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Oneway Coring Question

Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
7
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5
Location
Hershey, PA
I have trouble coring with a #2 knife on a cherry blank. I had the knife support column on the base off center to the right - knife bound and couldn’t complete the core. My question is should I have had the knife support column positioned closer to the center of the blank? Any suggestions would be appreciate.
thanks

Bill Henschke
 
This system, and the Woodcut, are both designed to cut with the post directly centered on the lathe bed. If you go a bit to either side, the blades will bind, more so on the Oneway than the Woodcut. The Oneway has more problems because of the support finger under it, which makes for a lot of metal inside the cut. If you are off to either side of the center when you start, you will have to open up the kerf a bit more, kind of like when coring with the McNaughton.

One of the 'round-2-it' projects for me is to see if I can get AZ carbide to make me some of their carbide tips without that dang point on it that is the standard Oneway cutter. As far as I am concerned, worst design ever. That is probably why the Hunter Core Pro is so popular.

robo hippy
 

Bill Henschke

JoinedNov 20, 2021Messages4Likes3LocationHershey, PA
I have trouble coring with a #2 knife on a cherry blank. I had the knife support column on the base off center to the right - knife bound and couldn’t complete the core. My question is should I have had the knife support column positioned closer to the center of the blank? Any suggestions would be appreciate.
thanks
 
I believe the coring system, (there is one other like oneway that has same requirements) needs the knife support to be dead center to the spindle center, which of course would mean center of blank. Variation left or right of that results in binding.
 
Hmm, was it another forum or this one? Anyway, the Oneway and Woodcut coring systems are designed so that they core with no binding if the pivot post is in the middle of the lathe bed. If you move a tiny bit to either side, not much of a problem. If you move an inch or 3, then the blade will bind in the cut. You have to open up the kerf to complete the core, 1 1/2 to 2 kerf widths. The Oneway, because of the support finger is worse about this than the Woodcut is.

robo hippy
 
My Number 2 cutter support arm was not made correctly at the factory, it bound in the kerf made by the cutter. They replaced it and the new one works great. Wrong angle of weld is what I was told.
 
Can't say that I agree with the middle of the bed thing. I went down to Kentucky and spent a couple days with Chris Ramsey. The main reason being I wanted to learn coring with the Oneway system because there is no one better at using it than Chris (yes we also turned cowboy hats). He once posted his method on WoW and I'll post that here in a format that everyone should be able to open it. If Oneway would have been smart they would have had Chris do a video to show how good and versatile the Oneway system is (too late now as a doctor messed up Chris' hand in surgery and he can no longer turn). The photo is of the 9 finished cores he cored while I was watching and learning.

9Cores.jpg
 

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Can't say that I agree with the middle of the bed thing. I went down to Kentucky and spent a couple days with Chris Ramsey. The main reason being I wanted to learn coring with the Oneway system because there is no one better at using it than Chris (yes we also turned cowboy hats). He once posted his method on WoW and I'll post that here in a format that everyone should be able to open it. If Oneway would have been smart they would have had Chris do a video to show how good and versatile the Oneway system is (too late now as a doctor messed up Chris' hand in surgery and he can no longer turn). The photo is of the 9 finished cores he cored while I was watching and learning.
Thank you - I’m sure that will help - thanks again
 
Hmm, was it another forum or this one? Anyway, the Oneway and Woodcut coring systems are designed so that they core with no binding if the pivot post is in the middle of the lathe bed. If you move a tiny bit to either side, not much of a problem. If you move an inch or 3, then the blade will bind in the cut. You have to open up the kerf to complete the core, 1 1/2 to 2 kerf widths. The Oneway, because of the support finger is worse about this than the Woodcut is.

robo hippy

It’s like deja vu all over again - Yogi Berra

The question had also been posted in the Woodturning Health and Safety forum. I merged it into this thread in the Woodturning Discussion Forum.
 
Hi all, my comment on experiencing rubbing while bowl coring. I typically experience this when I core bowls with more of a curved shape. I have been fortunate to spend time with Mike Mahoney, Colwin Way and a few other master turners and what I have learnt from them on this issue is to simply cut a wider channel. So when coring a curved bowl, cut in to about half way through the side grain then withdraw the cutter and then move the cutter slightly to the outside. This cuts a wider channel and provides clearance for the cutter and substantially minimizes cutter from rubbing . In my experience this process works. I hope this is useful for others.
 
This system, and the Woodcut, are both designed to cut with the post directly centered on the lathe bed. If you go a bit to either side, the blades will bind, more so on the Oneway than the Woodcut. The Oneway has more problems because of the support finger under it, which makes for a lot of metal inside the cut. If you are off to either side of the center when you start, you will have to open up the kerf a bit more, kind of like when coring with the McNaughton.

One of the 'round-2-it' projects for me is to see if I can get AZ carbide to make me some of their carbide tips without that dang point on it that is the standard Oneway cutter. As far as I am concerned, worst design ever. That is probably why the Hunter Core Pro is so popular.

robo hippy
Hey Robo. I've never had any trouble with my Easy Core #1 or #2 knives binding in any way. However, here recently I've tried coring some bowls that are probably beyond the capacity of the #2 knife--I'd say something like 13-14 inch diameter cores (15-17 inch diameter blanks). So, the base is ALL the way off center to the side of the lathe where I stand. On these two attempts, my #2 support arm is binding in the cut when I try to advance it. I should have widened the cut, but I struggled and got mad instead, haha. In your opinion (and anyone else with experience here), is this likely because I'm trying to stretch the capacity of the system? I'm thinking it would be solved by either widening the cut or getting a #3 knife. Would appreciate any advice. Thank you!
 
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Moving the centerpost side to side shouldnt cause binding as the track of the cut stays in line with the arc of the cutter. What will cause grief is if the vertical centering is off. Both the blade and the support are curved to match a spherical profile that needs to match the center of rotation. My limited experience with them is to be sure the tip of the cutter sits just a little above the centerline, as the torque of cutting will bow the blade a tiny bit down. Your experience may vary.
 
Thanks, @Gary Beasley. I think my centering is good. It’s acting as if the support arm and knife are different curves, if that makes sense. I’ve never had this happen before, and have never had any real catches, so I don’t think the blade is bent.
 
One thing Ive noticed when cutting off center is at the bottom of the cut you are cutting end grain as it rotates and the cutting is a lot tougher. That may have some bearing on your problem.
Yes, that is absolutely true. However, what i'm dealing with is the support arm actually binding in the cut/groove. It won't fit into the groove cut by the blade. Never had that happen before!
 
Some of the support fingers oneway sold, were miss machined. I had one and had to get it replaced. It bound up reguardless of what height the cutter was at
 
Yes, that is absolutely true. However, what i'm dealing with is the support arm actually binding in the cut/groove. It won't fit into the groove cut by the blade. Never had that happen before!
I take you've tried raising or lowering the position to be sure of whats happening? I would definitely look into what John Hicks is talking about then.
 
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