Older Rikon 18” bandsaw?

[Brian Kopp]

Hi folks,
A local tree service is going to be dropping off all their Bradford pear logs for me here where I live. He says he gets so much of it I’ll be sick of it but I really enjoy turning it.

My old 14” Powermatic only has 3/4 hp and 7” depth of cut and peters out on thick stuff, so I’ve been looking for bandsaws that have more power and 12” depth of cut. I considered a new Rikon or Jet but really they’re out of my price range, so I started looking at Facebook marketplace for used options.

Big enough units were still out of my price range until I ran across this 220v 18” Rikon 10-345 for $750. It’s about ten years old, has the 2hp 12.5amp motor and “works fine” according to the seller. They inherited it and have no use for it so they’re just trying to get rid of it.


I looked up this era 10-345 model and read several negative reviews of it, and most related to wobble and flutter from out of balance wheels or motor problems. I’m assuming the previous owner, a hobby woodworker, might have gotten it sorted out since new if there were any problems originally.

Does anyone have experience with this era of the Rikon 10-345? Any positive or negative experiences?

I’m tentatively scheduled to pick it up Wednesday.

 

[Richard Coers]

I had one, worked flawlessly. I sold it to a good friend when I got a Minimax. He brags about the Rikon too.

 

[Isaac Fisher]

Friend of mine had one and liked it. It’s not a top-shelf saw, but not also not junk. Barring some obvious broken or missing part (fence?), I wouldn’t hesitate at that price.

Take the table off for moving. The trunnions are a weak point and it’s really tempting to try and use the table as a handle.

 

[Brian Kopp]

Friend of mine had one and liked it. It’s not a top-shelf saw, but not also not junk. Barring some obvious broken or missing part (fence?), I wouldn’t hesitate at that price.

Take the table off for moving. The trunnions are a weak point and it’s really tempting to try and use the table as a handle.

VERY good advice, thanks!

I’m taking a UHaul motorcycle trailer (lower deck, good ramp, easier to load) and an appliance dolly to pick it up on Wednesday.

I’m just debating whether to transport it standing up or laying down. I’m pretty good with securing loads with ratchet straps but it’s six feet tall and I’m concerned about that high of a center of gravity on a trailer.

 

[Isaac Fisher]

If you can get it onto the trailer laying down on edge, column side down, not flat, you’ll be in the ideal position for transport. Possible with one helper, easier with two. Once it’s in position, have your helper(s) hold it while you bolt a wide piece of plywood to the base to prevent the saw rolling over onto its face. Then strap it down and you’re good to go.

 

[Brian Kopp]

If you can get it onto the trailer laying down on edge, column side down, not flat, you’ll be in the ideal position for transport. Possible with one helper, easier with two. Once it’s in position, have your helper(s) hold it while you bolt a wide piece of plywood to the base to prevent the saw rolling over onto its face. Then strap it down and you’re good to go.

I was thinking of leaving it strapped tight to the appliance dolly, with the column side towards the dolly, then laying the dolly itself down on the trailer. I’d use ratchet straps to hold everything in place on the trailer. (I’ve moved several heavy wood stoves, multiple motorcycles, my Nova wood lathe, heavy appliances etc by trailer so I’m getting fairly good at ratcheting stuff so it won’t move in any direction).

I can use the front bucket of my tractor to lift it back upright with the ring on top the bandsaw when I get home.

No way I’ll be able to lift it upright myself. (I’ve had multiple strokes and don’t have that kind of strength any more.)

 

[robo hippy]

It does have a ring on top for hoisting. When I moved my Laguna 16HD, I think I laid it on its side, can't remember. I would not leave it on a wheeled dolly. Mostly because the base would want to move with every start, stop, and turn. You should be able to lay it on its side for transport. No clue as to removing the top and if it is necessary or not. With a cheap saw, I would expect the trunnions to be minimal. With my Laguna, they are very sturdy. for tie downs, I would use straps or ropes, and loop them around the base and top, and/or through that eye on top. If you just strap across the top without the loop, it can slide in all directions. Can't trust any body on the road now days......

robo hippy

 

[Bruce Whitaker]

I just moved my Delta 20” from the two car garage to the new shop building with the saw strapped upright on the trailer. The distance is125 feet. I removed the table. Table trunions are not meant to support cast iron tables over bumpy roads or curbs, nor are they designed to be used as tie points. If you remove the table, you will not break the trunions. If you leave the table in place, all bets are off, whether you transport the saw upright or in its spine.

Transporting the saw strapped securely to an appliance handtruck the way you described will work well. Make sure that the handtruck cannot move once it is laid down. Pull it tight to the front of the trailer with straps and make it immobile.

Another thing to consider is how the motor is secured. If the saw is belt driven, make sure that the motor cannot bounce or move on its adjustments. For example, on some contractor style table saws, the belt is tensioned simply by the weight of the motor. Think about strapping the motor down. If it can easily be removed, do so. The saw without the motor (and table) will be considerably lighter. The motor and table detached from the saw are no sweat to move and secure for transport.

I did not mean to labor the obvious or prejudge anyone’s experience, but lots of straps and some planning over a cup of coffee ensure an injury free and break free move.

 

[Brian Kopp]

I just moved my Delta 20” from the two car garage to the new shop building with the saw strapped upright on the trailer. The distance is125 feet. I removed the table. Table trunions are not meant to support cast iron tables over bumpy roads or curbs, nor are they designed to be used as tie points. If you remove the table, you will not break the trunions. If you leave the table in place, all bets are off, whether you transport the saw upright or in its spine.

Transporting the saw strapped securely to an appliance handtruck the way you described will work well. Make sure that the handtruck cannot move once it is laid down. Pull it tight to the front of the trailer with straps and make it immobile.

Another thing to consider is how the motor is secured. If the saw is belt driven, make sure that the motor cannot bounce or move on its adjustments. For example, on some contractor style table saws, the belt is tensioned simply by the weight of the motor. Think about strapping the motor down. If it can easily be removed, do so. The saw without the motor (and table) will be considerably lighter. The motor and table detached from the saw are no sweat to move and secure for transport.

I did not mean to labor the obvious or prejudge anyone’s experience, but lots of straps and some planning over a cup of coffee ensure an injury free and break free move.

Thanks. I did get it home safely by laying it down on the dolly on its spine and strapping it tight with multiple ratchet straps. I was then able to lift it upright with a chain connected to the hook on top of the bandsaw with the front bucket of my tractor. While I had it partially upright a friend stabilized it while I drove the car forward, pulling the trailer out from under it.

It works great!

 

[Brian Kopp]

One issue I am having is that no adjustment of the rear knob changes the tracking of the bandsaw blade on the top wheel to bring it forward. The blades rides centered on the bottom wheel but at the back of the top wheel.

I put on new urethane tires when I got it home.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Guides, maybe? Have you tested with all 6 guides withdrawn?
Blade, maybe? With the blade off or loose confirm the adjustment mechanism is actually moving the upper wheel. Try a different blade, if you have one. If not, confirm your existing blade will lay flat on a flat floor.

Just two thoughts that come to mind.

 

[Bruce Whitaker]

Congrats, Brian. Something is out of adjustment. First thing to check is tracking with all guides moved away from the blade. Next, check that the tracking adjustment moves with no blade installed. As Mark said, check that the blade lies flat on a flat floor. When I restored my 19-teens Crescent 20” saw, I could not get the new blade to track. With the saw running, it moved back and forth about 1/8”. After much frustration, another blade made everything right with the world.
Enjoy the new saw.

 

[Brian Kopp]

Congrats, Brian. Something is out of adjustment. First thing to check is tracking with all guides moved away from the blade. Next, check that the tracking adjustment moves with no blade installed. As Mark said, check that the blade lies flat on a flat floor. When I restored my 19-teens Crescent 20” saw, I could not get the new blade to track. With the saw running, it moved back and forth about 1/8”. After much frustration, another blade made everything right with the world.
Enjoy the new saw.

Thanks Bruce. I did order a new blade and it should be here soon judging by my past experiences with Timber Wolf. Hopefully that will sort this out. The blade that came with the saw was obviously pretty old and it looks like it had the original Rikon rubber wheels. I’m hoping just with a new blade and the new good quality urethane tires I just put on this week the problem will resolve itself.

Even with these minor problems this saw cut like a hot knife through butter when I got it home and all reassembled and the proper 220v adapter for our 220v welder outlet, compared to my older 14” Powermatic bandsaw. I can see it’s going to serve my needs well.