I need a T-Handle wrench for a NOVA G3 chuck.
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Nova G3 Chuck T-Handle
- Thread starter Tom Albrecht
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Lance Mirrer
AKA "taxman"
Are you looking for the new SN2 allen key or the Original Nova geared (For SuperNova)? I have one of the geared.
The GEARED version, thanks
That was why I bought the other type. I figured the ability to just buy a replacement Allen key at any hardware store was a big plus. (of course, I've not lost one yet and got a new one with each body
)
Should've told me that years ago.
Note there are two different geared chuck keys for Nova chucks and they are not interchangeable. , One is for the G3 and one for the orig SN. Anyone who has an extra key would need to know which type you needed. Maybe measure the ID of the chuck body. The G3s are smaller. I gave the G3s away so I can't measure one. My SNs are about 3-7/8" dia.
The G3 uses a rigid key and the SN (not SN2) uses a gear with a pivot. I'd have to check if I have any spare geared keys that fit your specific chuck.
I bought some of four different types of Nova chucks. Before the new SN2 and Titan chucks were released that use the hex key, the only Nova choice was a geared key.
JKJ
The geared key for the Supernova is rare as hens teeth. I've spoke of this before. There were times in the past when they were available in New Zealand made from steel. I finally found some in England from a store going out of business but they wouldn't sell to America (If I remember correctly they had a dozen). I had to get a friend in England to buy one for me and then ship to me. Cost was more but good to have a back up. I've seen a few of the SN chucks sold at auction and told folks that without that key they are worthless but that never stopped them from paying a $100 without the key. If you manage to find an original key be sure to be careful as the gear end is not steel and is breakable. Another tip is that the first thing you should do when buying a SN2 is to cut the ball off the T key as they have a tendency to ruin the pinion and one thing you may not know is that the guts of the SN2 have had iterations. They shipped me pinions 3 different times before I got the right one for the ruined pinion. So the first thing I do is cut off that ball.
That's why I always check to make sure I have several spares before I give one away. I recently gave a friend some of the old SN chucks but have too many in the "old SN chuck" drawer.
Makes me think about trying to machine one from steel. I have a metal lathe and a rotary table for my mill - might need to grind a special cutter for the tooth profiles. Could be interesting, I have nothing else to do. (Ha!) If it works, I have a friend with a big CNC machine - maybe he would like to set up and make them for sale.
Cutting of the ball end of the SN2 keys is the first thing I do too. I understand it's designed that way to allow angling when clearance is tight, as when inside a bowl. Fortunately, if someone needed that there are easy alternatives.
Another thing I noticed is some people have a habit of WAY over-tightening a chuck - I bought two used orig SNs from a club member and he must have used a cheater bar and distorted - took a lot of work to rework the chuck body so the slides didn't bind. I don't think there is ever a need for a cheater bar even on big, heavy work - there are better ways.
JKJ
For the G3
Hello @Tom Albrecht,
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