NOVA Lite G3 Chuck Key

[Bill Alston]

Anyone seen a long chuck key sold for the G3? Someone asked me as the standard key is very awkward to use with some Cole Jaws.
And secondly, would the same key work on the Record Power SC3?

Edit: To be clear, both of these chucks use geared chuck keys. Not like the Supernova 2 for which there are any number of solutions if needed.
The ball ended versions can be used at an angle so a long key may not be necessary. Still, it’s nice to have the option. And I know some folks prefer a straight hex key.

Edit 2: Some Hex key options for the SN2.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Yes it’s the same key for both. I have a G3 and SC3 and the same key works on both. The same key also works with the Super Nova 2 and the SC4.

 

[john lucas]

Tthat's why I went with Vicmarc. The key is a standard metric Allen. You can use a ball end for the coke jaws but I simply made my own by welding a short Allen to a steel rod.

 

[John K Jordan]

Anyone seen a long chuck key sold for the G3? Someone asked me as the standard key is very awkward to use with some Cole Jaws.
And secondly, would the same key work on the Record Power SC3?

Edit: To be clear, both of these chucks use geared chuck keys. Not like the Supernova 2 for which there are any number of solutions if needed.
The ball ended versions can be used at an angle so a long key may not be necessary. Still, it’s nice to have the option. And I know some folks prefer a straight hex key.

I have never seen a long NOVA geared chuck key for the G3 (or the original SN)

But anyone with welding capability could cut the key shaft and weld in a rod for any length.
EDIT: I see Sir Lucas already posted about welding while I was typing!

BTW, for those not familiar:

• The G3 chuck key has a fixed pinion gear at the end
• The SN key has a pivioting pinion gear which I dislike a lot.
• The SN2 keys are hex, as you showed. The pinion gear is inside the chuck body. Long time ago some had trouble with damage from tightening the chuck with force while angling the key for clearance. I cut the ball end off the one that hangs by my lathe.

JKJ

 

[Bill Alston]

Thanks for the replies. I don’t really need a longer key for my SC3 as I can mount my Cole Jaws on my SN2. It would be handy to have a longer key though. I don’t have a welder, and I’d be a bit concerned about having the key welded as it appears to be a cast metal of some type?

 

[John K Jordan]

Thanks for the replies. I don’t really need a longer key for my SC3 as I can mount my Cole Jaws on my SN2. It would be handy to have a longer key though. I don’t have a welder, and I’d be a bit concerned about having the key welded as it appears to be a cast metal of some type?

Drop in sometime (after a long swim) and we'll make one for you. For the amount of force these are subjected to, I wouldn't be afraid of a welded or brazed connection.

Unless you use a cheater bar. (I bought some used chucks from a guy who must have used a cheater bar OR transformed into the Hulk at the lathe. I had to do some rework before I could use them.)

 

[Bill Alston]

Agreed about the force required John. I don’t like my SC3 chuck key very much, so if I can source a replacement I may have a play to see what can be done to improve (or ruin ) things!

Thanks for the offer BTW, but yes, it’s a long way to swim!

 

[Jay Peterson]

I solved the problem by knocking out the handle rod. Then I epoxied the end into a 9/16 socket. I used a 9/16 because it was the size that fit well and I had plenty of extra ones sitting in the drawer. Has worked great for years. Epoxy is more than secure enough to handle the relative little force used on my Cole jaws. Socket extension gives me enough length to use a ratchet to tighten.
Jay

 

[Bill Alston]

That’s a clever solution, thanks for posting.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have never seen a long NOVA geared chuck key for the G3 (or the original SN)

But anyone with welding capability could cut the key shaft and weld in a rod for any length.
EDIT: I see Sir Lucas already posted about welding while I was typing!

BTW, for those not familiar:

• The G3 chuck key has a fixed pinion gear at the end
• The SN key has a pivioting pinion gear which I dislike a lot.
• The SN2 keys are hex, as you showed. The pinion gear is inside the chuck body. Long time ago some had trouble with damage from tightening the chuck with force while angling the key for clearance. I cut the ball end off the one that hangs by my lathe.

JKJ

John the original Super Nova as you know has the swiveling, pivoting gear which was made out of some weak metal that broke easily. I have 2 Super Novas with original unbroken keys but had always been on the look out for someone to make one that was unbreakable. Found that Terry Scott in New Zealand at one time had some but was out. I then found a woodturning outfit in England had some but they were closing their store ans they would not ship to US (they had about a dozen or more). I got a friend in England to buy one for me and send it, was quite expensive that way but I got one. The thing being that not only was it made of steel but it was twice as long as the original made for the Super Nova. So to me that means there are about a dozen at least, somewhere in England. Also I would keep an eye on Terry's site in New Zealand (Timberly http://www.timberly.co.nz).

 

[John K Jordan]

John the original Super Nova as you know has the swiveling, pivoting gear which was made out of some weak metal that broke easily.

Thanks for the warning, that's a new one for me. I've never had or seen one of the pivoting gears break and I've used them for years. I'll warn some I've given SN chucks and keys to. I have occasionally seen a post, maybe on another forum, where someone was looking for one of those chuck keys, even mailed one to someone - maybe they had broken their key.

I thought I was down to just the two of the keys but yesterday I noticed a box on a high shelf that years ago I'd labeled "Spare Nova chuck keys" - likely some extras there.

I disliked the pivoting SN key since I sometimes found it difficult to insert properly the first time. I'd resort to peaking into the back of the chuck to align the tip of the key with the socket. But maybe I'm just uncoordinated or not too bright. For years I thought of either tack welding or putting some epoxy into the pivot to keep it straight but never got a round tuit.

JKJ