools, bedan, negative rake scrapers, point tools (my own "Wicked Point Tool" ), spindle roughing gouges.

I have sharpened bowl gouges by hand by resting my left hand on the platform, but using a jig like the Varigrind 1 is easier to for a consistent/repeatable grind. Some pro turners sharpen gouges by hand but it takes some practice. A good sharpening mentor can help a LOT!

I have sharpened spindle gouges with the wolverine (hard to get the shape I want by hand) but for me, but the Tormek jig is my favorite. I do a lot of spindle turning so I keep a half dozen identical Thompson 3/8" spindle gouges - when one gets dull I lay it aside; when they all get dull I set up the jig and sharpen them all at once. (Setting up to sharpen is more time consuming than sharpening so doing several at once saves time.)

As I mentioned, I strop the grinder burr off each freshly sharpened tool. For this I use the flat and profiled leather wheels on the Tormek infused with honing compound, but there are other ways. A piece of thin, smooth leather glued to a flat strip of wood with polishing/honing compound works well for most tool. I use a curved or tapered ceramic or diamond hone to touch up inside the flutes.

View attachment 78099

Also for honing this works well: resaw a piece of MDF on the bandsaw and rub ANY KIND of polishing/honing compound into the rough cut surface. I find this perfect for removing burrs on tools like the skew and touching up/polishing the cutting edge of some gouges. Just lay the ground bevel flat on the board, raise the handle the slightest bit, and pull back while applying pressure. You can tell it's taking off steel since it leaves black marks. Replenish as needed.

I came up with this idea years ago and use it often, especially to restore a shaving sharp edge to a skew chisel but will also work of other straight or the outside of curved-edge tools. I call it a "stropping board". Nice gift for a turner who loves sharp tools.

View attachment 78096

Another handy thing to touch up tools between sharpenings is a flat diamond hone. I've tried/used a lot and my all-time favorite is the blue EZE-Lap extra fine "paddle" hone. I get good control by holding it in my hand, fingers curved around the handle, and forefinger on the plastic piece over the hone. The honing plate on these is FAR better than some others I've found.

View attachment 78097

As for building a sharpening system, a friend developed one that can be built for about $10 in wood, screws, bolts, and threaded inserts. Can used on any bench grinder. It duplicates features of commercial sharpening systems but it's limited in adjustments and the sizes of some tools. It's based roughly on the Wolverine. Might be a great cheap way for someone to get started! We worked together to refine the document.

I made all the illustrations. In a bit of a rush...

View attachment 78098
In case anyone is interested, here's the PDF file:

https://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/_files/ugd/268d5d_1b7ce1f6ae5f4f1a8476924fe509d9de.pdf

JKJ

I took screenshots of pretty much everything you wrote for quick future reference! Thanks!! I especially appreciate the illustration, will use that for sure at least in the short term. I have been using a set of diamond file cards. It became obvious to me very quickly that I need a better system! Very tedious with mediocre results. It did keep me turning last winter though as I was learning, however I probably would have learned a lot faster and had better results with properly sharpened tools.
We have Amazon over here, but the assortment is not the same. Each country has its own Amazon. I’ll try the German Amazon, maybe they have more wood turning equipment than the Swedish one. Again, very appreciative of the guidance!!

 

[John K Jordan]

! I especially appreciate the illustration, will use that for sure at least in the short term. I have been using a set of diamond file cards. It became obvious to me very quickly that I need a better system!...
We have Amazon over here, but the assortment is not the same. Each country has its own Amazon. ...

If you didn't see it, the link at the bottom of that message should have the complete document with more details.
https://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/_files/ugd/268d5d_1b7ce1f6ae5f4f1a8476924fe509d9de.pdf

I have lots of different diamond honing/sharpening things: the cards, large plates in different grits, and others, some I showed. I don't like the cards. For me, they are hard to control the exact angle, for example to follow the curve of the profile while holding against both the tip and heal of an existing gouge grind. I find the little paddle hones MUCH easier to control.

We found out about the different Amazons when getting something for an artist friend in Italy. On one visit I spread a bit map on the table so we could mark where we had visited, and pulled a Sharpie out of my back pack. The girl got so excited, saying "Sharpie!, Sharpie!". Turns out she had been looking for a long time for one. None of the stores, none of the art supply places, had them. (The art stores in northern Italy were about the size of a cigar shop - very limited supplies.) I pulled maybe 5-6 out of my backpack and gave them to her. For her birthday, we wanted to get some sets of colored Sharpies and have them delivered to her home - the only way through Amazon was to order from Amazon.it - my wife used a translation program to find the sets and make an order. It worked! She ordered the big multi-color Fine and the Extra Fine sets which were delivered within a week. Later when she visited us I took her to Walmart for some things - she was astounded. For example, she said if she shopped in Italy for one particular thing she needed she would be lucky if they had any. Our Walmart not only had a bunch to choose from but a good stock of all of them! When in the electronics section she even called her brother in Italy to tell him which USB thumb drives they had, took some home he couldn't find locally! A different life.

JKJ

 

[Nic Trefry]

If you didn't see it, the link at the bottom of that message should have the complete document with more details.
https://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/_files/ugd/268d5d_1b7ce1f6ae5f4f1a8476924fe509d9de.pdf

I have lots of different diamond honing/sharpening things: the cards, large plates in different grits, and others, some I showed. I don't like the cards. For me, they are hard to control the exact angle, for example to follow the curve of the profile while holding against both the tip and heal of an existing gouge grind. I find the little paddle hones MUCH easier to control.

We found out about the different Amazons when getting something for an artist friend in Italy. On one visit I spread a bit map on the table so we could mark where we had visited, and pulled a Sharpie out of my back pack. The girl got so excited, saying "Sharpie!, Sharpie!". Turns out she had been looking for a long time for one. None of the stores, none of the art supply places, had them. (The art stores in northern Italy were about the size of a cigar shop - very limited supplies.) I pulled maybe 5-6 out of my backpack and gave them to her. For her birthday, we wanted to get some sets of colored Sharpies and have them delivered to her home - the only way through Amazon was to order from Amazon.it - my wife used a translation program to find the sets and make an order. It worked! She ordered the big multi-color Fine and the Extra Fine sets which were delivered within a week. Later when she visited us I took her to Walmart for some things - she was astounded. For example, she said if she shopped in Italy for one particular thing she needed she would be lucky if they had any. Our Walmart not only had a bunch to choose from but a good stock of all of them! When in the electronics section she even called her brother in Italy to tell him which USB thumb drives they had, took some home he couldn't find locally! A different life.

JKJ

Yeah you have to be crafty to find what you’re looking for over here for sure! I do a lot of translating. lol I’m the marketing manger for Pure Fishing in Europe. We are the world’s largest fishing equipment manufacturer. Our headquarters is in the US. In the states, we sell to a couple major retailers (Walmart, bass pro shops, cabellas etc) here in Europe, we have over 10k individual retailers, it’s a nightmare. Different world for sure!
I’ve been doing some digging into a good system today. Thinking about buying the Axminster bench grinder and adding a CBN wheel. Thinking I won’t waste my time with an aluminum oxide wheel. I found a universal mount that will allow me to use Tormek jigs with the Axminster machine. Then I can add the SVS 50 Tormek multi jig. I did find an entire Tormek system; machine, jigs and all, but it’s around 1000 dollars. With this solution I’ll be all in for around 400. Think this will work? I attached photos of the products I’m looking at. I looked the link just now. Very clear and well made schematic. I may end up building that instead.

 

[John K Jordan]

I found a universal mount that will allow me to use Tormek jigs with the Axminster machine. Then I can add the SVS 50 Tormek multi jig.

I bought a spare bracket and made my own mount from wood to use the Tormek jig with the bench grinder before they came out with the universal mount, but the one they sell. (I shaped the wood oddly to allow clearance for the Wolverine clamp handle.



BTW, the CBN wheel is the fist one I had. Not knowing any better, I got the one with the 1/4" radius on the edges of the wheels. Since then, I only get them with the 90-deg corners. I use the corners to grind and sharpen custom tools. I gave the radiused-edged wheel to a school. BTW, I think the radiused edges were designed for sharpening small HSS hollowing bits that may be permanently mounted (brazed) to long tool shafts, possibly mounted in a handle. These can be hard to sharpen on the flat of the wheel since the long shaft must be swung through a wide arc in order to grind a radiused tip with swept-back wings. The radiused wheels will allow holding the shaft straight and sharpen the right and left sides of the tip on the left and right radiused edges of the wheel using more of a thrusting than swinging motion. For hollowing bits that can be removed from the tool shaft, there are other jigs available. For example, the late great other John Jordan, the famous one, sold one which works well, I use it. I think it's still available:

Sharpening Jig

Use the sharpening jig to sharpen the hooktool and straight cutters, as you would the Vari-grind attachment with the Wolverine Grinding Jig.

www.johnjordanwoodturning.com

The Tormek is expensive. I bought one with all the jigs when they first marketed it and I love it (love the slow speed, the variety of jigs, the leather stropping wheels. Sometimes you can find someone selling a used one. I bought a used one like that and had both set up at one time but recently gave the second one and the spare SVD-186 gouge jig to a friend.

I keep the remaining Tormek SVD-186 gouge jig set for spindle gouges and as mentioned, use the Varigrind for bowl gouges. However the primary angle on the SVD-186 can be changed as needed for different gouge grinds. I think I mentioned I keep a 1200 grit CBN wheel on the Tormek - quit using the water wheel years ago.

I used to use the SVS-50 for skews but sharpen skews and many other tools by hand now with the platform. Not difficult - as my piano teacher always said "everything's easy once you know how." I don't think the SVS-50 will do the swept-back wings of a fingernail grind on gouges, but I may be wrong. Never used it for that.

One thing to be aware of when putting CBN wheels on bench grinders. The nut on the grinder is not necessarily made with precision. Some have reported wobble in the wheel after the nut was tightened on some grinders. I, and others, always use a Spherical Washer set between the nut and the wheel. It consists of two washers with shallow nesting spherical surfaces that are self-adjusting to align the wheel perfectly as the nut is tightened (Not needed with conventional grinding wheels since the wheel is trued up when it's dressed.) Mount wheel first, the spherical washer set (concave then convex), a hardened flat washer, then the nut. All CBN wheels mounted this way ran perfectly true on various bench grinders. I bought spherical washer sets for the 5/8" grinder shafts from Woodturners Wonders but they may be available elsewhere.

A quick search finds them widely available, even on Amazon (USA). The hardened flat washer is probably not critical.

UF-SHARP Self-Aligning Spherical Washer Set, 5/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" Thick, for Bench Grinders with 5/8" Spindles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

UF-SHARP Self-Aligning Spherical Washer Set, 5/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" Thick, for Bench Grinders with 5/8" Spindles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

The Axminster grinder might be fine with a 5/8" shaft and 8" wheels. However, from what I see the speed is close to 3000 rpm. All turners I know are using what are known as "1/2 speed grinders", running at 1750 RPM instead of the normal 3500 in the US. (I assume the difference in speed is due to the 50HZ AC power vs the 60Hz in the US.) Maybe Axminster offers a 1/2 speed version. A woodturner in your area or elsewhere in your area could advise. I have zero experience with using CBN wheels for sharpening at high speed. All my bench grinders except for the one in little my welding shop are 1/2 speed. I don't know if the high speed will work well or be a problem. It may generate more heat and need a lighter touch. Fortunately HSS tools are difficult to damage with too much heat. Maybe someone who uses a "normal" speed grinder will give their experience.

Old pic of some sharpening stuff.


Note that when mounting a CBN wheel most people remove the guard. Unlike a conventional "stone" grinding wheel, a solid aluminum or steel wheel has approx zero chance of breaking and throwing pieces to kill you.

One more thing and I'll quit. Some years back I started making little plastic things to set the platform angle perfectly for my grinders. I use a bit of plexiglas, cut an approx shape on the bandsaw, then refine it at the grinder. Paint the backside white for visibility. I make these for skews, negative rake scrapers, and more.
This one is for setting to 90-deg to sharpen hand scrapers.


Note that what I say about wheels, grits, and sharpening is my opinion based on my own experience. Others may have different and better advice. Best thing if possible, as mentioned, is to find a mentor who is good at sharpening as well as turning. Most experienced turners are.

JKJ

 

[Nic Trefry]

I bought a spare bracket and made my own mount from wood to use the Tormek jig with the bench grinder before they came out with the universal mount, but the one they sell. (I shaped the wood oddly to allow clearance for the Wolverine clamp handle.

View attachment 78110

BTW, the CBN wheel is the fist one I had. Not knowing any better, I got the one with the 1/4" radius on the edges of the wheels. Since then, I only get them with the 90-deg corners. I use the corners to grind and sharpen custom tools. I gave the radiused-edged wheel to a school. BTW, I think the radiused edges were designed for sharpening small HSS hollowing bits that may be permanently mounted (brazed) to long tool shafts, possibly mounted in a handle. These can be hard to sharpen on the flat of the wheel since the long shaft must be swung through a wide arc in order to grind a radiused tip with swept-back wings. The radiused wheels will allow holding the shaft straight and sharpen the right and left sides of the tip on the left and right radiused edges of the wheel using more of a thrusting than swinging motion. For hollowing bits that can be removed from the tool shaft, there are other jigs available. For example, the late great other John Jordan, the famous one, sold one which works well, I use it. I think it's still available:

Sharpening Jig

Use the sharpening jig to sharpen the hooktool and straight cutters, as you would the Vari-grind attachment with the Wolverine Grinding Jig.

www.johnjordanwoodturning.com

The Tormek is expensive. I bought one with all the jigs when they first marketed it and I love it (love the slow speed, the variety of jigs, the leather stropping wheels. Sometimes you can find someone selling a used one. I bought a used one like that and had both set up at one time but recently gave the second one and the spare SVD-186 gouge jig to a friend.

I keep the remaining Tormek SVD-186 gouge jig set for spindle gouges and as mentioned, use the Varigrind for bowl gouges. However the primary angle on the SVD-186 can be changed as needed for different gouge grinds. I think I mentioned I keep a 1200 grit CBN wheel on the Tormek - quit using the water wheel years ago.

I used to use the SVS-50 for skews but sharpen skews and many other tools by hand now with the platform. Not difficult - as my piano teacher always said "everything's easy once you know how." I don't think the SVS-50 will do the swept-back wings of a fingernail grind on gouges, but I may be wrong. Never used it for that.

One thing to be aware of when putting CBN wheels on bench grinders. The nut on the grinder is not necessarily made with precision. Some have reported wobble in the wheel after the nut was tightened on some grinders. I, and others, always use a Spherical Washer set between the nut and the wheel. It consists of two washers with shallow nesting spherical surfaces that are self-adjusting to align the wheel perfectly as the nut is tightened (Not needed with conventional grinding wheels since the wheel is trued up when it's dressed.) Mount wheel first, the spherical washer set (concave then convex), a hardened flat washer, then the nut. All CBN wheels mounted this way ran perfectly true on various bench grinders. I bought spherical washer sets for the 5/8" grinder shafts from Woodturners Wonders but they may be available elsewhere.

A quick search finds them widely available, even on Amazon (USA). The hardened flat washer is probably not critical.

UF-SHARP Self-Aligning Spherical Washer Set, 5/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" Thick, for Bench Grinders with 5/8" Spindles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

UF-SHARP Self-Aligning Spherical Washer Set, 5/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" Thick, for Bench Grinders with 5/8" Spindles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

The Axminster grinder might be fine with a 5/8" shaft and 8" wheels. However, from what I see the speed is close to 3000 rpm. All turners I know are using what are known as "1/2 speed grinders", running at 1750 RPM instead of the normal 3500 in the US. (I assume the difference in speed is due to the 50HZ AC power vs the 60Hz in the US.) Maybe Axminster offers a 1/2 speed version. A woodturner in your area or elsewhere in your area could advise. I have zero experience with using CBN wheels for sharpening at high speed. All my bench grinders except for the one in little my welding shop are 1/2 speed. I don't know if the high speed will work well or be a problem. It may generate more heat and need a lighter touch. Fortunately HSS tools are difficult to damage with too much heat. Maybe someone who uses a "normal" speed grinder will give their experience.

Old pic of some sharpening stuff.
View attachment 78111

Note that when mounting a CBN wheel most people remove the guard. Unlike a conventional "stone" grinding wheel, a solid aluminum or steel wheel has approx zero chance of breaking and throwing pieces to kill you.

One more thing and I'll quit. Some years back I started making little plastic things to set the platform angle perfectly for my grinders. I use a bit of plexiglas, cut an approx shape on the bandsaw, then refine it at the grinder. Paint the backside white for visibility. I make these for skews, negative rake scrapers, and more.
This one is for setting to 90-deg to sharpen hand scrapers.
View attachment 78112 View attachment 78113

Note that what I say about wheels, grits, and sharpening is my opinion based on my own experience. Others may have different and better advice. Best thing if possible, as mentioned, is to find a mentor who is good at sharpening as well as turning. Most experienced turners are.

JKJ

I will take all of this on advisement. Going to keep saying thank you for sharing your knowledge. Thank you! You just can’t find this kind of expertise on YouTube. I truly understand now why they say sharpening is an art. I’m excited to start this part of my wood turning journey. I’ll keep you updated on how it get along in the coming months.
I’m going to keep looking for someone in my area who is an experienced turner. Language barrier can be an issue however. I speak fluent Swedish now. But the thing about fluency is it never means mastery. Only native speakers have that. For everyday life, I’m have zero issues. The issues come when I get into these specialized areas it becomes a language I don’t understand all over again. I think even native speaker experience this as well to some extent. I learned Swedish organically, by immersion which suits my needs fine. Learning this way (without further study) makes me somewhat illiterate, especially when it comes to writing. My team at work is spread out over the continent so English is our common communication language.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I think even native speaker experience this as well to some extent.

We do when you think about it - If all you're normally exposed to is everyday English, one might have some difficulty understanding specialty terms like "chatoyance" "Board Feet" .. or "Voltage drop" or "radiiculopathy" or so on but if you're actually working and learning in the respective trades (art, lumber, mechanical, medical) they seem like ordinary normal terms but to anyone else even if they recognize individual words or parts of words, they don't really "get" the context or meaning...

 

[Hubert Rieger]

Hello Nic,
We have a good source for turning supplies in East Germany, I think they also deliver to Sweden, it could be a supplement to Amazon.

www.drechslershop.de

Wir sind Ihr kompetenter Partner für Drechselbedarf und bieten Ihnen Produkte rund ums Drechseln, Schnitzen und Holzbearbeitung für Profis und Handwe…

drechslershop.de

 

[John K Jordan]

I’m going to keep looking for someone in my area who is an experienced turner. Language barrier can be an issue however.

I'm imagining much of turing, design, sharpening, sanding, finishing, etc., can be taught in person with gestures, motions, and demonstration instead of polished verbal interaction.

For example, we've spent a lot of time in Italy, mostly in the far north. but my aging brain has refused retain more than three Italian words. On one trip, a friend (who understands and speaks ALMOSST no English) took me up in the mountains to visit an incredibly productive woodworker he who spoke ZERO English! But between pointing, pictures, and examples we communicated clearly about woodturning. Most of his turning was with scrapers for furniture applications, large bed posts, threaded connections and such. He gave me a nice piece of olive to bring home. A good time was had by all.

I left him with a couple of the little spinning tops I always have in my pocket - he'd never seen woodtuning of that scale or detail or from or from those types of wood. I'm POSITIVE I could have provided productive turning lessons even without verbal communication, given a couple of additional tools and enough time.

BTW, I've mentioned this before but when I travel I always take woodturnings - finger tops, bottle stoppers, sometimes small bowls, platters, boxes, wands, etc - great conversation starters, for shop keepers, and thank you gifts for hosts. (This also makes extra space in the suitcase to bring things home!) No one we met had seen such things - while staying with friends, their friends dropped by meet us, but I think really to see the wooden things!



Bottle stoppers were a big hit. (My backpack was inspected by US airport security when they saw the strange metal shapes on the x-ray! The TSA guard was amazed but due to regulations couldn't accept one as a gift. )


JKJ

 

[Hubert Rieger]

very beautiful exhibits! How is the surface of the bottle stopper treated?

 

[Nic Trefry]

Hello Nic,
We have a good source for turning supplies in East Germany, I think they also deliver to Sweden, it could be a supplement to Amazon.

www.drechslershop.de

Wir sind Ihr kompetenter Partner für Drechselbedarf und bieten Ihnen Produkte rund ums Drechseln, Schnitzen und Holzbearbeitung für Profis und Handwe…

drechslershop.de

This is exactly what I have been looking for!! Thank you so much! It does indeed look like they deliver to Sweden.

 

[Nic Trefry]

I'm imagining much of turing, design, sharpening, sanding, finishing, etc., can be taught in person with gestures, motions, and demonstration instead of polished verbal interaction.

For example, we've spent a lot of time in Italy, mostly in the far north. but my aging brain has refused retain more than three Italian words. On one trip, a friend (who understands and speaks ALMOSST no English) took me up in the mountains to visit an incredibly productive woodworker he who spoke ZERO English! But between pointing, pictures, and examples we communicated clearly about woodturning. Most of his turning was with scrapers for furniture applications, large bed posts, threaded connections and such. He gave me a nice piece of olive to bring home. A good time was had by all.

I left him with a couple of the little spinning tops I always have in my pocket - he'd never seen woodtuning of that scale or detail or from or from those types of wood. I'm POSITIVE I could have provided productive turning lessons even without verbal communication, given a couple of additional tools and enough time.

BTW, I've mentioned this before but when I travel I always take woodturnings - finger tops, bottle stoppers, sometimes small bowls, platters, boxes, wands, etc - great conversation starters, for shop keepers, and thank you gifts for hosts. (This also makes extra space in the suitcase to bring things home!) No one we met had seen such things - while staying with friends, their friends dropped by meet us, but I think really to see the wooden things!

View attachment 78134 View attachment 78131

Bottle stoppers were a big hit. (My backpack was inspected by US airport security when they saw the strange metal shapes on the x-ray! The TSA guard was amazed but due to regulations couldn't accept one as a gift. )
View attachment 78135

JKJ

Very true. I’m continually inspired by what I see in this forum. Your prices are gorgeous.

 

[John K Jordan]

very beautiful exhibits! How is the surface of the bottle stopper treated?

Thank you. Good clean fun and very quick to make. I turn as cleanly as I can, sand to maybe 600 grit or finer, and usually use either multiple coats of "danish" oil or a single coat of TruOil. Can't use shellac since they might be exposed to alcohol. For some woods I simply buff the bare wood.

I've made zillions of these, very quick and easy. My Lovely Bride says "I want four more for presents tomorrow" and I say Yes Ma'am.

I use only Niles stainless steel or brass hardware and mandrels. Tools used: threaded mandrel, drill, tap, skew, spindle gouge, parting tool, small NRS. I've made them from nearly any wood but prefer hard, fine-grained wood - lots of exotic species are perfect. There are some shapes I like but experiment a lot. A few other examples, in case you are interested:





And the way I make these: block mounted in a chuck, drilled, threaded, turned, sanded, about to cut it off the lathe with a little saw.
This shows the shallow recess I like make to fit around the end of the hardware.


Someone who wanted to make things to sell could.

JKJ

 

[Nic Trefry]

Really like these. The forms are quite striking. I’m going to make some for sure for Christmas gifts. The insight at the end showing it on the lathe is perfect.

 

[Jim Reynolds]

There is at least one other forum member from Sweden,

Lennart Delin​

He appears to be a very knowledgeable turner and is fluent in English. Obviously you'll decide if you wish to contact him.

Good luck. I'm a big fan of Tormek sharpening systems, I have a T8 slow speed, and two low speed grinders one with CBN wheels and the other with AlOx wheels, that gets the least use.

 

[John K Jordan]

Really like these. The forms are quite striking. I’m going to make some for sure for Christmas gifts. The insight at the end showing it on the lathe is perfect.

Great! Any questions, just ask.

Ruth Niles designed, developed and sold the SS stopper hardware. Another company copied the idea and sells them. Although Ruth has retired and sold the business I still buy from Niles Bottle Stoppers. They have lots of options, some for wine/olive oil bottles, some of others types. And good service.

Niles Bottle Stoppers - Simply Superior Stainless Steel Bottle Stopper

Stainless steel bottle stopper, made in the USA. FDA approved. We also have bottle openers, stopper kits, meat tenderizer, coffee tampers

nilesbottlestoppers.com

I've known Ruth for a long time. Have the tee-shirt.

She has, or had, two types of mandrels for the lathe. The one I use threads on the 1-1/4" spindle of most full-sized lathes but they offer other sizes.
The mandrels come with a plastic washer. This helps the stopper blank from sticking to the mandrel after turning.

The other mandrel has a #2 morse taper. Works well but needs a drawbar, easily made with a length of 3/8"x16 allthread rod from Home Depot, etc. in the US, don't know about Sweden.
I make drawbars in that thread and 1/4"x20 for various uses. Don't really need a handle, can use just a washer and a nut.



Niles also sells a little kit with the right sized drill bit and tap to fit the threaded hardware.
They also have brass inserts to glue into wood threaded internally with 3/8"x16. However, these are not needed for bottle stoppers. I use them for things like meat tenderizers so the SS can be easily removed from the wood handle for cleaning:



There lots of instructions and tips on the Niles web site. A gallery too with zillions of bottle stoppers for ideas. I think I even have some pictures there but there are 17 pages of photos.

JKJ